6 bolt swap problem (2g motor mount bracket)

[krummel21]

I have grinded the 2g motor mount so that it now fits on the 1g engine. The problem is that the tensioner bracket doesn't hit the tensioner. It hangs to far past the cylinder and it if it were on top it wouldn't hit the top of the tensioner and just slide off to the side instead of pressing down on it. Hope this makes since here are some picures of what I am talking about.

 

[TRBOBLU]

Are you using the 6 bolt tensioner or the 2g tensioner?

 

[dimon2000]

there is a 1g 6 bolt tensioner, 1g 7 bolt tensioner, and 2g 7 bolt tensioner. they are all different so make sure you have the right one. try to check the part number on it and call the dealer.

 

[redleader36]

that is a 2g tensioner arm. you have the correct tensioner, you just need to find a 6bolt tensioner arm.

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^This is a 2g tensioner and 2g tensioner arm. The arm looks like what you have installed. The tensioner, not so much.

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^This is a 1g tensioner and 1g tensioner arm. Notice the tensioner looks exactly like yours, but the arm is way different.\

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^The two arms compared. 2g on top, 1g on bottom

 

[redleader36]

update: Krummel says that he has a 1g arm and the arm will slip off the tensioner the same as the 2g arm. He also assures me that the washer for the arm pivot is installed correctly. He will try to post pictures of the same setup with a 1g arm.

 

[krummel21]

Yea as redleader has said we have tried both but are having the same problem. Here are some pictures of the 1g tensioner arm.

 

[redleader36]

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I don't think the arms or the tensioner are the problem. Here is a picture of a 1g engine with 1g tensioner and 2g arm. The shaft of the tensioner does not his the right spot on the arm in terms of left to right but it does hit the right spot in terms of front to back (relative to how this picture was taken)

I am thinking there is something wrong with how the tensioner is mounted or how the arm is mounted. Either the tensioner is too close to the block (is that really possible?) or the arm is mounted too far away from the block.

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It appears that the motor mount might still be hitting the water pump here. Maybe see if this or something else is interfering with the mount?

btw, here is the balance shaft removal technique i was talking about: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/192995-free-ballance-shaft-removal-pics.html
and
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/164907-free-balance-shaft-elimination.html

 

[krummel21]

Yea you are definately right, I went out and the bracket was digging into those point bad so it wasn't anywhere close to being flat. Thanks a lot for your help. I'm going to do the balance shaft elimination too just haven't decided if I'll do the free one or buy the kit.

 

[redleader36]

sounds good. if you do buy a kit, try to get one with a rubber plug for the front balance shaft hole instead of a steel plug. I have never had much luck with those steel plugs. or if you get a steel plug kit, just use the rubber cam plug off your 2g head.

 

[NN4S]

When I installed the 1G 7 bolt engine in my daughter's 2G Talon, this same problem reared it's ugly head. I wanted full functionality for the factory tooling to compress the tension compensator, so I fiddled around with it until it worked correctly. Even with grinding plenty of clearance to move the mount around, the alignment of the compressor screw/arm/compensator were not satisfactory. I tried a 1G 6 bolt arm, 1G 7 bolt arm, 2G 4G63 arm & a 2G 4G64 arm, but none of them had enough of a contact pad for my liking. What I ended up doing was grinding the interfering portion of the 2G arm off enough to clear the water pump and removed the excess length (most of the stock contact portion of the arm) once I had added enough material (by welding) to make the arm slightly past flush with the old contact surface. I ground a new contact surface even with the old one before eliminating it, just to be sure that I had enough height to adjust with. Obviously this isn't a solution that everyone would attempt, but it's the way I took care of the problem in this instance.

 

[redleader36]

i had actually thought about doing something like this when i did my 6bolt swap. I wanted to weld a contact onto the tens. arm to accept a tensioner tool (modified battery tie down hook) from the threaded hole in the 2g motor mount. Instead I used a metric hex head bolt about 1" long to go at an angle and bridge the gap between the tensioner tool and the contact on the 1g tensioner arm. Hopefully this picture can explain it better The hex head bolt is in red.

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[16G AWD]

So once you screw that tensioner tool in there the belt will loosen up? The reason i'm asking is because my intake cam is a tooth off and I just need the belt loosened enough to move it over.

 

[numlock666]

So once you screw that tensioner tool in there the belt will loosen up? The reason i'm asking is because my intake cam is a tooth off and I just need the belt loosened enough to move it over.

What he explained above is only for 6bolt in 2G cars. You still have your stock 7bolt. Yes this is Illeagle from the other forum. Just do what I said.

 

[redleader36]

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