The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support ExtremePSI

400$ What's the best bang for buck?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

14.5 drift

Banned Member
950
0
Feb 25, 2004
o.c., California
fell into some money, around 400 bucks, so what do I need to buy to hit 10's? J/K guys, but really what is the best bang for buck here. The car needs plugs/cables but other than that the car runs great, aside from a warped rotor. I have a 96 gsx auto with low milage, any suggestions?
 
^^^^^^

Agree.

What have you researched for a setup as of yet?
Theres so many ways to go. IMO With $400 id get some basic mods. (K&N Boost gauge intakepipe etc.)

Devon
:talon:
 
Well, how many miles are on the car. You could put that money towards the costly timing belt install. Or I would go with what Red98GS said.
 
About 60k. Spoke with my mechanic and he said not to worry about it for another year. As for maintenance, I already ordered some plugs and wires, and I am turning my rotor this week end on a friends lathe so thats all taken care of.

One thing I was wondering about, how does a mbc work? Do you just turn the nob then stab the throttle and see what it reads on your gauge. or is there markings on the controller that tell you how much boost your letting in? Also from all my investigations on cai it seems like a worthless mod. While the existing box takes actual cool air from the wheel well, a cold air intake takes hot air from the engine bay. Might have better flow, certainly not a cooler charge. Also I am afraid I will drive through a puddle and fill my cylenders full of water, seen it happen before, it wasn't pretty.
 
No, mbc's dont' have markings... like you said, it's fine adjustment, you punch it and see... heh. As for the CAI, they really don't make a CAI for our cars unless it's custom (someone might make one that goes where the stock IC is) but an intake filter like a K&N or greddy or apexi or injen yeild great results on our cars. Yes the intake is a little hotter, but not much, and the ammount of air an aftermarket intake flows far outweighs the intake temperature of a few degrees.
 
Originally posted by 14.5 drift
About 60k. Spoke with my mechanic and he said not to worry about it for another year.

He'll get more money from fixing the engine after the belt breaks, than he will for replacing the belt.
 
Originally posted by 14.5 drift
About 60k. Spoke with my mechanic and he said not to worry about it for another year. As for maintenance, I already ordered some plugs and wires, and I am turning my rotor this week end on a friends lathe so thats all taken care of.

One thing I was wondering about, how does a mbc work? Do you just turn the nob then stab the throttle and see what it reads on your gauge. or is there markings on the controller that tell you how much boost your letting in? Also from all my investigations on cai it seems like a worthless mod. While the existing box takes actual cool air from the wheel well, a cold air intake takes hot air from the engine bay. Might have better flow, certainly not a cooler charge. Also I am afraid I will drive through a puddle and fill my cylenders full of water, seen it happen before, it wasn't pretty.

Let me spell this out for you:

T I M I N G B E L T .

They are supposed to be replace at least every 60k miles. You're better off doing it more often than that.

Sounds like your mechanic is trying to ass#### you out of a few grand. Don't let him.
 
he's actually a close family friend (####ing my mom). He checked the timing, investigated the condition of the belt, said every thing looked fine to him and to bring it back in a few months.

hero, were you talking about just the filters, or the intake tube and every thing? Is there some place where I could see a actual gains on a dyno that show an intake is worth the money, or if it would be better spent some place else. Also surprised no one has suggested an exhaust, I was under the impression that was the single most restrictive component on our dsm's.

Any one know how much boost can efficiently come from a t25? I know that my current setup all stock falls flat after 5.5k, will turning up the boost make it even worse, or better? Sorry for 50 questions here guys.
 
he's actually a close family friend (####ing my mom).


Hahaha you got jokes baby

Devon:talon:
 
I don't give a shit if its Luke ####ing Skywalker telling you not to.

Do it anyways.
 
Originally posted by 14.5 drift
Also from all my investigations on cai it seems like a worthless mod. While the existing box takes actual cool air from the wheel well, a cold air intake takes hot air from the engine bay. Might have better flow, certainly not a cooler charge.

:confused:

That makes no sense. A cold air intake is by definition an intake that draws in cold/ambient air. Read up on this first:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=114115&highlight=cold+air+intake

Maintainance first is the best advice so far. Running some Berryman fuel system cleaner is a good thing to do also. New rotors and pads are a good thing also. The best bang for your buck is a 14b upgrade. Cheap and very effective.

-Groomz
 
Originally posted by 14.5 drift

Any one know how much boost can efficiently come from a t25? I know that my current setup all stock falls flat after 5.5k, will turning up the boost make it even worse, or better?

Its rated for 250cfm's @ 15psi.

Its not worth it with a T25. Its max efficiency compressor wise is at 15psi. The biggest drawback to the T25 is its turbine housing, which can't flow enough to keep the exhaust manifold pressure down. Turning up the boost on a T25 is only going to increase your exhaust manifold pressure and make the turbo work harder than it should, which equates to blowing hot air. 14b is the way to go.

-Groomz
 
$400?

First:

Oil Change
Tranny Fluid
Differential Fluid
Coolant
Replace coolant lines
remove / replace emissions lines
replace shifter bushings
Other random little stuff

THEN:

MBC
Good Filter
Intake Pipe
Exhaust
14b
Upper IC Pipe + 1g BOV

You can't buy all of that, but you can buy most. Do the stuff at the top first, and any other things the car might need. Then work you way down the mods list.

I'm not going to touch the timing belt thing. If it breaks, it sucks. That's all I can say. If it looks ok it might be ok, but there is no guarantee.
 
Originally posted by 14.5 drift
Also from all my investigations on cai it seems like a worthless mod. While the existing box takes actual cool air from the wheel well, a cold air intake takes hot air from the engine bay. Might have better flow, certainly not a cooler charge.

its certainly not worthless, as dynos everywhere record absurd (10hp) gains from just doing a k&n cone.

the stock airbox on all dsms are horribly restrictive to baffle sound
 
Originally posted by greyforestgst
its certainly not worthless, as dynos everywhere record absurd (10hp) gains from just doing a k&n cone.

the stock airbox on all dsms are horribly restrictive to baffle sound

Very true

Cut your box to the support clips and make your own airbox wall to keep warm air out. I even sliced a rectangle in the dummy section of my front light for airflow. you can find that mod here http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=105839

IT WORKS;)

Devon:talon:
 
Yeah, Devon, you can't cut the 2G box in the same way.

I agree with the maintainance side here - if you're close to 60k, it's time for the timing belt, and with that you should change the balance shaft belt, crank pulley, all the other belts, etc... It's a big job to do right, but will save your head and your wallet. Plus, you're supposed to update a lot of other things at the 60k mile mark as well. Consult your manual.

Once you take care of all maintainance - regular full sythetic oil changes with a nice oil filter, fuel filter, tranny oil, diff oil, transfer case oil, power steering fluid, coolant, boost leak test, etc, etc, and your car is running perfectly......

Go for a nice cone intake, UICP, and BOV that doesn't leak or vent over 12psi. You'll get a nice change in sound and performance with just those two mods, since you'll be running a couple more psi than stock. Buying a boost gauge is a smart move.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top