6-bolt Engine Rebuild w/68tha v3

[Tbenner05]

Looking for ideas. Tore down a 6 bolt and putting all new internals in it. Running a 68hta v3. HP goal 350 to 400

My ideas -
Manley forged pistons (is there a reason to upgrade to the 22mm pin) on Manley H beams, BSE kit, of course all the normal stuff girdle, main and head studs.
When moving to to the cylinder head I will up grade the springs and retainers and gen 3 lifters due to there age. I was looking at the GSC beehives or maybe there is something else to run. Maybe it is all personal preference.
What cams are best suited for this turbo as far as spool time and a idle that is not crazy erratic?

Anything else I should do when it is apart. Thanks for all the input.

 

[Canadian_CD9A]

GSC S1 or Kelford 264 for 350-400. Anyone who tells you GSC S2 or Kelford 272 is a donkey, all they are going to do is slow down response time.

 

[Tbenner05]

GSC S1 or Kelford 264 for 350-400. Anyone who tells you GSC S2 or Kelford 272 is a donkey, all they are going to do is slow down response time.

Thank you. I appreciate the info.

 

[jdxnc]

For your power goals, oem rods would be plenty but nothing wrong with going with Eagle or Manley H beam rods along with a forged piston with a 9:1 compression ratio would really perk it up with that turbo. 21mm pin is fine. No need for the girdle at that power level.

Kiggle Steel Street springs on a set of GSC S1 are my go-to for cars at that power level.

 

[Tbenner05]

For your power goals, oem rods would be plenty but nothing wrong with going with Eagle or Manley H beam rods along with a forged piston with a 9:1 compression ratio would really perk it up with that turbo. 21mm pin is fine. No need for the girdle at that power level.

Kiggle Steel Street springs on a set of GSC S1 are my go-to for cars at that power level.

Perfect thank you. I just figured since I was in there I would upgrade the pistons and rods. I guess another reason I was upgrading that I left out was that when I pulled it apart it was a non turbo block I would assume installed by chrysler. No vin on the block. I was hoping that the upgrade would help if there was ever a heat issue.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

9:1 6 bolt with a 2g head and Kelford 264s will pull hard to 8500.
I have a car with Kelford 264's, 272's and 280's. The 272s pull HARD. The 280R's come in late but rev forever. The 264s come in pretty early and also pull super!
Here is the 9:1 car on a pull.

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[Tbenner05]

9:1 6 bolt with a 2g head and Kelford 264s will pull hard to 8500.
I have a car with Kelford 264's, 272's and 280's. The 272s pull HARD. The 280R's come in late but rev forever. The 264s come in pretty early and also pull super!
Here is the 9:1 car on a pull.

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Thanks for the info. Until now I guess I never really thought about bumping the compression. I think I am going to look into that a little further.

 

[1cleangsx]

Holy Crap Marty

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

That's not the "fast" car Jeremy! It is MY motor!

 

[jdxnc]

Thanks for the info. Until now I guess I never really thought about bumping the compression. I think I am going to look into that a little further.

More static compression will make the car much snappier and responsive to boost, especially if you ever decide to run ethanol.

 

[curt-s]

Perfect thank you. I just figured since I was in there I would upgrade the pistons and rods. I guess another reason I was upgrading that I left out was that when I pulled it apart it was a non turbo block I would assume installed by chrysler. No vin on the block. I was hoping that the upgrade would help if there was ever a heat issue.

so that we don't have to go back through your entire post history, can you fill out a vehicle profile so we have an idea of what your car is?
There is a stamp location on the block. I assume by the above, you have a 1G NT which would make this a FWD as well. I don't know if they started stamping VINs on that spot back then, they did on the 2Gs. The location would be identical

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If you're doing cams, factor in adjustable cam gears and actually adjust them (properly).

With respect to responsiveness, I'm running 8.5:1 with a 68HTAv3 myself and BC272s straight up.. not a great situation. I definitely have increased lag and I'm still undecided on any real torquiness change between now and when I was 7.8:1. I used to be able to snap 0-20psi in under a second

I'm going to swap back to OEM cams this spring so that I have more of a 1:1 comparison with my previous engine which had a B16G on factory pistons/rods. That way, I can see if the 8.5:1 counteracts the "expected" slower spool of this turbo.

 

[Tbenner05]

so that we don't have to go back through your entire post history, can you fill out a vehicle profile so we have an idea of what your car is?
There is a stamp location on the block. I assume by the above, you have a 1G NT which would make this a FWD as well. I don't know if they started stamping VINs on that spot back then, they did on the 2Gs. The location would be identical

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

If you're doing cams, factor in adjustable cam gears and actually adjust them (properly).

With respect to responsiveness, I'm running 8.5:1 with a 68HTAv3 myself and BC272s straight up.. not a great situation. I definitely have increased lag and I'm still undecided on any real torquiness change between now and when I was 7.8:1. I used to be able to snap 0-20psi in under a second

I'm going to swap back to OEM cams this spring so that I have more of a 1:1 comparison with my previous engine which had a B16G on factory pistons/rods. That way, I can see if the 8.5:1 counteracts the "expected" slower spool of this turbo.

Sorry I will fill out the profile. It is a 92 6 bolt TSI. Some how over its lifetime someone put a NT block in it which is stamped R Dot. So it had to come from the dealer. Thanks for the input.

 

[turtleb00st]

i ran s1 and s2 on my evo 2 with a evo 3 16g. Max attack e85

The s2 don’t have the punch of the s1s…. But draggy showed a 2+mph gain in the 1/8th and 1+ mph in the 1/4. The car also feels faster especially up top despite the same airflow.

The s1’s flowed the same peak as the s2, earlier in the range, and for a longer span. Peak was the same

There is more to power from cams besides lb/min. A lot of the “those cams are too big” is nonsense. When you look at evo 8/9’s it’s ABSOLUTE nonsense. Diff head designs, diff turbo designs, but point stands

It’s kind of a dark magic that involves backpressure, how quick the valves open, scavenging effect ect ect.

 

[Tbenner05]

i ran s1 and s2 on my evo 2 with a evo 3 16g. Max attack e85

The s2 don’t have the punch of the s1s…. But draggy showed a 2+mph gain in the 1/8th and 1+ mph in the 1/4. The car also feels faster especially up top despite the same airflow.

The s1’s flowed the same peak as the s2, earlier in the range, and for a longer span. Peak was the same

There is more to power from cams besides lb/min. A lot of the “those cams are too big” is nonsense. When you look at evo 8/9’s it’s ABSOLUTE nonsense. Diff head designs, diff turbo designs, but point stands

It’s kind of a dark magic that involves backpressure, how quick the valves open, scavenging effect ect ect.

Yeah I was thinking of running the BC stage 2 which is the 268/272 combo to try and not give up to much on the bottom end. Thanks for in info