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2G 2g Interior Wiring Harness- Name these connectors!

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Flash

20+ Year Contributor
3,360
14
Nov 30, 2003
Highlands Ranch, Colorado
I need help with identifying what connectors are for what. I labeled most all connectors when I removed my interior wiring harness, but some connectors were not connected to anything. I want to remove any wire and connectors from the harness that I can.
MB942485- JNZ's site says- Fuel system - Cruise control. So what does it do? I have removed my cruise control, does this mean I don't need this box? So what does this box do exactly?
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MB943259- JNZ's site says- Electrical - Chassis electrical - Flashers - Turn signal flasher. Sounds like I need this. But is this description correct?
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I assume these are for the seat controls, ground, and seatbelt light?
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Now these two connectors were in the trunk interior, they are around the area of the trunk latch, in the middle connected to nothing. What do they go to? And can they be removed?
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This was over by the connectors for the right taillight. I assume it was connected to the factory CD changer?
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This is what the '98 FSM shows. I don't believe the wiring (colors) would have changed between '97 and '98.

First is the Speed Control Unit via CAPS, the FSM lists it as the Auto-Cruise control ECU. Logic suggests that you wouldn't need it. Maybe someone else can chime in on that bit, but I'll have another look at the circuit diagram when I'm not so tired

Second, CAPS lists it as the Hazard & Turn Signal Lamp Flasher Unit.

Third, you would be correct. The single black wire is a ground. The others are for the power seat assembly (pin 1 – black; pin 2 – red w/ white) and the seat belt buckle switch (pin 1 – yellow w/ black; pin 2 - black)

Fourth, the black connector is for the liftgate switch (pin 1 – black; pin 2 – red w/ green) and the white one is for the liftgate key cylinder switch (pin 1 – black; pin 2 – blue w/ red) for the theft alarm security system.

Last one, you're correct again. The "reserve connector for CD auto changer" is a 6-pin connector and only utilizes the first three pins (pin 1 – blue; pin 2 – black; pin 3 – red w/ black).



Here's the Auto-Cruise ECU Pinouts and Destinations

Pin 1: Black w/ red, runs to the clutch pedal position switch for M/T or the starter relay for A/T
Pin 2: Blue w/ black, intersects wiring running between pin 5 of the auto-cruise control main switch and pin 1 of the stop light switch
Pin 3: Blue w/ red, A/T only, intersects with wiring from pin 17 of the junction block, pin 3 of the overdrive switch, and pins 12 and 25 of the TCU
Pin 4: Yellow w/ red, intersects wiring running from the MFI system/auto transmission wiring to pin 87 on the ECU and to pin 3 (closed throttle position switch) of the throttle position sensor
Pin 5: Brown w/ red, intersects wiring running from pin 84 on the ECU to the MFI system/auto transmission wiring and to pin 2 on the throttle position sensor
Pin 6: Black, ground wire running to pin 11 on jumper connector 2, ultimately connecting to pin 2 of the jumper connector to ground
Pin 7: None
Pin 8: Black w/ white, runs straight to ground
Pin 9: None
Pin 10: Red w/ yellow, A/T only, runs to pin 37 on the TCU
Pin 11: Red w/ white, A/T only, runs to pin 4 on the overdrive switch
Pin 12: Blue w/ yellow, runs to pin 2 (release valve) on the auto-cruise control vacuum pump
Pin 13: Blue w/ black, runs to pin 3 (control valve) on the auto-cruise control vacuum pump
Pin 14: Black, ground wire intersecting the wiring running between pin 1 of the clutch pedal position switch and pin 13 of jumper connector 2
Pin 15: Green, intersects wiring between the resistor from pin 9 of jumper connector 2 and the ABS and stop lighting wiring and pin 3 on the stop light switch
Pin 16: Red w/ blue, runs to pin 9 on the junction block while it branches off towards some automatic transmission wiring and the MFI system
Pin 17: None
Pin 18: Red, ultimately runs to pin 1 (coast/set control) on the auto-cruise control switch; runs to pin 3 a 3-pin connector where the wire color changes from red to black w/ white, through a "clock spring", and finally to pin 1 previously mentioned
Pin 19: White w/ red, intersects some wiring running to pin 3 on the vehicle speed sensor, A/C system, cooling system, A/T wiring, MFI system, pin 14 on the data link connector, and pin 36 (speedometer) on the combination meter
Pin 20: Blue w/ white, intersects wiring between pin 2 of the auto-cruise control switch and the dedicated fuse from pin 1 of the junction block
Pin 21: None
Pin 22: None
Pin 23: Light green w/ red, runs to pin 16 (cruise indication light) on the combination meter
Pin 24: Yellow w/ black, runs to pin 13 of the data link connector
Pin 25: Light green w/ black, intersects wiring running from pin 1 of the auto-cruise control vacuum pump to pin 4 of the stop light switch
Pin 26: Blue w/ orange, runs to pin 4 (motor) of the auto-cruise control vacuum pump

So it looks like it can be removed as everything runs to other cruise control related equipment or intersects wiring for another system.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Wow, thanks for the help! Very helpful. I think I will remove the factory amp connector (not pictured), the 'cruise box', and the wiring to the drivers seat.
 
It happens. My car didn't come with fog lights, but it had the dash harness connector and the engine wiring harness connectors in place for them. In other words, it makes a lot more sense to build a generalized harness than building different harnesses for every possible options combination. If you don't have power seats, you should be able to remove that if you want.

The seat belt buckle switch runs to the seat belt warning buzzer circuit; that seems like pretty standard equipment to me.
 
It happens. My car didn't come with fog lights, but it had the dash harness connector and the engine wiring harness connectors in place for them. In other words, it makes a lot more sense to build a generalized harness than building different harnesses for every possible options combination. If you don't have power seats, you should be able to remove that if you want.

The seat belt buckle switch runs to the seat belt warning buzzer circuit; that seems like pretty standard equipment to me.

They build one harness and then things can be added.
Sometimes the dealers will add options, like AC, so the harness already has all of these connectors and all that needs to be done is to plug things in.
 
I was removing the wire to the seat power tonight and I started to wonder if I could use the big red power wire to power my Stack cluster gauge. The wire is already in a connector, you can't get much cleaner than that. Possible?
 
I don't see why not. Here's a rundown of the wiring from end connector to origin, maybe it will help if you decide to do that.

From the power seat connection, the red w/ white wire (E-45, 90-270) runs to a blue 6-pin connector (B-72) near the driver side kick panel that combines the rear wiring harness and body wiring harness together. It runs on from there and comes to a harness junction point joining the power window harness before running to a milk-white 8-pin connector (B-77) more behind the dash that combines the front wiring harness and the body wiring harness. Out of that it runs straight to the Power Window and Power Seat fuse (40A for Spyder, 30A for all others) in the main fuse box under the hood. That fuse is linked to the (100A) Alternator fuse and the alternator fuse is wired straight to the battery.
 
Before I solder all my wires to that power wire. Does that wire have a relay so it's not on all the time. I know it sounds like a stupid question, but I just think discovering my battery is drained from it is more stupid. ;)
 
Nope. Probably doesn't have one because the power seat controls acted as switches that were normally open.
 
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