2g radiator support question

[ehc14]

Wasn't entirely sure where to post this so I threw it in the newbie section.
I need input from people who have had experience with the front end of 2g DSM's.
I was recently in a front end collision that damged the side/middle of the front of my car. I'm not concerned about the hood/headlights/bumper etc but need to know about the radiator support..I am curious if any of you guys can tell from the picture if a.) I can fix this b.) what all is involved with a new radiator support (just drilling the welds and putting a new one on?) c.) if I were to find one from a junk yard would I be able to use a N/A one? d.) if not, where is a good place to find one? anyone have experience or know if this one would work? 1996 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE Parts - Mentor Mitsubishi Parts

Thanks you all tons for the help!

I also have a brand new Punishment Racing FMIC, Punishment Radiator, and new intake pipe ready to go on if I can get this fixed!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Anyone? Need some help and am planning on going to the junkyard tomorrow if I can salvage a front end!

 

[importamatuer]

From the looks of the picture you can probably fix it if your good at body work. Yes you can drill pout the spot welds off another car for the radiator support do the same exact thing on your car and replace it as long as your good at welding or know someone that is you should be fine. It is very time consuming though good luck

 

[blindboarder_02]

You can use any 2g radiator support. I would replace with a new one. After you try to straighten the old one, it will be week and easier to crush again.

First clear everything out of the way. Fenders, wires, ANYTHING YOU DO NOT WANT BURNT FROM WELDING.

Start with 1/8" drill bit into the center of the spot welds.

Then use a spot weld drill bit. Remove old old support. (Some prying will be involved)

*Weld thru primer all areas of weld*
Spray it on all the spots. This will decrease moisture trapped in the welds.

Place new support in spot. Tack weld 4 corners together for stability. This will also help keep from warping as you weld. The only welds you should use are spot welds. For this, do some practice welds on holes in scrap metal. Get used to starting the bead and rotating outwards. Do not use too much heat, just so it sounds like frying bacon. (Get the puddle started and move quickly. Too much build will cause week/stressed steel) The spot welds should be 8-10mm wide. For practice, try to rip the metal away from each other. It should leave a 3mm center and the piece you tear away will have a hole in it. This is standard.

After all welds are final and cooled down, grind the tops flush and use a wire tip to clean out the residue.
Add duraglass, sand.
Add bondo, sand.
Add polyester fill if desired, sand.
Then surfacer, sealer, paint, clear.

If you want it done for insurance purposes i suggest having an ICAR licensed welder perform the welds. It will pass inspection easier and you can re-insure it. If you dont know how to weld, it will fail inspection. They look for every sign of week welds. Cracks, pitting, holes etc. If you are proficient with a welder and welding terms, this should be no problem.