97gst_spyder
10+ Year Contributor
- 2,262
- 16
- Sep 1, 2008
-
Lakeland,
Florida
So I had an issue with my Spyder being an inch lower on the drivers side since I bought the car. So I finally bought some knuckles off a RS/GS Eclipse. Much to my surprise they are very much different.
This is info is from my 97 GST Spyder 5-spd and a 95-96 GS Auto.
My knuckles from the Spyder.
Front: Much larger the base where the two ball joints connect on the front and the tierod arm is larger.
Rear: The area where the wheel bearing is connected is much thicker.
95-96 RS/GS Auto Knuckles.
Front: Much less material where the two ball joints connect, also, thinner tierod arm.
Rear: The area for the wheel bearing is thinner (my original bolts for the wheel bearing are 3/4in too long).
Basically if you want stronger knuckles for autox or rally use the Spyder ones, if you want weight loss then use the RS/GS ones.
I have no idea what standard GST/GSX knuckles look like but I will post pics of the factory Spyder knuckles and the 95-96 RS/GS ones for someone to compare to their GST/GSX ones.
Pics will be up tonight!
This is info is from my 97 GST Spyder 5-spd and a 95-96 GS Auto.
My knuckles from the Spyder.
Front: Much larger the base where the two ball joints connect on the front and the tierod arm is larger.
Rear: The area where the wheel bearing is connected is much thicker.
95-96 RS/GS Auto Knuckles.
Front: Much less material where the two ball joints connect, also, thinner tierod arm.
Rear: The area for the wheel bearing is thinner (my original bolts for the wheel bearing are 3/4in too long).
Basically if you want stronger knuckles for autox or rally use the Spyder ones, if you want weight loss then use the RS/GS ones.
I have no idea what standard GST/GSX knuckles look like but I will post pics of the factory Spyder knuckles and the 95-96 RS/GS ones for someone to compare to their GST/GSX ones.
Pics will be up tonight!