4 problems, need some suggestions...

[LunarEclips]

To start off, here is what im working with as far as problems for my 95 awd talon:

1. Oil leak/ Loss of oil pressure
2. Boost leak cant find where it is
3. Car runs rich
4. ABS Light flickers on and off when it wants to

Heres what ive done so far in sequence to each problem:

1. Found a leak at the castle screw and fixed it, now it leaks slightly from different locations near the oil pan and possibly by the oil feed line which is tapped off of the head. Crushed washers may not be sealing the fitting correctly at the head? Oil pressure is at 50 when cold but goes to 0 when engine is warm. Oil is 5w-30. BSE kit was installed and both bearings were installed and clocked to cover oil passages. Stubby was also installed.

2. Car has a boost leak and i cant find out where. I fixed a major one at the TB and now there is one which sounds like its in the back by the vacuum lines near the EGR but cant seem to find out where its coming from. I used soapy water and nothing. BISS screw is fine, Vacuum lines are all hooked up. Pressure wont stay more than 7.5psi because of this leak.

3. Pulled the plugs and they are all black and smell like fuel which leads me to think its running too rich. The exhaust also throws smoke under boost. Probably due to running too rich. So im leaning towards bad o2 sensor or coolant temp sensor? Plugs are brand new and so are wires. I bought a brand new crank sensor, so that is out of the question.

4. ABS light comes on intermittenly. Sometimes i hit a bump and it goes off. But for the most part it stays on throughout driving.


Any help would be much appreciated. I need this thing running good!

 

[92AWDHX40]

wiring issues light, blt keep trying it, running rich, get a wideband, and a logger tuning device, any cels

oil leak may be others out there, i would keep looking seems you need to do spend some more time fixing one issue at a time, things take time and patience. oil pressure how low, how is the oil pump , when was it last changed?

 

[LunarEclips]

oil pump new, new gaskets. No cels.

update: did some work on it, so far i corrected most of the boost leaks. Boost controller had a leak which i ended up running my vacuum line direct to the wastegate for time being. There is still one by the TB which i came to conclusion is the throttle body shaft seal. Also, i had a leak at the oil cap (which was really weird since i just bought it a few weeks ago). Oil leak is coming from the oil pan drain plug so i bought a new one and need to install that, but that seems kinda minor to me, and is probably not the source of my bad oil pressure. Im STILL having problems finding the main source of the oil leak which is causing my oil pressure to be so low at idle when warm. I get great oil pressure when cold. But at idle when fully warmed up, i get 0. Ive also come to conclusion that im getting rod knock due to this problem which is causing my excessive fuel issue as well. So frustrated....

 

[luv2rallye]

For abs read its codes: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-reading-2g-abs-diagnostic-trouble-codes.html

 

[bryanwheat]

Did you actually block off both holes for the front shaft or only one because you said in the other thread that only one had to be turned in the front and one in the rear. Are you going off the stock gauge? Why such thin oil?

 

[LunarEclips]

i blocked off the oil balance shaft and the opposite side silent shaft. And the thin oil i had brand new left around. Im switching to 10w-30. Im getting my readings from the stock gauge and an aftermarket "glowshift" gauge. Car reads 0 psi when warm and 50 psi when cold. Goes to about 75psi when still cold @ about 5k rpms.

For abs read its codes: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-reading-2g-abs-diagnostic-trouble-codes.html

thank you i needed that. Im going to tackle the ABS after i fix this oil light. Much appreciated though.

 

[bryanwheat]

i blocked off the oil balance shaft and the opposite side silent shaft. And the thin oil i had brand new left around. Im switching to 10w-30. Im getting my readings from the stock gauge and an aftermarket "glowshift" gauge. Car reads 0 psi when warm and 50 psi when cold. Goes to about 75psi when still cold @ about 5k rpms.



thank you i needed that. Im going to tackle the ABS after i fix this oil light. Much appreciated though.

So are you saying that you only blocked off one of the front balance shaft oil holes. There are 2 in the front shaft, and 0 in the rear to block off. If you only turned one bearing in the front and the one in the rear than you still have one in the front that is bleeding off your pressure.

 

[airmail96]

My gauge goes close to 0-5psi when warmed up and that is on dino 10w40 goes up to about 20 or so with light throttle and 75-80 full tilt.

 

[LunarEclips]

So are you saying that you only blocked off one of the front balance shaft oil holes. There are 2 in the front shaft, and 0 in the rear to block off. If you only turned one bearing in the front and the one in the rear than you still have one in the front that is bleeding off your pressure.

Not true. Here is the kit and where they mention one in the front and one in the rear:

Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit Install

My gauge goes close to 0-5psi when warmed up and that is on dino 10w40 goes up to about 20 or so with light throttle and 75-80 full tilt.

from what ive been researching, normal oil pressure for 4g63 motors is 15psi at idle. Someone correct me if im wrong?


And i think ive figured out my problem. I believe since i got my oil feed line from the head of the motor for my turbo that i need to run a restrictor? Would this cause my low pressure? Im running a -4an feed with factory drain line. If i need a restrictor, what size restrictor would i be using for my 14b? I read about too much oil pressure to the turbo causes oil seal failure. Which in turn causes smoke on startup (which is another syntom i have).

On the plus side of things, i believe i fixed ALL of my oil leaks. Later this week ill be fixing the rest of my boost leaks and then moving on to diagnosing the ABS light situation.

 

[bryanwheat]

Not true. Here is the kit and where they mention one in the front and one in the rear:

Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit Install

There is no question as to whether or not what i said is true. It is 100 percent true. There are NO oil holes in the block for the rear balance shaft. I will bet you 100 dollars cash money. The only oil holes are for the front balance shaft. If you didn't block off both front holes than you have a problem. I've got a few blocks lying around that i could gladly take pictures of for you. The facts are the facts, you DO NOT have to turn the balance shaft bearing in the rear of the block, only the 2 in the front.

This is DIRECTLY from the link that you posted.

Here is a view of the engine. The rear balance shaft bearing is shown circled here. This bearing can be left alone. The front shaft bearings, however, need to be removed and replaced with the blockoff bearings included in the kit. These blockoff bearings are necessary because the stock bearings have oiling holes for the balance shaft, and if you don't block them off, you will lose oil pressure.

And here is the picture

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I will say it one more time, if you didn't turn both front bearings than you are loosing oil pressure from one. That is the way it is.

 

[LunarEclips]

i know for a fact that i replaced the correct bearings. I spent a while scoping the holes out with a mirror. And like i said, im getting oil pressure at Idle during cold start. It is only until the car warms up that i have bad oil pressure. So with this said, it is impossible for me to not have blocked the proper bearing holes as it would show no oil pressure from the start up on cold start.

So on to the next results:

I found a leak at the valve cover gasket so i replaced the entire gasket set. I also chnged the oil filter and oil to 10w-30 as well as changed the drain plug. I cleaned up the motor and still semi low oil pressure. On the stock oil pressure gauge, what readings should it be showing?

 

[LunarEclips]

Status update: No more oil leaks. Oil pressure is still low. Im going to try putting in the oil feed line restrictor to see if it helps. We'll know soon enough if that was the problem.

Still have to find out why the car is running rich but i need to resolve the oil problem first. Boost leaks are almost done with. Still need to fix the damn throttle body shaft seal which only the dealership has apparently.

 

[jacobgsx]

the low oil pressure sounds like a oil pump. they are aluminum cases with steal gears and when
abused the steal gears eat away at the case. this happened to my eclipse i kept getting a costant oil leak at front the seal behind the oil pump gear.i also had no oil pressure at idle only when the engine was hot. and a restrictor might increase oil pressure but not enough for what your thinking.

 

[luv2rallye]

Still need to fix the damn throttle body shaft seal which only the dealership has apparently.

I doubt the dealer will have them let alone know what you're even talking about (they sell the entire TB only): Get the good ones here (I just did): Throttle Body Shaft Seal Kit: 91-99 DSM & EVO 8/9 : JNZ Tuning