6 bolt swap, magnus guide few questions

[justinh722]

I have a 95 gst that threw a rod through the block and I purchased a 6 bolt engine from a 1990 gsx. Will the flywheel from the all wheel drive tranny work in my fwd tranny? Also, it says to swap all the oil sensors and coolant sensors. I seen one coolant sensor on the 6 bolt and one other sensor that's on the temp housing that looks like a temp sensor but has 2 vacuum ports coming out of it. I swapped out the ISC and coils. It also says to use my starter plate from the 7 bolt but for some reason my motor didn't even have the starter plate.

I was also looking at a guide on tuners that said to swap the TPS's but the 2g tps is bigger round than the 1g. My 1g TPS has a harness coming out of it with the connector clipped on the end so I don't know what to do about that either. I currently have ecmlink to complete the install once i'm done. I was wondering what your guy's take would be on not running a timing belt cover. Also, the MDP sensor that was on the 2g, is it ok to just not use it or is it recommended to T-off at the brake booster? Also, I currently don't have a oil cooler for the 90 filter housing so would it be alright to just look the lines? I think that's all the questions I really have at the moment. Any takers? Thanks

 

[19Eclipse90]

I have a 95 gst that threw a rod through the block and I purchased a 6 bolt engine from a 1990 gsx. Will the flywheel from the all wheel drive tranny work in my fwd tranny?

No. You need a FWD turbo flywheel for a FWD turbo transmission, a FWD non-turbo flywheel for a FWD non-turbo transmission, or an AWD flywheel for an AWD transmission.

Also, it says to swap all the oil sensors and coolant sensors.

The oil sensors will be the same; you don't need to worry about those. Here's some diagrams you may find useful.

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You will need to swap the #2 sensor from the 2G thermostat housing to your 1G housing to ensure you have the proper sensor for the ECU.

I seen one coolant sensor on the 6 bolt and one other sensor that's on the temp housing that looks like a temp sensor but has 2 vacuum ports coming out of it.

As listed in the diagram above, it is a thermovalve . You won't need to connect it to anything in your 2G and you can consider removing it and plugging the hole by some other means if you like.

It also says to use my starter plate from the 7 bolt but for some reason my motor didn't even have the starter plate.

Find one. The plate is important for correct alignment and spacing of the starter. You need one that will match your FWD turbo transmission.

I was also looking at a guide on tuners that said to swap the TPS's but the 2g tps is bigger round than the 1g. My 1g TPS has a harness coming out of it with the connector clipped on the end so I don't know what to do about that either.

That's one of the many quirks of the 1990. The TPS is different from the 1991+ model years. I'd sacrifice and use the 2G throttle body or find a later model 1G unit.
RREs# Eclipse 2G Turbo 1G Throttle Body Swap
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-intake-exhaust/301466-1990-swap-91-94-throttle-body.html

I currently have ecmlink to complete the install once i'm done.

Good! You should be able to keep the ECU from checking for the "random misfire" that gives so many problems to many 1G-into-2G engine swappers.

I was wondering what your guy's take would be on not running a timing belt cover.

Don't run without one. That is a catastrophe waiting to happen. You are a million times better off using one, even though they can be a major PITA to remove and install.

Also, the MDP sensor that was on the 2g, is it ok to just not use it or is it recommended to T-off at the brake booster?

I believe with ECMlink you don't have to worry about the MDP sensor. I am not absolutely positive though. On my '96 without link, I tapped into the brake booster line for a signal.

Also, I currently don't have a oil cooler for the 90 filter housing so would it be alright to just loop the lines? I think that's all the questions I really have at the moment. Any takers? Thanks

Coolers are recommended, not required for the daily driver.

 

[miguelmcv]

Glad you answer all his questions.
Can't answer better then that.

 

[justinh722]

Wow, that has got to be the most informative answer I've ever received on a forum; ever. Those pics with the coolants sensors help a ton. I'll see if I can possibly find a FWD starter plate and flywheel, but around here it's easier said than done. No local junk yards within 2 hours have dsm's for some odd reason.

Other than those 2 things and slapping the timing belt on and bolting the turbo up, I'm basically ready to drop the beast in. I'll more than likely use my 2g throttle body for now. I really appreciate the help man. Thanks a lot.

 

[miguelmcv]

Wow, that has got to be the most informative answer I've ever received on a forum; ever. Those pics with the coolants sensors help a ton. I'll see if I can possibly find a FWD starter plate and flywheel, but around here it's easier said than done. No local junk yards within 2 hours have dsm's for some odd reason.

Other than those 2 things and slapping the timing belt on and bolting the turbo up, I'm basically ready to drop the beast in. I'll more than likely use my 2g throttle body for now. I really appreciate the help man. Thanks a lot.

Have Notes that, You need a fwd (6bOLT FLYWHEEL).
1g 6bolt flywheel and 2g 7bolt flywheel are different.

 

[justinh722]

Yea I realize my current 7 bolt flywheel won't work.

 

[19Eclipse90]

Glad to help. I might add to what I said earlier that the starter plate should preferably be from a 2G. A 1G plate will work and provide you with the correct spacing, but it won't completely cover the bell housing like a 2G plate would. It may or may not bother you, I just want to point that out in case you get a hold of a 1G plate and realize it isn't exactly like the 2G bellhousing.

 

[Turbo1976]

Great answer, very informative. I wish I had those pics when I was putting my GSX together. I got it all torn apart, and it was missing the water neck. I had a time figuring it all out.

 

[justinh722]

Yea I currently have the starter plate for the AWD 6bolt tranny but I'm guessing it won't work. Is there any harm in not running the flex plate at all? My 2g didn't have one on it or else I would have used it. I'm still trying to find me a flywheel quick. My garage isn't big enough for my car and the cops have already givin me a nuisance order saying I have 5 days to do something about it. That was last Monday. I saw in our local paper for the police log that I was phoned in on may 31st most likely by my bullshit neighbors.

 

[19Eclipse90]

The starter plate is not the flex plate. It's good to keep terminology consistent for folks who may find this thread while searching. The starter plate is essential because the spacing it provides help to correctly align the starter to the flywheel ring gear and the transmission/throw-out bearing to the clutch disk assembly.

Unless the donor car was an automatic AWD, which it won't be if it is a 1990, you need the FWD turbo starter plate. The FWD turbo flywheel is larger in diameter than the AWD flywheel; thus, the exact location of the starter is not the same on the two. The starter plates account for that. If you can't find one, you may be able to modify the plate you have. It's not something I really recommend but people have done it in similar situations before.

 

[justinh722]

I just went out to install the timing belt and the intake and exhaust cams stop turning at the same point. They both stop at the number 4 cylinder when the timing mark on the crank is lined up. Is that normal? Shouldn't it technically stop at both the number 1 and number 4 cylinders?

 

[19Eclipse90]

You really shouldn't try turning the cams very much at all when the block is at TDC (with the crank timing mark lined up). If you are trying to turn the cams to line up the dowel pins close to the 12 o'clock position without causing piston-to-valve contact, you have a couple options. First would be to pull the cams out and reinstall them with the dowels close to where they need to be. The other would be to rotate the crank where the pistons are all about mid-cylinder and turn the camshafts individually. I prefer the former method myself simply for peace of mind.