The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

6 bolt vs. 7 bolt [merged] 6bolt 7bolt 6-bolt 7-bolt six bolt seven bolt

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

asdfzxc

Probationary Member
9
1
Jul 7, 2002
All 6 bolt vs. 7 bolt threads are merged here.
How do I tell if I have a 6 bolt or a 7 bolt?
Will x part from a 6 bolt fit a 7 bolt?
Will x part from a 7 bolt fit a 6 bolt?
Which one is better?
How do I swap my x bolt for an x bolt?


What is the difference between 6-bolt and 7-bolt engines (aside from the obvious - 6 vs. 7 bolts connecting the flywheel :p )

Is there an advantage over either of the two engines?

Thanks,

-Mike
 
6 bolt is a favorite but the 7 bolt is just as capable. People will talk about the 7 bolt crank walking but it is over-rated, I think all the ones that were gonna crank walk already have and the ones that did are cause people didn't take care of there car like there suppose to. Like said before the 7 bolt is free so I'd go that route that way you'll have more money to build it up. Good luck :thumb:.
 
Id take the 7 boltand just get your self a 1g head with intake manifold, TB and use the 2g exhaust manifold and youre good.
 
Ok... i just wanted to start off right. If it was a little more, thats ok... just wanted to go with the better base. A couple hundred for a block to be completely rebuilt is nothing compaired to the money that can be spent on internals. Just wanted to do it right. :) Thanks guys
 
Hi! I have a few questions Im wondering about. I have a 7bolt crank that is screwed up right now. and i want to swap to a 6bolt crank. It is possible to use my 2g engine and use that crank with everything in my old engine? or do I need to change somethings or add?

Thanks
 
I have a 97' GSX with the stock 7 bolt motor. My question is if I replace my engine with a 6 bolt motor, will everything bolt up to the 6 bolt, such as transmission, turbo, IC, starter, alternator, ect. Also, my motor has a 7 bolt head, will that fit on a 6 bolt shortblock? And any recommended shops to buy the 6 bolt from and have it installed near NJ? Thanks
 
All the parts will bolt up, the 2g head will bolt up but the 1g head flows better I got my motor from Jackson Auto Mechine in MD i think they are a sponcor on here to I just did the 6 bolt swap in my 95
 
Hi

I noticed my P/S and Alt Belt are getting a little too old and there's this guy that will sell me new alt and p/s belt for cheap but they are for a 2g 7bolt and i have a 2g 6bolt will this belts fit in my car?

Im sorry for not searching deeper for this answer but the answers i got were for timing belt and i want to buy these belts before they're gone but i want to make sure they will fit too.


thanks!!
 
2g power steering pump belts are ribbed serpentine belts. 1g power steering pump belts are V belts. They are not the same.
[They're Multi-V belts. Serpentines use both the inside and the outside as drive surfaces.]
 
2g power steering pump belts are ribbed serpentine belts. 1g power steering pump belts are V belts. They are not the same.
[They're Multi-V belts. Serpentines use both the inside and the outside as drive surfaces.]


Bah, the auto parts stores refer to those as serpentines, but it's all good, thanks for the correction.
 
Well I finally made a stoopid and popped the motor. Looks like the FPR line came loose and just went lean on me. Cracked part of the spark plug electrode off and well....Thats all she wrote.

The discussion: Here we go.

I'm looking for a reliable 350-400whp weekend car and just normal boosting having fun on the street 250-300hp dd.. Should I do the 6 bolt swap using 1g pistons and the big rods, or should I rebuild the 7 bolt with Eagle rods, 2g pistons? I can get a used 7 bolt non crankwalked short block for free that needs a rebuild as well. Another question I have is. Since my 7 bolt crank made it 166k with no crankwalk, should I use the current crank in the other block if I were to rebuild the 7 bolt?

What are your guys opinions and suggestions?
 
Well, what's wrong with the block you have? Did it get screwed up? Personally, I would stick with the 7 bolt and do eagle rods and a decent piston ie wiseco ir something + ARP head bolts and be done with it.
 
I don't have that kind of money to go with the full shabang pistons and all... Kind of working on a budget and I know the weak part of the bottom end on the 2g is the rods. I guess it doesn't really matter now about that other block since this one is already done. I was going to build it outside of the car and wait for this one to finally let go and then swap them.
 
Well, what's wrong with the block you have? Did it get screwed up? Personally, I would stick with the 7 bolt and do eagle rods and a decent piston ie wiseco ir something + ARP head bolts and be done with it.

I'm thinking its def. going to have to be bored LOL.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
A stock 7-bolt block with properly supported bolt-ons and a good tune will reach your goals with no problem.

The whole key is in the supporting mods and the tune. If you want to just slap on a bunch of parts with a half-ass tune and run it, then a better bottom end will be required to handle the mistakes that are going along with that.
 
I'm wanting to put my 1g head on there with jam +1mm nitride valves yadda yadda yadda with some 280's and rev to 8500-9ish... The only problem I'm worried about is CW
 
I don't have that kind of money to go with the full shabang pistons and all...

Good pistons should be under $400. WAY less than it would cost to switch over to a 6 bolt. But as formontoya said, a stock 7 bolt block can handle the power with a proper tune. :thumb:
 
A stock 7-bolt block with properly supported bolt-ons and a good tune will reach your goals with no problem.

The whole key is in the supporting mods and the tune. If you want to just slap on a bunch of parts with a half-ass tune and run it, then a better bottom end will be required to handle the mistakes that are going along with that.

Agreed.

To OP, your goals, as mentioned by another member can be done on stock 7 bolt, with proper bolt on mods (maybe cams) and proper tuning. Even easier since you are FWD, if the dyno numbers is all you care about. Might be cheaper that way.

If your going to swap to a 6-bolt, or rebuild, might as well GO BIG or GO HOME... back to stock 7 bolt. :)
 
Crank-walk is highly over rated. I would worry more about having a proper tuning package/tune on the car.

Any motor can "crank-walk".



True so I guess a 7 bolt it is... Eagle rods, 2g pistons, arp hardware, 1g head, smim, cams, and possibly a little shot o nitrous :sneaky:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top