2g Waterpipe bend or rubber hose with hx35 install

[Hakmak]

So after trying bending the pipe (which look pretty bad, almost unusable because of how much I had to bend it), I had emense issues getting the thromostat housing to fit back on the head, spent like 3hrs fighting with it on Sat. So I had an idea to cut the pipe where the bend was and use a rubber hose with 2 clamps in that spot. I also got some heat wrap to go around the hose. I'm wondering how long it will last like this, have anyone tried this before? I know I can use a 1G N/A pipe but it seams like I'll have to get a 1G thermo housing and some new hoses to fit as well. Just dont have the time or resources for that now. If I dont get this done soon then I'll have to park her up till next sprint

 

[Cdc1221]

I don't think heat will be the issue there. Try it and make sure it doesn't overheat or leak. It would worry me personally just by the chance of blowing that hose off because of the kink and no beads on the pipe

 

[WES_393]

That's actually a pretty cool idea. I don't think you'll have an issues with it so long as the hose clamps stay tight and the compressor cover doesn't rub a hole through it.

I'd get a roll of heat reflective tape from your local auto store. It's only a few bucks, would guard against radiant heat from the manifold better, and would look much cleaner. The heat won't melt the hose right away or anything, but prolonged exposure might dry it out and cause it to crack. Especially if you spring an exhaust leak.

 

[Cdc1221]

No doubt. I forgot about Mani heat wes . Oh, and the only problem with a 1g na pipe and tstat housing is no filler cap. Can't remember where it is originally, but I ended up having to cut off the filler neck portion of my 2g t housing and splice it into my upper rad hose. Not exactly pretty, but functional. But the plus side is no turbo coolant feed lines to cap off

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

I would rather get one of Jay's Water Pump AN-fitting adapters, have another welded to the thermostat housing and call it a day than worry about that section

 

[T is for TURBO]

I would rather get one of Jay's Water Pump AN-fitting adapters, have another welded to the thermostat housing and call it a day than worry about that section

Me too. But that's price

 

[eclipsyco]

Damn good idea how come I've never thought of it! I had to bend the crap out of my water pipe as well I was afraid I would crack it! Thanks for the tip please keep as posted how did this worked for you!

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

Me too. But that's price

Warped heads and crashes are more expensive

 

[T is for TURBO]

Warped heads and crashes are more expensive

Sarcasm

 

[19Eclipse90]

You may consider trying to contact the OP of this post to see how well his held up, now that it's been about five years he did something similar: My "1g head w/ 2g block" water pipe solution.

 

[this_tsi_8urV8]

How did this work out? My dad was telling me to do the same on mine. My pipe was crushed cpl of yrs ago by a shop and I measured it. It was crushed about 23mm! Instead of doing the same was thinking of a different solution. Also thought about adding another flange/spacer for FP mani.

 

[Lou98GSX]

i have like 4 gaskets on my exhaust manifold to head to clear my 57 trim also had to dent water pipe a little and grind the large bolt on the block . hahns racecraft makes a thick spacer for the exhaust manifold that could be another option .

 

[Dsmkauai]

I use the hrc spacer ( have 2 of them) they do the job perfect and seal just fine between the head and manifold. Real easy way to gain some clearence! O.p. I would weld a bead around the part of the pipe you cut. To give your hose something to catch on. I would be alittle worried it coming off or leaking under pressure the way you have it! It looks like you have it wedged in pretty good so we will hope for the best!

 

[this_tsi_8urV8]

I just ended up heating up the area of the water pipe and hit it with a hammer and a cylinder tube in between hammer and pipe. It's better than before, but could have done a better job at it too, oh well. Now I'm having troubles aligning my damn rebuilt turbo with the old drain line. The flanges had to be replaced since its an updated center section. Can the center section/Oil Drain be moved with out moving/turning the covers?