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2g turbo install problems

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97gsxtreme

15+ Year Contributor
31
1
Jul 27, 2003
Birmingham, Alabama
I installed a ported evo3 16g turbo in my 97 gsx today and afterwards i am having some problems. I have an air fuel ratio gauge which i know is not the most accurate thing to have but it has stopped working and sometimes the first light on the lean side will flicker on and off. I ported my exaust manifold and o2 housing when i did the install. I also have a manuel boost controller that i had set at 12psi. When i drove the car the car boosted to 19psi instead of the 12 that the controller was set for. i ensured that it was hooked up correctly and tried turning the boost down and it still does the same thing. Also my check engine light has came on too. i was just wondering if anyone had any advice or had this happen to them too.
 
thanks for the link but i have already ported the manifold and 02 housing and the turbo was ported from extreme psi. but i dont have a cat so maybe thats the problem. any suggestions about why the check engine light came on. thanks again for any help.
 
97gsxtreme said:
thanks for the link but i have already ported the manifold and 02 housing and the turbo was ported from extreme psi. but i dont have a cat so maybe thats the problem.
Heard that one many times, I have help many on this site solve their EVO3 boost creep through porting, almost everyone of them starts off with a vendor ported EVO3 including the the author of the tech article, and almost in every instance, the conversation starts off just like the one taken place. "You need to properly port your turbo" "No I don't because my turbo is already ported by XXX". Go back to the article, there is a link to the orginal thread which covered the entire process which later inspired the tech article. The season is because a vendor port job focuses mainly on improving spool, controlling boost creep requires porting in completely different areas of the turbine housing.

any suggestions about why the check engine light came on. thanks again for any help.
Take your car to AutoZone or the likes and get it pulled for free.
 
oldman said:
Heard that one many times, I have help many on this site solve their EVO3 boost creep through porting, almost everyone of them starts off with a vendor ported EVO3 including the the author of the tech article, and almost in every instance, the conversation starts off just like the one taken place. "You need to properly port your turbo" "No I don't because my turbo is already ported by XXX". Go back to the article, there is a link to the orginal thread which covered the entire process which later inspired the tech article. The season is because a vendor port job focuses mainly on improving spool, controlling boost creep requires porting in completely different areas of the turbine housing.

Exactly.

Take the turbo off and start porting around the wastegate hole making an easier path for the exhaust gasses to escape. After this, I was able to hold 9psi on my EVO III to redline with the stock flapper.
 
Thanks you guys for your help so now i realize what i need to do. im really frustrated because the guy at extreme psi assured me it would not creep but oh well. ill pull it off and port it and then post back up letting you guys know how it went. thanks again.
 
ok about the check engine light i went to auto zone to have it checked and the code that came out was "fuel trim malfunction" i have no clue what this means.
 
Basically it means there is a malfunction in your system somewhere, causing a change in the amount of fuel being consumed..I believe in Bank 1. This condition can be either lean or rich.

Like any other code, there can be many cause, from a simple air leak somewhere to injectors, to sensors.

Alot of people(not all by no means) replace the o2 sensor and it has solved the problem. I would start by doing that..

These are all possible culprits..

Intake Leak
MAF sensor
Injector
Fuel Pressure
Coolant Temperature Sensor
Intake Air Temperature Sensor
Baro sensor
o2 sensor

If you have a buddy with a GS-T or GS-X I would swap out o2 sensors with him first, clear the code and see if that solves the problem..

Sorry I couldn't be more help, Goodluck
 
Thanks for the reply i wish i did have someone with a dsm that i could do that with, but dsms arent that popular around here. but anyway im going to get a mechanic i know to check out some of the things you listed and see if he can figure out whats wrong. I just hope its as simple as the 02 sensor. My air/fuel gauge quit working so im hoping that the 02 sensor is it.
 
i took the turbo off and ported around the areas that the tech article oldman sent me above said to, and the turbo is still creeping. It is not as bad but still is not right. the boost now starts at 12 which is what the boost controller is set for and creeps up to 16 or 17 instead of the 21 it was before porting. I ported around the inlet for the flapper valve and around the flapper so that it can open 90 degrees. i am really frustrated and dont know what else to do so any further advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
Now turn your boost up to 15-16psi and you're all set, most people don't call 16psi creep at all, why are you trying to run 12psi anyway?
 
Well i was trying to keep it down to 12 psi because all i have is an upgraded fuel pump in the way of fuel mods and i dont have a datalogger yet. The turbo had to be gotten though because my t-25 was starting to smoke but if i had of had a choice i would have got more fuel support first. I know every car is different but is 15-16psi safe on what i have. i used to have a dumped o2 sensor housing on my car but got sick of its annoying sound, but would putting this back on help prevent against boost creep until i get more fuel mods?
 
Putting the o2 dump will solve your boost creep problems, but I find the noise unbearable.

With your mods, I wouldn't worry a whole lot about running 15-16psi, though it would be better to verify with a logger.
 
Thats another question i have. Where do i buy a logger? i went to pocketlogger.com and i understood about the cables but it didnt offer much help about what kind of pda to get because of compatibility issues. i am on a budget after buying this turbo and i need something that i can afford to log with because it really scares me not to know what the engine is doing. also is there anything that is under 200 dollars that maybe is built together that you plug in instead of buying a cable then a pda.
 
$79 for the whole system that connects to your laptops serial port or a serial to Palm cable. Either use your current laptop, or pick up a cheap palm on eBay. I picked up a brand new color Palm IIIc for $50.

The only problem with the above kit is they don't list how many samples per second it takes. I bought a cheap-o OBD-II unit and it only took like 3-4 samples per second. Worked pretty well, but when you start to log more than 1 thing at a time, you loose alot of samples.

I'd stick with the Pocketlogger.com unit. Its proven to work great and will serve you for a long time.
 
Well i replaced my o2 sensor with a denso sensor and that fixed the check engine light and my a/f ratio gauge now works again so im happy about that. I still havent solved the creep issue but i think the problem is i didnt port it enough the second time around so im going to drop the turbo again this weekend and port on it a little more to see if that fixes the problem.
 
alright i will definitely do that because i want to make sure its right. it gets old taking a turbo on and off.
 
This is the picture of the porting i did today.
 

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I think you got the right idea on where to port but I would like to see you take the time to re-port the entire inlet. The picture in the link I posted is one of the best turbo port job I have seen and it was done by a first time porter. Another words, I hope the picture you posted is just the beginning, looks like you're about 10% done. :)
 
These are some more pictures of the porting job that i did on the turbo to stop the boot creep. I also found another problem that might have caused it. The bov was stopped up with this brown rusty looking stuff. I started trying to put air through it and none would come out of the end where the intake recirculation tube goes out. I cleaned it and now air will come out there. Could this have been causing my mbc to malfunction causing the creep possibly. since the mbc Tees into this reciculation line could that be my problem.
 

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did you port the wastegate portion of the O2 housing aswell? that will certainly help. and did you go for the larger 34mm flapper? that also would help. porting the turbine side of the turbo and O2 housing will help spoolup but hurt with creep. i ran 15psi on my E16G before doing injectors but it would still creep. i switched to a ported Evo III O2 housing and i think that took care of it. it being stock is almost as big as a ported 2G housing. and i got mine ported out good. you most likely shouldn't need an external wg for your car but its always nice. just keep in mind that 15psi is concidered low for an E16G which is another reason it will want to creep. once you do injectors and a tune you will be able to turn it up higher and not have any creep.
 
1. Flapper area : Good work, like how you took the time to polish the walls.

2. O2 housing inlet : Go a little deeper into the housing on the wastegate side, does look like it matches the turbine side pretty well, however the same can't be said about the turbine wheel side as it's obviously not cicular, fix it.

3. O2 housing outlet : Obviously you read the article in vfaq :thumb: as most people won't even bother with this, however I don't think vfaq went far enough. My old 1G O2 housing (currently on wiseman DSM90AWD's car) was ported to exactly 2.5". I'm not saying you should do that, if you do you must check the thickness often, but there is obviously alot more room to go. I would also like to see more of the divider removed as well as more material on the opposite wall from the divider to ease the re-entry of the wastegate path.

4. Turbine inlet : This is the most crucial part of the project, many failed because they short changed this part. As you can see in the picture of the tech article, he opened up the entire inlet from the flange as his flange is alot thiner than yours, you can probably open up another 2-3 mm on all sides. Bottom line is this, when you can honestly say to yourself that your inlet is exactly like his, your job with the inlet is complete. You're about 60% complete, don't leave any doubt behind.

5. If you choose to take my advice on 4, make sure you port match both the gasket and the manifold collector to the turbine inlet.

Good job so far. :thumb:
 
alright well i havent finished the porting yet and probably wont have another chance until this weekend so i will post more pics when i finish the job.
 
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