4000 rpm idle on startup

[hgould521]

i just put the motor in my 95 gs-t and got it all wired up. I cranked and even with a new battery it cranks really hard. Once it does fire it is idling at 4000 rpm and wont budge accept for if you hit the throttle it will rev up but wont drop down.. Then very suddenly shuts off no stumble just boom done. and a ground wire got so hot that it melted. What do i do?

 

[crazyquik22023]

Do you have the coolant lines disconnected from the throttle body? Also do you have a CEL on?

 

[spawn87]

did you push the throttle plate with your hand close to see if theres a difference could be your wires are to tight or biss screww or vacum line not connected/connected right. youre gana have to go on a process of elimination.

have your alt tested only reason your ground would get hot is if theres a short somewhere. but i would start with alt first.

what kind of build was it and is everything hooked back up like stock?

 

[hgould521]

alternator is testing fine. and this is my first dsm and i have no manual or the ability to download one on this ancient computer. I have no idea what the cel is or what coolant lines go to the throttle body. The biss screw is all the way loosened but the flange still doesnt touch it and the throttle cable is not binding up anywhere. as of this morning all im getting is cranking. I have fuel and spark i dont understand.

oh and i found the short or at least one short, and went back through all of the cacuum lines and they are all hooked up.

sorry i meant vaccuum lines

 

[razrman8]

alternator is testing fine. and this is my first dsm and i have no manual or the ability to download one on this ancient computer. I have no idea what the cel is or what coolant lines go to the throttle body. The biss screw is all the way loosened but the flange still doesnt touch it and the throttle cable is not binding up anywhere. as of this morning all im getting is cranking. I have fuel and spark i dont understand.

oh and i found the short or at least one short, and went back through all of the cacuum lines and they are all hooked up.

sorry i meant vaccuum lines

This is a problem, the BISS screw should not just be adjusted all the way out, but properly adjusted.

 

[hgould521]

what would i do to properly adjust it and i got the flange to close fully by adjusting the other side of the throttle cable, but now i have no spark. I just changed the coil pack and plug wires, still no spark. possible relay, or fusible link? How would i test the relay and which would i check and where would i check for the fusible link. I have power to one of the three wires on the coil plug its the blue one and as long as the key is on it stays constant should either of the other two remain hot? or become hot?

checked all fusible links under hood none are popped. could i have mabey burnt a wire up before i found the short. If so where might it be or where should i begin to look? Also if another wire out of the three does remain hot or become hot can i just link off of something else or.....GRRRRR! I hate electrical.

would test pt cas and cps but do not know exactly which ones they are or where they are located. I would do more searching on here but like i said this computer is ancient and takes 20 minutes just to get here to check for responses

 

[razrman8]

How to properly adjust BISS screw

Credits to Steve.

"The correct way to adjust on a 2G is to use the MUTT (dealership scan tool) to lock the ISC to it's default position and then adjust the BISS for a 750 RPM idle. I don't know if any OBD II dataloggers/scan tools allow monitoring ISC steps other than DSMLink but if they did you could adjust the BISS until the steps were 10-20. Without either of these you can't correctly adjust it becasue of the interaction between the ECU trying to hold a 750 idle using the ISC and the BISS."

 

[hgould521]

called a friend and had him help me. cas, cps, and pt all are getting the power that they need. Coil pack still getting power to the 3rd pin (blue w/ stripe) any ideas

sorry its the black w/ white stripe on the coil plug that has power. all relays are good too