2g pistons/1g rods combo. Please help.

[packinkimber45]

After researching a lot about pistons, I am wanting to go this route as long as my set up allows for it. 300-400 hp, daily driver, and 20-25 psi on Evo 3 16g on pump gas. Rest of my mods are on my profile. I feel this is the best option for me cost wise and simplicity. I've been researching this for days, and I can't find the answers I am looking for. The rest of my mods are on my profile. Please no hear says, looking for info based on experiences in running this set up.

1. Oil squirters. I read some people were having issues with the 1g oil squirters hitting the 2g pistons and causing them to fall off in the block? I dont know if I read this right but I need to know if there are known issues that are related to the squirters hitting the 2g pistons vs with 1g pistons. Also when I took my block to the machine shop they put it in a spray cabinet since it was really filthy. Do they spray the block with some kind of materials like bead blasting to clean the block off? I forgot to take off the squirters before hand, I dont know if that would in anyway have weaken the squirters, should I buy new ones?

2. I know I have read that the 2g pistons are a little bit harder to tune than the 1g pistons. Later down the road I will be getting dsmlink for tuning and all other supporting mods. However, until I have enough cash for supporting mods, I will be daily driving the car with the stock ecu at stock boost level for several months. Is it okay for me to run the car this way if I go with 2g pistons for a while? Or do I need to go 1g pistons for this reason? I read that the stock 1g maps may be too aggressive for the 2g pistons being 8.5:1 compression ratio.

3. Piston to wall clearance. What piston to wall clearance do I go with, 1g or 2g specs? If 2g specs, can someone point me in the right direction to find this. Unless someone has the specs, can some one tell me?

4. Main bolts. I have brand new main bolts that the machine shop torqued to the block in order to check my main bore housing spec. Should they have align hone/bore my mains before they used them when they checked my mains? Do I need to make sure the mains are align bored/honed since I am going with new bolts? I know you should when changing rod bolts. Also the what is the difference with align honing the main vs align boring the mains? Which one should I have done if I need to?

5. I am having my block bored .020 over. I have a brand new oem crank I will be using, acl race main and rod bearings, new oil pump, water pump, timing components, reusing arp head studs, new oem composite head gasket, new main bolts. Last on my list are pistons and rods. I want to go with the 2g/1g piston and rod combo with dsmgraveyard.

6. Before I took the head off the block, the motor has been sitting in my garage for two years upside down on the motor stand. The crank, oil pan, front case and timing components were taken off before it sat for that long. Do I need to take apart my head to get it cleaned? Any other stuff I need to do, or can I just run it. No issues before I took the car apart. The head is suppose to be pretty new, it is an SBR stage 2 race head with 1mm over sized valves. The previous owner told me he just installed it right before I bought it.

Thanks.

 

[killercolt]

There is not that much saving going with 2g pistons on 1g rods. A better combo is forge pistons on 1g rods. Not many machine shop can machine the 1g rods to accept a 22mm wrist pin correctly. The machine shop can easily machine the small end of the rod not parallel to the big end of the rod. Since factory piston runs really tight ptw clearance, you can easily have problem. Most machine shop charges 75-200 to machine the 1g rods to accept 22mm wrist pins. Then they charge 15-35 bux to press the pins in and out. Cheap non-oem 2g pistons are 90-175+ bux. Oem 2g piston is even more expensive. When it all done, you can have a set of forge pistons pressed onto 1g rods for 350-450. Just remember not to use the wrist pin locks in conjunction with the 1g rods.

 

[91whiteGSX]

Hey whats up I went with graveyards Evo 9/ wit 6 Bolt rods but for me I wanted a streetable car I can drive to work on a cold jersey morning and hit the parkway thats why I didnt go the other way I just got the car running and I have to say I like it .. but I am running ecm link SD setup but they did have little nicks in the pistons when I got them but my machine shop took care of it for me He said it looks like vice marks when they put the pins in.. all said and done it was 420 shipped to the house

 

[pushen 160]

I'm running that set up with this build my machine shop did the work to the rods works great my oil squirters what i did was hold the squirter on the tube with two pliers and bend the tube to the left it clears and does not touch have not had a problem and your stock bottom end can handle 500 hp with out problems just don't run that every day but does not break pretty cool.

 

[Wild Bill]

Depending how much your machines hop hoses you, i know it takes time and they have to make a living.. Anyway mine honed the small end, installed a piston, didn't like side clearance so remove the piston, wrecked the pin and piston. Paid for another set of pistons because e-bay was less than 1 factory piston. Nothing bad to say about them.

Price to take something off the side of the small end of the rod, guys were talking $200 bucks, initial machine shop said they wouldn't do it. Did it myself, balanced the rods, Installed the pistons myself.

Car not out of the garage yet and developed a ticking noise. then the noise got bigger and lost a ton of oil pressure. Yeah it sucked, pulled the pan, had another squinter. I would just check real close as for clearance and a dab of loctite.

A little stress for sure, car runs fantastic but after machine cost of converting rods even though I did a bunch of it myself would help fund nice forged pistons.

 

[JonTorresGST]

I guess every machine shop is different, but it seems some of you are getting ripped off. I had a 2g piston, 1g rod combo. Pistons were $90.00 (NPR), and installed on the rods for $60.00. To press them and make it 22mm.Thats $150.00, and can handle over 400hp vs forged $400+.

I say 2g piston, 1g rod combo is the best bang for the buck.

 

[Biscuit33]

I know its about a year later, but are the 1g rods off the gs the same as the ones in a gst

 

[BogusSVO]

If it is a 6 bolt 1g, turbo rods and NA rods are all the same.