Resolved 2G No power to the ECU

[KeelesKustome]

Hey i need help

My ECU is not receiving any power to pin 12 or 25, thus causing my car to not wana try to crank and the fuel pump not coming on.
The relay in the dash behind the radio has been changed 3 times and it never makes any clicking noises. This relay also does not have a constant 12v going to it like I think it should even when the key is off.

What's weird is when I probe the fuel pump wire at the ECU with my test light while having the key on acc, the pump will run until I let the probe off.

I have messed with the neutral safety switch with no luck.
On my ECU pinout it says the wire should be black, this is not the case, it is black with a red stripe.

I would like to try and bypass the N switch at the transmission, as it is an automatic 2g, but I can not figure out the wiring schematics on how to do so, and I am unsure if this would allow power to enter my ECU even if I did.

I checked and bypassed the 20amp, 30 amp, and the 100amp fuses under the hood one at a time to make sure this was not my problem, it did not help.
Every now and then I'll hear some clicking coming from where the neutral safety switch is located.

I also changed the ignition switch with no luck.

I also locked and unlocked the car with the key to make sure it wasn't some safety feature,

I also ran a wire from the fuse panel with a constant 12v to the MFI relay where it says 30 amps, as this is suppose to stay charged and it doesn't, with my hard wire it does but has not fixed the problem and the relay still does not click or allow power to the ECU.

I am considering the neutral safety switch, how do you get rid of this on an automatic that is staying automatic?

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I connected the neutral safety wires, red with black stripe big, to the black big wire, nothing changed.

I tried grounding the last mentioned wire, it already had ground and i added one, nothing changed.

I ran from the 30 amp fuse power to the #12 and 25 pin the ECU starts up and shows the CEL light for 5 secs, so that's a sign the ECU is good I do believe. Problem being the relay still isn't triggering the starter and the fuel pump, why?

Also side note, now when the ECU is working, so does my keychain to lock and unlock the doors, I checked to make sure it wasn't the security system again and it is not.

Please shoot me some more ideas to do, as I have swapped every other MFI plug in the car where this one is and it isn't changing a thing, and i know they are good because I have tested them in other spots. The MFI plug seems to not be making it's ground properly, where should i look for this at?

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Okay so here's what I have done, the MFI relay: I added a ground to the side that wasn't getting it for some reason, this allows the starter to now crank over.

Although the CEL light isn't coming on because it's still not getting power, so i add the 30 amp fuse direct path power wire to one of the terminals, i think 25, now the fuel pump kicks on and it turns over and the CEL light comes on for 5 seconds.

I am here by myself so checking for spark is hard, i manage, and i have none.
I can only assume that the relay is messing that up too. I think what the heck is going on with this?

I have swapped this relay numerous times and still nothing, and how come i am not getting fire even bypassing it?



some info I might try that I found.

Here is the short version of what it says to check for the relay.

Section 4-3, Fuel Injection Control Relay Check. (just the relay)
This tests the MPI side of the MPI relay
step 32 - Remove EFI relay
step 33 - Connect battery positive (+) to terminal 10 and battery negative (-) to terminal 8
This should activate the one side of the relay causing it to connect pin 10 to pin 4 and 5
step 34 - Connect voltmeter negative probe to the battery negative terminal, Connect voltmeter positive probe to terminal 4 and then to terminal 5, There should be 12volts at each terminal.
if you do this before step 22 you'll see pin 4 and 5 don't have 12v before hand and do after

This tests the fuel pump side of the MPI relay
step 35 - Connect battery positive (+) to terminal 9 and battery negative (-) to terminal 6
step 36 - Check for continuity between terminals 2 and 3, there should be continuity, next remove the ground lead from terminal 6 and check again, there should be no continuity.
step 37 - Connect battery positive (+) to terminal 3 and battery negative (-) to terminal 7
step 38 - Check for voltage between terminal 2 and the battery ground, there should be 12v
step 39 - If the test results are incorrect, replace relay with new part.

According to this my relay passed, but maybe not.

What this doesn't test is that MPI relay is functioning in the car. For that you need to check that you have 12v at the connector for pin 10 all the time, turn on the ignition switch and verify you have 12v at pins 4 and 5 when the ignition switch is in the run or start position.
If the the relay checked out but you done see 12v at 4 and 5 then you need to look at the ECU and the signals going to it. )

 

[GSXTasy005]

If your car backfires, then this is your problem... Just try it and let me know. Can't get any worse than it already is.

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[KeelesKustome]

to re-enegize the state of my car:

I have a 98 gsx, with a 6 bolt swap blaock and head, i am using 98 gsx coil pack with a 95 wiring harness and 95 ecu.
I see what you told me the firing order should be, i have not tried it yet, because of time, but this thread here does not concure with your firing assesment, and it it has me slightly confused.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/275959-6-bolt-swap-problems-have-fuel-spark-compression-but-wont-start.html

also can someone give me a link or someones name and number to call to repair my link ecu?
I emailed ecmlink but they haven't returned my email, and they specifically said they don't take phone calls, you have to be kidding...... Let me talk to a person any day of the week, especially If I'm gonna be paying for services.

4123 made it start up, on the coil side.

and my new started burnt up,, bastard.. this is rediculous, it was running really roughish but i think it's because of the bigger injectors flooding it, going to get a new starter and i need some 450,520cc injectors if ya'll have any you can send asap.

 

[GSXTasy005]

I'm fairly certain that it's your firing order on the coils. wether you use my suggestion or not, it's up to you. that's just how mine is setup. and I have the same setup as you.

95 eprom (oe CAS setup, not inverted)
95 harness
2g coil pack
1g CAS rewire.

 

[KeelesKustome]

i just told you the OE firing order made my car fire right up...... so wth

 

[GSXTasy005]

Oops. My bad. Wasn't looking at the latest post. Sounds like you just need to get the link ecu fixed. I sent my ecu to ecmtuning. They did an excellent job! And were very fast to get it taken care of. However, I would suggest that you don't do ANY shipping through UPS tho. They are the slowest shipping company I've ever seen! Try usps flat rate, they are much faster. UPS ground (5-7 days) MEANS 7 days... it was horrible having to wait that long, just to get a small package. Usps got my package to them in 2 days!

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[KeelesKustome]

thanks man, i shipp alot and use usps priority mail all the time, and i had already shipped it this mornign to them, i have 450cc injectors on the way untill i get my link back, thanks for all the help.

btw: the wire setup for the rigged 2 mfi relay did not work for some reason.

Conclussion from my findings.
oem wire harness was chewed by mice and dogs.
replaced it with 95 harness.
mpi relay had crapped out,
replaced it and the car worked,
then the link ecu crapped out, sent it to be repaired.
then the new starter crapped out,
warrentied it
I also removed the turbo timer harness but it didn't change anything.

sorry if this isn't the answer you needed if you got this far, but thats what my issue all boiled down too.. just 1 mishap right after another.

 

[sniver]

So she works now?

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[KeelesKustome]

yep resolved, everything is correct and works everytime on comand
Thanks for all your help.

 

[GSXTasy005]

Thanks for updating us! You should resolve the thread now, and provide feedback if you haven't already done so.

I'll have to look more into the 2-relay setup. From what I've seen, the 95 relay is a lot more expensive than the 96-99 relays. On top of that, if half of the relay goes out, you still have to buy a whole new one. But I'll save that for a tech article or something...

Anyway, glad to hear that it's running, I hope they are able to repair the ECU for a decent price.

 

[KeelesKustome]

The EPROM ECU was fixed and is being shipped back they sent me this email.

We replaced the Q5 MFI output transistor and cleaned up caps leakage.

So even though it didn't cost over $60 to fix, I was still sold a defective part by a member on here for $400.
I don't have much luck.

 

[sniver]

The EPROM ECU was fixed and is being shipped back they sent me this email.

We replaced the Q5 MFI output transistor and cleaned up caps leakage.

So even though it didn't cost over $60 to fix, I was still sold a defective part by a member on here for $400.
I don't have much luck.

You know, you owe me an appology. I told you take someones word with a grain of salt, and you told me to dismiss the idea, he's done no wrong.

Just wanted to toss in my "I told ya so".

Just think how much more you appreciate the car after all the work you put forth.

After the ECU gets in, we'll see how she really shines.



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[KeelesKustome]

true, I try to give everyone the benifit of the doubt. life isn't much fun thinking negitive about everything.
O well, I contacted the guy and let him know so he could choose to do the right thing, but haven't any response,

 

[GSXTasy005]

Let us know when you get DSMLink running again.

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[KeelesKustome]

I had DSMLink running for a week and then oil went everywhere on my timing belt side so I'm having to investigate and replace my timing belt in my front yard, not much fun, but before that, everything was working flawlessly with no hickups on wiring anywhere.

 

[sniver]

I've had a bad front cover gasket, and it leaked out the tentioner bolt.

I've had oil leak from the balance shaft plug, the biggest leaker.

And I've had cam seals make quite a mess.

Not sure if that's even remotley helpful, but that's my experiance with wet oiled tbelts.

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[KeelesKustome]

The culprit inherintly was my oil pump, you can see this by checking out my BSE thread.