2g Stainless Stell Clutch Line??

[ECLIPSEGST25]

Is their any benefit to changing the hard oem clutch line for the stainless steel clutch line? i would think that the hard oem line would hold more pressure and better.

 

[larsrya8]

The advantage to switching to a Stainless Steel braided clutch line is that it replaces the rubber section of the stock line.

 

[ECLIPSEGST25]

as far as i know the 2G doesn't have a rubber part. mine is all hard line.

 

[jtmcinder]

Oo, flashback to April First!

If the entire line were solid metal, how exactly does the fluid get out to the caliper, which is mounted on a part of the car that moves relative to the chassis, namely the knuckle?

And, yes, replacing these rubber lines does help, even if your current lines are in good shape. This is true because the rubber bulges slightly when you apply the brakes, which reduces "feel" by introducing non-linearities.

- Jtoby

ps. it was a choice between sarcasm and neg rep points; the coin came up tails

 

[eclipsegsx1736]

He is referring to the clutch line, not brake line. An SS clutch line should improve the feel of the clutch, but probably won't make as much of a difference as SS brake lines would. If you're pulling the tranny or installing a new clutch, it wouldn't hurt to replace it with an SS unit, as the SS unit won't deteriorate over time as a rubber line would.

 

[diamondgst]

the 2g's have a rubber section about 6-8" long by the fuse box, the MAIN reason you use the stainless steel line is to bypass the clutch fluid accumulator just go stright from the hard line down on the the banjo of the slave

 

[Nanan]

SS clutch line = the goodness. You will see reduced clutch peddle travel and a much more responsive overall clutch. The SS line comes in two flavers that I have seen, one goes from the hardline on the body to the slave cyl, the other runs from the master to the slave. I do not see any reason to go with the full length SS line unless your hardline has been crushed or has corroded away.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

No more big ugly clutch fluid accumulator.. It's only 20$ for a ss braided line, I have one.

 

[ECLIPSEGST25]

yea their is no reason people ahve to be wise asses about feedback to forum post especially if the information they give isn't even about the topic.

 

[gsx rated98]

You dont even need to buy a SS Clutch line to replace the rubber piece. There is plenty of line in there to just re-route it all and hook it back up. You can spend the $20 for the line, but you dont have too.
I did this on mine, and works GREAT.

 

[ECLIPSEGST25]

the 2g's have a rubber section about 6-8" long by the fuse box, the MAIN reason you use the stainless steel line is to bypass the clutch fluid accumulator just go stright from the hard line down on the the banjo of the slave

see now this is great advise. Thanx

 

[Talon ESI-T]

Your right you dont have to use the stainless line to remove the accumulator but thats not the sole purpose of the stainless line. As said about the stainless line wont bulge from pressure on the clutch.

As the rubber clutch section goes bad it will begin to flex (bulge) and it will also release broken down rubber into the clutch fluid contaminating the fluid. Before you think i am full of it. Flush your clutch fluid and 1 year later go back and see how clear it is. How do you think it gets dirty, the system is sealed off unless you are opening the resevoir cap every other day.

So basically my point is: you need to ask yourself what you want to accomplish with your brake line. Do you want to remove the accumulator or do you want a more performance oriented setup.

I think by now you realize that you do have a rubber line, you must! Think about it logically, the motor is on rubber mounts therefor it will move slightly with the torque of the trans. If you have a solid clutch line from the body, what would happen over a few years of the motor moving around? The line would break and also it would rub the body causing a weak spot for the car to rot out.

I can understand the sarciasm, its frustrating when someone wants to argue they dont have a part in their setup when you KNOW for a fact that they do. Plus we are here to have a little fun. If we were serious all the time this place would be like a morgue. Think of it this way, sarciasm is like screwwing with each other, being an a$$%^ole is just ignorant, you agree?

Terry

 

[Bigglesworth87]

I replaced my line with the full SS line. YES the 80+ dollar one. Did it make a difference? Yes it did. It made my clutch a bit more responsive. I cant vouch for a ss break line because I havent changed that out yet but I know from my own personal experience that it made a difference. I compare it to putting in motor mount inserts. You will notice it for like a week and then after that everything is just normal. Does that make sence? If your Mr Track star and go every weekend it is a worthwhile mod but for a DD it shouldn't be on the top of your things to buy list.

 

[Talon ESI-T]

Well brake lines are a bit of a different subject but since we are discussing stainless lines i think its relevant, MODs agree?

Anyway stainless brake lines I am sure have all the benefits like the clutchline. I installed them because teflon lines dont wear like rubber does and my car is only driven in nice weather. There was a good Discussion i was involved with on another board regarding stainless on daily driven cars. The CON was that dirt can get into the braid and cause premature wear on the inner teflon line. This can lead to brake line leaks. This makes perfect logic, does it happen? Probably very rare but its an interesting point. Now on the same idea, the clutchline also is exposed to dirt and oil but not as much.

In motorcycle catalogs, specifically harley, there used to be a clear heatshrink made for wrapping stainless lines to protect them from the elements. I have considered this but since mine have already been in rain its kinda too late. My Fuel lines I wrap with heatshrink to protect from chaffing.