3 door sleeper

[Tyeler18]

Just got this guy back from justin. Still waiting on my cerakote guy to finish the exhaust housing and manifold so unfortunately I can't install it yet. I'm hoping it'll be done early this week still.

 

[Tyeler18]

Got a call late in the afternoon today that my exhaust parts were done so I ran over and grabbed them. Unfortunately I got home late and had a bunch of misc stuff to do while assembling so I didn't get to install the turbo but it's fully assembled and ready to go.

I didn't realize this was a stock 2g manifold when I sent it off for coating so as I was assembling it I realized it still had the ring in the outlet. Spent 40 minutes knocking that down with the carbide since I had it apart.



Since this was meant to be a cheap thrown together project when I started it I never put OEM bolts and washers in for the turbo. The HDR bolts occasionally would come loose and blow the manifold to turbo gasket out which was getting annoying. Sad to believe this is almost $150 worth of hardware and gasket here but thats the only way these things stay together properly.



The plan was to do an external gate setup. I didn't realize I had an internal gate housing until I was dropping it off for coating. Just to make things quick/simple for right now I decided to throw an internal gate on so I didn't get the o2 housing coated since I'll build an external setup not too far down the road. Fully assembled, hopefully I can get home sooner tomorrow and get this thing in the car and back up and running.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I'm sure externally gated is better in every way, but on a stock 2G o2 housing, my internally gated Green will make whatever I want with minimal creep. The only issue is if I try to go above 30lbs it'll blow the flapper open. Kinda hard to run above 30 unless it's cold outside or I basically run 95% duty cycle. So you should be good unless you want to run 30+ lbs.

 

[Tyeler18]

I'm sure externally gated is better in every way, but on a stock 2G o2 housing, my internally gated Green will make whatever I want with minimal creep. The only issue is if I try to go above 30lbs it'll blow the flapper open. Kinda hard to run above 30 unless it's cold outside or I basically run 95% duty cycle. So you should be good unless you want to run 30+ lbs.

I plan on maxing this thing out, so definitely going to want more than 30. I have enough preload in the gate to be able to get there but I have an external setup I just need to fab an o2 housing to fit, which will likely get done before this thing sees full boost anyways

 

[Tyeler18]

Turbo is in, another day of getting out late and another day of random hurdles to tackle to get this in. I found out the manifold wont go in with the turbo bolted to it and the radiator installed like you can on a 1g/2g. I didn't feel like pulling the radiator so I just unbolted both and dropped them in separately. This internal gate sticks out so far that my condenser fan doesn't fit. Not a huge ordeal because it's a cheap china fan which I planned on swapping out anyways with either a pusher spal or a slim puller spal. It's cold out and the A/C isn't going to be used right now so I'll deal with that before its hot as shit out again.



I noticed a few months back when I would turn the wheel would just kind of follow whatever direction I had turned, couldn't find anything loose shaking down the front end and everything was new so I didn't expect to find anything but while steering the car on the ground you could see the rack would just move in whatever direction you were steering. the rack bushings were completely disintegrated and the rack with a load on it would just slide back and forth. I found the OE bushings out of japan but wanted poly if I could get them and gambled on some evo 3/mirage chassis superpro bushings which fit great. Hopefully no more sloppy rack bushings.



I need to extend my LICP to reach the compressor cover so I'll knock that out tomorrow and I ordered the wrong coupler to go to my new 4" carbon intake pipe. Hopefully I can weld the LICP tomorrow and I'll just run it with no filter until the coupler gets here friday. It was dark as hell out by the time I was done so I tried to get a picture with my flashlight. Didn't work out as well, everything looks great in here otherwise.

 

[Tyeler18]

Got the first tank of e85 (well e63) in it and turned the boost up. Had it turned up to 20lbs on 91 and now 27 on ethanol and the fp green feels great! Dialing in the VE in the upper boost and slowly working in some timing but even a 3* advance on e85 from the 91 is a drastic improvement in power so im excited to see what this does with some more boost.



Got home from work today and decided to put the ARP extended studs in my buddy bought me for christmas. I plan to put a 10-15mm spacer up front to flush the front end back out so my buddy that I bought the TE's from bought me extended studs. Got too dark to do the rears but the fronts are done.





Also finally addressed a very annoying oil leak that I was just being way too lazy to fix. The stupid CAS O-ring for whatever reason never gets replaced. The amount of these that come in just siliconed back in is weird for a $4 o-ring. It's been slowly dripping down the head onto the trans but has been getting progressively worse and I finally pulled it and swapped a new o-ring in. Pressure washed the engine bay back out but it was too dark to see anything, it's clean now though.

 

[Tyeler18]

Killed my first saturn alternator in this thing the other day at work. I've been running these problem free for years and killed one on the way home from work the other day. I know theyre not too found of the 8k shifts but after pulling it out it was full of grime and the rear bearing had gone to shit so I'm not even sure if the RPM killed it, my screamer pipe, all the grime in it, or the fact that its a $46 china special. Grabbed a new one from O'reillys and swapped it on and it's good to go again.

While I was in there I had ordered a couple of Atoto A5 double dins to upgrade some cars. These are full wireless carplay and are android based so I can run the haltech connect app on it and have a full gauge display along with a modern radio. I've had a sony xplode headunit haphazardly mounted in it since I bought it. Speakers sounded bad, no bluetooth, FM barely worked. This is way nicer to have in here. The van bezel is a super oddball size so I'm going to 3D print a filler plate to cover the gap in the bezel, but I'm very happy with this upgrade.

 

[Tyeler18]

First major failure in this thing and it was my own stupid fault. While making some fuel corrections for ethanol I accidentally pulled 4 full points of AFR instead of .4. I've been driving it like this for almost 3 weeks and I didn't even bother to check a log because it's been running great. Had 3 people in the car and 2 back to back 1-3 pulls it left a nice smoke show behind me at the top of 3rd. Pulled the log from the haltech and was surprised to find the target AFR for most of the pull was 14.5 and the actual AFR wasn't far off. 30lbs of boost and 14.0 AFR's turn your engine into a plasma cutter





Block had some markings but nothing major, head is obviously beat but I'll tig weld it back up and machine the chamber back. I grabbed one of my spare heads in hopes of having it running same day but all the intake valves leak on the spare so it's at the machine shop for a valve job. Cant wait to get this back together