420A 420a trans Turbo help

[aboomin]

Current full rebuild for fuel 450 lph fuel pump unsure on injectors maybe around 700-800 cc on Ms3x.
My struggle is with the transmission I want to keep reliability what is the best option that yall have gone with. I heard the stock transmission is guaranteed to blow and to throw a lsd into a base neon transmission and pray. But i want your opinions and what yall think as I can’t really find a neon transmission online and i have two eclipse trannys laying around. And if there is anyone that can build nvt-350 hit me up im located in the southeast willing to pay. Send clutch recommendations as well thanks!!

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

Theres's too many factors to give a definitive answer, but the NV-T350 is generally considered a sturdy transmission. What normally kills them is worn bearings and shaft play. If your transmission isn't excessively worn and had no previous issues, you may get away with a fresh set of axle seals, shifter seals, and input shaft bearing. If you had any grinding or other noises or gear popouts, it's time for an overhaul kit. All new bearings and synchronizers.

I once rebuilt a transmission, with all new seals and a couple of synchros. But it had excessive shaft play that I ignored, and it annihilated the snap rings on the shaft bearings and trashed the bearing covers. It wouldn't hold any gear. It ran great for 2 or 3 years after my partial rebuild but started jumping out of gears after a hard race. By then it was too late for a simple fix. I needed a full teardown and cleaning to get the metal shavings out of the case and had to replacement parts that I already did once.

I have copies upon copies of the rebuild manuals and a few rebuilt examples that are still holding up today. It's one of those things that you don't necessarily have to tear into if it's still healthy, but too much shaft play (normally from high mileage or taking tons of abuse) will absolutely destroy parts.

I definitely recommend an LSD. The stock diff is alright for a stock daily, but the spider gears will shear off if you're putting down serious power. I also ran into a traction issue when hard launching with the stock diff. But if you're replacing the diff, you already have the belhousing separated from the case. Which means go ahead and press in a new input shaft bearing and some new shifter seals. It may be a good idea to fully teardown the transmission for output shaft bearings and a thorough clean. This is all at your discrepancy and knowledge of condition though. If you had ANY existing problems, tackle everything at once. If no problems were present, do the basic maintenance and run that thing until it presents problems.

It's not like you can get billet or forged parts for an upgrade. You get stock parts or OE equivalent replacements. If they aren't worn, don't bother besides the obvious items. The diff is the only exception IMO.

 

[aboomin]

Theres's too many factors to give a definitive answer, but the NV-T350 is generally considered a sturdy transmission. What normally kills them is worn bearings and shaft play. If your transmission isn't excessively worn and had no previous issues, you may get away with a fresh set of axle seals, shifter seals, and input shaft bearing. If you had any grinding or other noises or gear popouts, it's time for an overhaul kit. All new bearings and synchronizers.

I once rebuilt a transmission, with all new seals and a couple of synchros. But it had excessive shaft play that I ignored, and it annihilated the snap rings on the shaft bearings and trashed the bearing covers. It wouldn't hold any gear. It ran great for 2 or 3 years after my partial rebuild but started jumping out of gears after a hard race. By then it was too late for a simple fix. I needed a full teardown and cleaning to get the metal shavings out of the case and had to replacement parts that I already did once.

I have copies upon copies of the rebuild manuals and a few rebuilt examples that are still holding up today. It's one of those things that you don't necessarily have to tear into if it's still healthy, but too much shaft play (normally from high mileage or taking tons of abuse) will absolutely destroy parts.

I definitely recommend an LSD. The stock diff is alright for a stock daily, but the spider gears will shear off if you're putting down serious power. I also ran into a traction issue when hard launching with the stock diff. But if you're replacing the diff, you already have the belhousing separated from the case. Which means go ahead and press in a new input shaft bearing and some new shifter seals. It may be a good idea to fully teardown the transmission for output shaft bearings and a thorough clean. This is all at your discrepancy and knowledge of condition though. If you had ANY existing problems, tackle everything at once. If no problems were present, do the basic maintenance and run that thing until it presents problems.

It's not like you can get billet or forged parts for an upgrade. You get stock parts or OE equivalent replacements. If they aren't worn, don't bother besides the obvious items. The diff is the only exception IMO.

Theres's too many factors to give a definitive answer, but the NV-T350 is generally considered a sturdy transmission. What normally kills them is worn bearings and shaft play. If your transmission isn't excessively worn and had no previous issues, you may get away with a fresh set of axle seals, shifter seals, and input shaft bearing. If you had any grinding or other noises or gear popouts, it's time for an overhaul kit. All new bearings and synchronizers.

I once rebuilt a transmission, with all new seals and a couple of synchros. But it had excessive shaft play that I ignored, and it annihilated the snap rings on the shaft bearings and trashed the bearing covers. It wouldn't hold any gear. It ran great for 2 or 3 years after my partial rebuild but started jumping out of gears after a hard race. By then it was too late for a simple fix. I needed a full teardown and cleaning to get the metal shavings out of the case and had to replacement parts that I already did once.

I have copies upon copies of the rebuild manuals and a few rebuilt examples that are still holding up today. It's one of those things that you don't necessarily have to tear into if it's still healthy, but too much shaft play (normally from high mileage or taking tons of abuse) will absolutely destroy parts.

I definitely recommend an LSD. The stock diff is alright for a stock daily, but the spider gears will shear off if you're putting down serious power. I also ran into a traction issue when hard launching with the stock diff. But if you're replacing the diff, you already have the belhousing separated from the case. Which means go ahead and press in a new input shaft bearing and some new shifter seals. It may be a good idea to fully teardown the transmission for output shaft bearings and a thorough clean. This is all at your discrepancy and knowledge of condition though. If you had ANY existing problems, tackle everything at once. If no problems were present, do the basic maintenance and run that thing until it presents problems.

It's not like you can get billet or forged parts for an upgrade. You get stock parts or OE equivalent replacements. If they aren't worn, don't bother besides the obvious items. The diff is the only exception IMO.

thanks for the insight, looks like i have a full teardown coming soon rather play it safe. Especially because the trans thats going in I have no clue on mileage or if its a metal soup inside until I open it up