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2G 4g63 compression test

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highrever

10+ Year Contributor
45
0
Mar 14, 2011
thompson, MB, Canada
Hi there i did a compression test on my 1996 eagle talon tsi, and i got 170psi across the board just wondering if this is good compression cause the standard is 178 so do i have to rebuild the motor or is good enough the car has 100,000
miles on it?
 
those are good numbers. 178 is just the normal, where the service limit is 133.

once you get down to 133 then its time for a rebuild. but 178 is great for a car with 100k on it
 
You have pearl numbers.

Question: I'm rolling with 160 160 150 125 I believe. Oil saturation on the water pump. I :pray: for just a headgasket to fix it. I am recently fighting overheating & have been for quite some time. I have HIGH reason to believe this is why my car is cutting out at high rpms, as in above 4k at 10-12 lbs from a 14b. did a boost leak test. Were doing swell holding 20 lbs. Plan on getting a dodge modded 1g later to hold more. But goal is 20 psi on this stock block. Low on cash & asking for suggestions. I guess I won't really know til I tear her down. But I have modded it from stock, so I feel like not much can go bad since it was sitting on a t25 for the longest :shhh:

I hope to just do this only:
ARP bolts
Headgasket

How hard are piston rings to replace or even valves? My buddy is in the honda scene & swears thats an issue from all the "detonation" or whatever is happening in my 4th cyl. But my car doesn't smoke, at least nothing noticeable to me. It is still untuned. I feel I should fix this before I buy dsmlite :ohdamn:

Hit me with the worst scenario to the lightest :aha:
 
you have pearl numbers.

Question: I'm rolling with 160 160 150 125 i believe. Oil saturation on the water pump. I :pray: For just a headgasket to fix it. I am recently fighting overheating & have been for quite some time. I have high reason to believe this is why my car is cutting out at high rpms, as in above 4k at 10-12 lbs from a 14b. Did a boost leak test. Were doing swell holding 20 lbs. Plan on getting a dodge modded 1g later to hold more. But goal is 20 psi on this stock block. Low on cash & asking for suggestions. I guess i won't really know til i tear her down. But i have modded it from stock, so i feel like not much can go bad since it was sitting on a t25 for the longest :shhh:

I hope to just do this only:
Arp bolts
headgasket

how hard are piston rings to replace or even valves? My buddy is in the honda scene & swears thats an issue from all the "detonation" or whatever is happening in my 4th cyl. But my car doesn't smoke, at least nothing noticeable to me. It is still untuned. I feel i should fix this before i buy dsmlite :ohdamn:

Hit me with the worst scenario to the lightest :aha:

you should post your own thread, stop thread jacking
 
One must wonder why the pressure is 170 on all 4 cylinders. May be due to the fact there is a faulty gauge or incorrect method of testing also. If you dont mind, how did you do the test? (not trying to be mean, just something seems odd, since every cylinder should have some variance) :coy:
 
One must wonder why the pressure is 170 on all 4 cylinders. May be due to the fact there is a faulty gauge or incorrect method of testing also. If you dont mind, how did you do the test? (not trying to be mean, just something seems odd, since every cylinder should have some variance) :coy:

This is true, those numbers are very odd 170 accross the board does not sound bad at all but it seems like there is a malfunction on either the gauge or the test wasnt done right. tryign to help you out here buddy, do the following, and if im wrong someone correct me thank you..

ok so lets start with the easiest and cheapest, go to a parts store in your area, i know now Autozone-Pepboys-Advance Auto parts, rent compression testers, so i would stop by any of the mention parts store or any that does the same and you should do it with a different one, try it, and for renting i know for a fact that pepboys you rent the tool, keep the renting receipt and the will return it for you, is it not a "BUY AND RETURN" is especifically a renting program they have, if you decide to keep the tool, go back tell them so they can get another rental, and you only get it for 1/2 of what the new cost is..

Good Luck
 
the tester was brand new right out of the box, so i dont what could be wrong with it idid the test and it was holding between 169 170 so idont know what i could of did wrong. i did the test the proper way pull the plug screw in the tester and crank the motor for about 3 to 7 seconds each cylinder is their a flaw in my proceeder but thats what i did.
 
the tester was brand new right out of the box, so i dont what could be wrong with it idid the test and it was holding between 169 170 so idont know what i could of did wrong. i did the test the proper way pull the plug screw in the tester and crank the motor for about 3 to 7 seconds each cylinder is their a flaw in my proceeder but thats what i did.

Just in case you are not sure what the proper way is.
How to do a Compression Test
 
you would make a new thread, because this is someone else's thread already. period LOL

the topic, subject of the matter is the exact same. He has ZERO compression issues. His "issue" was solved. We already vouched & confirmed that for him. He has no issue & I'm saving this thread from becoming a waste by posting my problem in it. So please tell me why I would make a new thread with the same exact question/info in it? Waste of thread space that would be. Ever heard of bandwidth?

Anybody who wants to offer suggestions? Apparently these kids got their post count from saying "make a new thread".
 
Actually its in the rules not to make other threads on the same topic. So he is correct by posting on this one about his compression readings. Read the rules guys.

I'm scared to check my compression. I'm at 128k and I hope its around 160psi across. We will find out soon.
 
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