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6-bolt block/7-bolt head questions

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Coup D E'Tat

20+ Year Contributor
1,960
8
Dec 22, 2002
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
I would like to pick up a 6-bolt block, possibly build it, to keep ready in case of crankwalk.

I know about the head bolts being bigger, and that's not a problem. What I don't want to do is all of the drilling listed in RRE's method - http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2g6boltmotorinstall.htm.

So, for people running 2G heads on 1G 6-bolt blocks, what modifications did you make? What parts from each bottom end did you use? I'm just wondering if anyone can make it a little easier OMG
 
I just did a complete 1g swap. Much easier and the 1g head flows better anyhow.

My setup goes like this:

Ross Pistons - 8.5:1 Compression, .020 over
Eagle H-Beam Forged Rods
ARP Studs (Main, Rod, Head)
Topline bearings

Cometic Head Gasket

Si Nitrate Coated 1mm oversized valves
Crower valve springs
manley titanium retainers
1g stock cams
ported/polished head
4 angle valve job (bowl porting)
 
And you didn't modify the oil pump/block/water pump/any of the stuff listed in RRE's method?

If doing it like that takes away all of the modifications, I'll go ahead and get all 1G components.
 
Coup D E'Tat said:
And you didn't modify the oil pump/block/water pump/any of the stuff listed in RRE's method?

If doing it like that takes away all of the modifications, I'll go ahead and get all 1G components.

yea why not just swap the whole 6 bolt block and head? More power and probably easier to do ... The only thing you will need to do is cut the gear selector on the trans so the lower radiator hose won't rub against it and also the usual rewiring of the cas.
 
Because I have a friend that has a 6-bolt block that needs some stuff, and I figured I could get it cheap.

So, if I got a 6-bolt block/head, would I be able to bolt on everything from a 6-bolt (like the oil pump and that stuff) with no modification?
 
Coup D E'Tat said:
And you didn't modify the oil pump/block/water pump/any of the stuff listed in RRE's method?

If doing it like that takes away all of the modifications, I'll go ahead and get all 1G components.

no, you purchase the 1g front case/oil pump. All you need to do is simply cut the motor mount which a 5yr old can do :)

if your not far from NJ, you can even stop by... the motor is still out of the car.
 
Alright, so, a 1G front case and oil pump will bolt onto a 6-bolt block (obviously.) Cutting the motor mount won't be a problem. Everything else from a 2G works smoothly?

Just trying to make sure I'm getting this right.
 
Coup D E'Tat said:
Alright, so, a 1G front case and oil pump will bolt onto a 6-bolt block (obviously.) Cutting the motor mount won't be a problem. Everything else from a 2G works smoothly?

Just trying to make sure I'm getting this right.


i removed the balance shafts, the 1g front case comes with an oil pump i believe.. everything on the motor itself needs to be a 1g, except for the oil pan I believe and the side motor mount bracket.

like i said, if you want to see it in person, let me know..
 
I'm in western PA, so it'd be kind of difficult.

But thanks for offering.
 
Coup D E'Tat said:
I'm in western PA, so it'd be kind of difficult.

But thanks for offering.

no problem.. i live 30 minutes from allentown.. i didn't realize you lived in pittsburg
 
the RRE site says to use the 2g oil pan? I'm in the middle of a 6-bolt swap as well and am confused as to what the specifics are. Will the 1g oil pan fit on a 2g awd?

Also, every site I've seen said to use the 1g water pump, but I've heard both works for the oil pump.

What combination of parts works best for reliability and drivability??
 
Also, could I use an N/A block? It'd be fitted with new hardware, pistons, etc; I'm mainly talking about everything (oil pump, etc.) lining up the right way and all that.
 
not 100% sure, I believe you don't have a lot of oil passages in the block like a turbo one would..
 
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