4g63T makes weired noise at 2k rpm

[Siral3x]

OK...my DSM ran perfect for 3 months...no problems whatsoever.
This morning I start the car..fired right up, I give it some gas and at 2k rpm it started making a stupid "ZZZzzzing" loud noise...untill I hit 2,500rpm...then it goes away.
Also when the engine is cold i got like lifter ticking??? but i'm not sure...it goes away after it idles for 20 sec.
It's pretty messed up...my car is trying to talk with me
Anyway yeah..I have this 2 weired noises...they dissapear when the engine warms up.
I checked the timing belt, and tryed to detect and see if anything is rubbing on the belt or something..but it's stupid cause the noise goes in between 2k-2500rpm...then dissapears.
The timing belt is pretty new...I didn't change it a shop did.....my cam gears didn't seemed to be aligned properly...the timing marks on 1 didn't match with timing marks on the 2nd one...I thought that both timing marks are supposed to align with one another...mine looked to be way offf...
The other thing is if I drive the car for like 1h..the upper radiator hose is like burning hot and swolen like it's about to explode...the temp gauge works fine and it doesn't show overheating signs. My old radiator cap was spraying coolant sometimes, so I changed it...since then the hose gets swolen and about to blow .
Any sugestions?

 

[impuresoul2k3]

The lifter tick is part of owning a DSM The ticking can be solved by using the revised lifters. As for the other noise...not sure...

 

[No_Skillz]

Tell us more about the "Zzing" sound. Where is it coming from? Loud? The more info the better.

It sounds like you have lifter ticking, but that's easily fixed with a can of restore or revised lifters.

If your timing is way off you will have serious noticeable performance issues. Please list if any.

As for your radiator hose... what is your overflow bottle looking like? Make sure that's not F'ed up.

 

[Siral3x]

the ZZZing sound comes from the timing belt area..only at 2k rpm and till 2500rpm..under 2k or over 2500rpm it dissapears....as soon as the engine is warmed up I can't hear it anymore.
"noticeable performance issues"-not really but sometimes the turbo seems to spool like crazy and the engine is a little bit lazy.
Overflow bottle is half filled...i don't have coolant leaks but that swolen hose it's scary
Like I said the timing belt was changed...please give me a description of propper timing..in the Chilton it sais that the 2 cam sprockets timing marks are suppose to align, something like this "><" . The timing marks should align perfect every time you shut down the engine right? because mine for sure don't!

 

[jastermerrel]

Can't help on the noise but, no the timing marks will rarely (such a low low probability) ever land all lined up when the engine is stopped. When the motor stops...it just stops wherever. The marks should, however, all line up at somepoint within 6 (i think) full revolutions of the crank.

 

[No_Skillz]

I don't think you have timing problems. Change your oil and put in some restore to see if the noises go away.

As for your overflow bottle, what I meant to ask is: is it or any lines to/from it clogged? That's there to alleviate pressure.

 

[Siral3x]

No_Skillz thx...I didn't had time to make 100% sure but I think the coolant hose that goes from the thermostat to the overflowbottle is clogged because it was very very HOT , but I ran out of daylight so I'll chk it tomorrow.
I'm planing on chk the resistance for the spark plug wires....I know I'm supposed to get 25ohm resistance...what abt spark plugs for the 2G 4g63T engine??What is the gap service limit, and if they are bad what is a good spark plug and wires?

 

[Siral3x]

Nope...the hose was not cologged..it's doing the same thing again...

 

[No_Skillz]

Plugs need to be gapped to 0.28. We basically only have 1 option for plug applications for our cars. Look for NGK BPRE6s for anything from stock boost to +8psi. Anything above should switch to BPRE7s. As for wires, any decent set from a reputable vendor such as extremepsi will do. Go for 7.5mm+, doesn't hurt. I personally use MSD 8.5mm Super Conductors.

As for the coolant... put a towel over the hose next time so you don't burn your hand and try to squeeze it. If it is rock hard, then it is doing it because of pressure. If it is not, it is flexing because it's old and you should change it. Let us know.

 

[MrBoxx]

I would change the coolant hose regardless of anything. If it's been expanding and contracting on and off for some time, it might have developed some weak spots and could burst. Better to replace a $15 hose now than pay a tow truck to come out to the highway when it breaks.

Also, gap plugs to .028", not .28". But I'm just nit-picking. We all knew what you meant.

 

[No_Skillz]

Also, gap plugs to .028", not .28". But I'm just nit-picking. We all knew what you meant.

Good catch.

 

[Siral3x]

NGK Racing spark plug wires Iridium core 9mm, and NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs?? Are they decent?
Teh upper radiator hose YES it's rock hard...I'm going to replace it tomorrow!

 

[fastalon82]

Okay, I had the EXACT same ZZZing noise and it ended up being an idler pulley that loosened up and when it got hot it somewhat tightened itself up. And no your timingmarks shouldnt line up perfect. As long as the little round things by the bolts in the center of the cam gears point straight up, the timing marks will almost always be about a half tooth off. Dont know why, but ive done about 15 timing jobs on DSM's without any problems and they all came out this way.

 

[fastalon82]

NGK Racing spark plug wires Iridium core 9mm, and NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs?? Are they decent?
Teh upper radiator hose YES it's rock hard...I'm going to replace it tomorrow!

Dont waste your money, the best plugs for our cars are the NGK BPR7ES's hands down. and theyre about 2 bucks a piece.

 

[kruci99]

Seafoam the engine through a vaccum line and the tick would be gone then change the plugs and oil and you will be in good shape.
Concerning the other noise I think I have the same thing and will be doing a well overdue timebelt job soon with the recommended pulleys changed. I am scared right about now.

 

[fastalon82]

Seafoam the engine through a vaccum line and the tick would be gone

this works well for some people but the oil hole in the OEM lifter is just not big enough. Hince the reason they were revised twice. A long term fix is the 3rd revision lifters. I did the seafoam thing and it quieted them for about 2 months then it came back. I even removed them, disassembled them all and cleaned each one out and had them all soaked in solvent for a week and that stopped the tick for about 3 months. Switched to the 3rd revision lifters, never heard a peep again.

 

[Siral3x]

"Dont waste your money, the best plugs for our cars are the NGK BPR7ES's hands down. and theyre about 2 bucks a piece."

What kind of wires then??? I got Bosch right now..i want to change them also..
NGK BPR7ES's is good for the 90-99 turbo right??
Witch idler pulley I gotta chk??? Do i gotta tighten it up??or replace it..or what???

 

[MrBoxx]

If you're mostly stock or running less than 18 psi, use BPR6ES, not 7ES which is one heat range colder. For plugs: NGK, Magnacore, some people swear by Accel. Right now I'm using a set of Bosch plug wires and I'm not really happy with them. Every wire is about four inches too longer than the NGK's that were on it before, and that creates some organization issues. They're all jumbling up near the coils. I'll be changing them to Magnacores or NGKs shortly, though.

 

[Siral3x]

MrBoxx I was just gonna say that about Bosch wires.
If I would not have the timing cover ON, they will stick thru the Cam sprockets ...I hate them sooo bad, they are too long

 

[MrBoxx]

I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one with that problem! When I was putting them in, I SWORE my friend at Autozone must have given me the wrong wires. Oh well. Admittedly, they were cheap and available, and I needed new ones anyway. Remind me not to skimp on my car parts again.

 

[Siral3x]

All 4 wires are suppose to have a resistance of 22k Ohm..something around there , but with these I had 4 different readings the other day...none in spec
Then I'm like aaaa...ok...that's just sooo messed up...so I cheked the ignition coil..got great readings. So yeah...I gotta change them ASAP...I got Champion 3322 or something plugs...i pulled them out and regaped them till i get new ones, they all looked great, and my engine seems to be pretty healty...just normal carbon deposits.
Btw ...all spark plugs now have the tip that is removable???THAT is a real pain with the POS plugs that i got now..because the spark plug socket , the rubber inside catches on the tip and tend to unscrew the tips off

 

[No_Skillz]

Please work a bit on your grammar... you will find alot of people have issues with lack of structure and hard to read posts.

 

[fastalon82]

If you're mostly stock or running less than 18 psi, use BPR6ES, not 7ES which is one heat range colder.

Youre right. My bad.

 

[No_Skillz]

Just out of curiosity, what does that bulging radiator pipe look like when the engine is cold?

 

[Siral3x]

My bad...english is not my native language..sorry