2G Talon - custom gauge cluster face (ISSUE)

[Sp00lin16g]

Help,

My 97 awd talon tsi has an aftermarket/custom gauge cluster face and when I plug the OBD2 reader into it (to read codes .. etc) I can view the rpm's from the device. At idle on the gauges says 1,100ish and the reader says 900ish???
-According to the gauge I do not build/peak boost until 4500rpm's --- that's sooo high right??
-When I unplug the idle speed controller (ISC Motor) nothing changes - no rpm change or anything??

There has to be another boost leak somewhere .. its idles like poop

Background:
-16G turbo swap (old turbo seals busted - burning tons of oil)

Thanks for the help!

 

[97 eclenger]

tach is as easy as taking the needle off, and match it to what the rpm actually is reading. boost and rpm depends on the turbo. the 16g had more turbo lag than the 14b or T25. a blown turbo will also not work very well. rebuild it. its easy to do and all mitsubishi turbos are seperately balanced. i've rebuilt alot of stock turbos. you can run a boost leak test if you'd like. popular places is throttle shaft seals, biss and bov.

 

[Sp00lin16g]

tach is as easy as taking the needle off, and match it to what the rpm actually is reading. boost and rpm depends on the turbo. the 16g had more turbo lag than the 14b or T25. a blown turbo will also not work very well. rebuild it. its easy to do and all mitsubishi turbos are seperately balanced. i've rebuilt alot of stock turbos. you can run a boost leak test if you'd like. popular places is throttle shaft seals, biss and bov.

Anyone know where I can get the OEM gauge cluster face

 

[97 eclenger]

junk yard . i put a set of aftermarket gauge faces in my cluster. it stuck in a few spots. thats just where the face isn't flat on the plastic. thats the reason it sticksyou can still reset the faces. the needles in resting position isn't straight down. almost like its the hour hand and at 6:30 position. its just something to try

 

[Sp00lin16g]

junk yard . i put a set of aftermarket gauge faces in my cluster. it stuck in a few spots. thats just where the face isn't flat on the plastic. thats the reason it sticksyou can still reset the faces. the needles in resting position isn't straight down. almost like its the hour hand and at 6:30 position. its just something to try

The car came with the aftermarket gauge face but I think the scale is off because the reading I get from the ECU is different from what the gauge says ...

 

[Sp00lin16g]

junk yard . i put a set of aftermarket gauge faces in my cluster. it stuck in a few spots. thats just where the face isn't flat on the plastic. thats the reason it sticksyou can still reset the faces. the needles in resting position isn't straight down. almost like its the hour hand and at 6:30 position. its just something to try

Oh your talking about the boost gauge being stuck at -5psi .. yea im not sure about that Ill have to look at the gauge face to see if there are any bumps

 

[PlanZero]

Miller import parts for all your used parts needs. Get rid of that ugly thing!
In regards to idle, test the IAC. Its ridiculously easy. They're known to crap out and fry the ecu.
Also with the 16g you're really gonna need upgraded fuel pump and injectors at the least, and some way to tune or you'll encounter all kinds of problems.

 

[97 eclenger]

miller is a really good place, only down side is they are about the same price as from a dealership. because no one else has the parts they do. local junk yards here always has dsm parts. not turbo. but ebay does. for cheaper to.

 

[Sp00lin16g]

Miller import parts for all your used parts needs. Get rid of that ugly thing!
In regards to idle, test the IAC. Its ridiculously easy. They're known to crap out and fry the ecu.
Also with the 16g you're really gonna need upgraded fuel pump and injectors at the least, and some way to tune or you'll encounter all kinds of problems.

That's what my cousin said .. my ecu may crapped out on me and yes I'm planning to upgrade my fuel system asap thanks

here is a some history on my journey to help ya'll understand what I have done so far ...

Maintenance:
-installed 16G turbo -- replaced stock blown T25 turbo
----used the conversion kit from extremepsi
----not sure if the oil restrictor that it came with is correct? Shouldn't need an oil restrictor for 16G
-----the oil drain leaks ??? I used the oem 2g tube and lobed out the holes -- can't get it to seal properly??
-valve cover gasket + spark plug gaskets
-timing belt + OEM tensioner + gate waterpump
-OEM NGK spark plugs + (blue wires) bosch #09246
-removed the charcoal canister
-removed egr valve
-removed the 2 or 3 solenoids on the firewall
-injector insulators
-installed used injen intake pipe
-replaced o2 sensor - on o2 housing
-coolant flush + oil change
-throttle body gaskets (2) -- Not the shaft seals
-biss o-ring
-oil cap gasket
-exhaust manifold gasket + studs + nuts
----noticed the exhaust manifold studs/nuts were easy to remove -- not sure why?
----noticed the turbo to manifold bolts were loose -- had an exhaust leak -- I may have not torqued them enough?
----noticed tons oil near the head/exhaust ports/coolant tube - I'm guessing from the bad head gasket?
-the car is burning oil ---- I was told it's my valve seals? Hopefully this was from the blown T25 and would explain the oil burning issue as well. Are you still having this problem with the 16G? Yes there is smoke that comes out of the exhaust when I just start the car/cold start -- it doesn't smoke like the blown T25 did, FYI
-Ran seafoam through engine many many times -- in intake/gas tank/small amount in combustion chamber

Future:
-just received HKS hi-power cat back exhaust
-just received megan racing downpipe
-just received ecmlink -- full kit --- will adjust the tps properly when ecmlink is installed
-injectors -- what cc should I go with???
-fuel pump ?? and fuel pressure regulator

Side notes:
-Running off of wastegate at 12psi
-turbo oil feed like runs from the oil filter housing

Issues:
-has an aftermarket/custom gauge cluster face and when I plug the OBD2 reader into it (to read codes .. etc) I can view the rpm's from the device. At idle on the gauges says 1,100ish and the reader says 900ish???
-According to the gauge I do not build/peak boost until 4500rpm's --- that's sooo high right??
-When I unplug the idle speed controller (ISC Motor) nothing changes - no rpm change or anything??
-when boosting it will hold at 12psi but sometimes creep to 20psi if i keep accelerating ?? -- I need to port out my O2 housing?
-when boost leak testing I pump it up to 20psi and in creeps down right away to 0psi in under 30 seconds???

Also need to upgrade your fuel system to support the bigger turbo.
Start with the basics, compression test and boost leak test. -- do you know how I could get smoke in the system when I boost leak test it ?? been boost leak testing with soapy water -- can't find the other leaks??

 

[Sp00lin16g]

miller is a really good place, only down side is they are about the same price as from a dealership. because no one else has the parts they do. local junk yards here always has dsm parts. not turbo. but ebay does. for cheaper to.

Thanks, I've never heard of miller

 

[PlanZero]

Miller's prices aren't even close to dealership. They're used salvage parts and priced as such. You may find the same parts a little cheaper on eBay, but Steve miller stands by his parts and will send you a replacement if they don't work. I've ordered solenoids ($20) IAC ($30) TPS (?) Alternators, starters, ps pumps, brake lights, etc.. From him and if I ever had a problem he would send a new one no questions asked. Of course you could buy brand new OEM or aftermarket parts for a LOT more,if you can even find them, but I don't always have the budget, especially when I'm chasing problems.

 

[97 eclenger]

i'm not saying don't buy from them. its a great place. half the time that part isn't there. and if it is they want alot. its good to support the dsm community. but i ask around online first to see who's got the best deal. they are expensive. that's the only down side. junk yards here, any engine is $350. from them its about $900. both know if it runs or not. both will replace it by the warranty.

 

[Sp00lin16g]

Miller's prices aren't even close to dealership. They're used salvage parts and priced as such. You may find the same parts a little cheaper on eBay, but Steve miller stands by his parts and will send you a replacement if they don't work. I've ordered solenoids ($20) IAC ($30) TPS (?) Alternators, starters, ps pumps, brake lights, etc.. From him and if I ever had a problem he would send a new one no questions asked. Of course you could buy brand new OEM or aftermarket parts for a LOT more,if you can even find them, but I don't always have the budget, especially when I'm chasing problems.

Oh that's great to hear .. I'll be using that site soon than thanks
That's great to hear he'll replace parts no problem .. good service

 

[Sp00lin16g]

i'm not saying don't buy from them. its a great place. half the time that part isn't there. and if it is they want alot. its good to support the dsm community. but i ask around online first to see who's got the best deal. they are expensive. that's the only down side. junk yards here, any engine is $350. from them its about $900. both know if it runs or not. both will replace it by the warranty.

Thanks I'll keep that in mind .. $350 for an engine haha that's great

 

[miliman13]

Same price in Tampa trans are like 250 . never understood why "certain" yards tax the high hell out of parts......