2G Idle airflow numbers

[Omega]

What numbers are you getting? Either in Hz or lb/min, I don't care.

(This IS tuning, I just need some data first)

 

[pickens]

38-40hz

 

[Omega]

I assme that is what the AFC says. Do you know if that number is pre AFC correction or after?

Thanks BTW

 

[PaleDSM]

35 Hz on the afc.

 

[v2ner]

im gettin about 30 hz at regular temp. and about 40 upon start up. i'm not sure but i think its after correction.

 

[Omega]

Hmm, that is what I get (38 Hz after warmup)

For some reason m car doesn't idle when I set the correction correctly (-26) for the 650's I have. It will only idle well (and the LTFT's are good at +30 correction)

I don't have any airtemp difference.. the MAFT locks it at 80 deg or something like that.

Thanks guys.

 

[CanadianTSi]

I get about 33hz at Idle and whatever the S-AFC displays is Pre-correction.

Just watch you STFT and make the needed changes until it gets to about +/- 2 %

 

[Omega]

Just watch you STFT and make the needed changes until it gets to about +/- 2 %

Thats the thing, In order to get good STFT my lo settings (from idle on up) need to be +30. I know that isn't right.

 

[CanadianTSi]

It's not like your fuel trims are lying....sometimes things don't make sense. Just set it at whatever it needs to get your STFT to 0

 

[Omega]

Eh, I get what you are saying, but there has to be a reason for the car to do this.

16G, 550's = AFC set to -18 and ran great.

G50, 650's, fuel line upgrade = +30 and it still acts funny.

I want to know why I can't set it to the proper correction values and have the car run.

 

[steve]

If you went from negative corrections to positive corrections while putting larger injectors in I suspect you either have a huge vacuum leak or you messed up your MAFT settings in the process.

Steve

 

[Omega]

I have only touched the MAFT once. That was for the initial setup over a year ago.

For the car to care about a leak (at idle anyway), wouldn't it have to be after the MAF? I use it in a blow through setup. I will do another boost leak test just to make sure.

 

[steve]

I have only touched the MAFT once. That was for the initial setup over a year ago.

For the car to care about a leak (at idle anyway), wouldn't it have to be after the MAF? I use it in a blow through setup. I will do another boost leak test just to make sure.

Rereading the thread, with you having a reasonable karmen count, I have no idea why your corrections are so far off where they should be unless your not delivering all the fuel the ECU asked for. I can't imagine the MAFT settings causing that and still showing about 38 Hz.

Steve

 

[Omega]

I called Slowboy and talked to someone there for a bit. Initially he thought it was a bad FPR. I don't think that is the case since the FP raises and lowers accordingly. He agreed, but advised to check anyway.. since they are cheap. He also said to check the TPS. I don't think that is the issue, but at this point I am open for options.. and I can cross it off the list of "checked" parts.

 

[44pirate]

What V translator do you have?
What are your settings?
What size maf do you have on, 3" or 3.5".

 

[KPWSerpiente]

.5 lb/min

-T

 

[Omega]

It's version 1.3 whatever.
The settings are all zero (and setup for the 3.5" MAF)

 

[44pirate]

My Karman reads 50 at idle 850rpm

 

[44pirate]

It's version 1.3 whatever.
The settings are all zero (and setup for the 3.5" MAF)

YOur MAF should be set like this for 3.5" maf
The dip switches
1 on
2 off
3 off
4 off

Base should be 4 for 550 injectors
Base should be 6 for 660

The IDLE MID and WOT knobs work in this manner. Turn to the left LEAN turn to the right Rich.

What do you use to log your LTFT and STFT?

 

[Omega]

YOur MAF should be set like this for 3.5" maf
The dip switches
1 on
2 off
3 off
4 off

Base should be 4 for 550 injectors
Base should be 6 for 660

The IDLE MID and WOT knobs work in this manner. Turn to the left LEAN turn to the right Rich.

What do you use to log your LTFT and STFT?

My dipswitches are like that (and have been). I have never used the MAFT to tune, just the AFC. At one point recently I did use the base setting on the MAFT to select the 650's, but that had no effect on my problem... so I went back to my normal methods.

I use OBDII from pocketlogger.

 

[44pirate]

The thing that I found works best is to reset your ECU everytime you make a change to the MAFT. For cruising, using the MAFT to with works much better. Set your Low settings on the SAFC to 0 across the board.

Reset your ECU. Start the engine, watch your LTFT and STFT. If you STFT cycle at +10 then turn the Idle knob 2 clicks rich. Make sure your LTFT stays at 0 at idle. The STFT will bounce around -2 to +2 when you get the Idle set. 850rpm idle works best. Adjust your BISS for a 850 idle. Once you get over 400karme, when excellerating, the STFT should go to 0. So below 400 Karmen watch what your STFT do as you ease into the throttle. If you are seeing positive #'s then you can correct that to 0 with the MID knob.

Important note, once you see a LTFT correction other then 0 as your doing this fine tuning, reset your ECU and start again.