2g Fwd Auto to Manual Swap
Parts list:
Manual Tranny – with clutch fork
Clutch/flywheel (also need new flywheel bolts - the ones you are going to
take off the auto are too short)
Shifter Cables/ shifter
Pedals (brake and clutch)
Master cylinder and slave cylinder
Clutch line (personally I would go with Slowboy on this one or just make
your own SS Line. The stock line is just going to be a pain...)
New speed sensor (the auto one is to long)
New tranny brackets, you will also need the hole left tranny mount.(the auto
brackets that bolt to the mounts are different)
Personally I would start inside the car. Tear out the old brake pedal, auto
shifter ect. You can also go ahead and remove the auto trans. ecu - it will
be sitting against the fire wall behind the radio, behind the engine ecu.
Once you have all the auto parts out of the car (pedal/shifter/ecu/shift
cables) you will be left with one cable. This is the cable that allows you
to remove your keys from your ignition once the car is in park. I just
pushed the cable in and taped it there. Next I'd put in your new shifter
cables and shifter assembly. After that I'd go and tackle the pedals. The
new brake pedal will bolt right up...In my car (96Tsi) I pulled out a
section of carpet and the holes for the Clutch were already there, but you
will have to cut out a section for the master cylinder to come through the
fire wall. This is pretty simple as there are dimples in the fire wall that
let you know were it should go. Once you have that drilled out, mount the
clutch pedal and master cylinder (the holes for the master cylinder
reservoir should be there already).
Under the hood I'd start by removing the old trans. torque converter and
drive plate. Bolt in the new flywheel clutch and new trans. This is all
pretty simple nothing you will have to modify. Mount the slave cylinder and
run the clutch line. Don't forget to bleed the line. Next the shifter cables
- attach them to the trans. Now the cv joints can be tricky. I've heard lots
of stories where people tried to use there old cv joints or axles and they
didn't fit...mine did so if your lucky yours will also. I used synchromesh
by Pennzoil for the tranny fluid. 2 1/2 quarts. The only thing you will have
to do with the wiring is jump your inhibitor switch. It's simple, it's the
biggest connector you will have left that will not plug in to anything all
you do is take a wire and jump the two black wires.. They are located in the
center row the first and last wire in that row.
Other than that its break in time...500 miles no launching
If I missed anything or have any questions just pm me.
From Thesickness and Dreamon
*EDIT* I get alot of questions on the 2G N/Ts this swap was done on a 4g63 Fwd sorry i can not answer questions on the N/T models.
Parts list:
Manual Tranny – with clutch fork
Clutch/flywheel (also need new flywheel bolts - the ones you are going to
take off the auto are too short)
Shifter Cables/ shifter
Pedals (brake and clutch)
Master cylinder and slave cylinder
Clutch line (personally I would go with Slowboy on this one or just make
your own SS Line. The stock line is just going to be a pain...)
New speed sensor (the auto one is to long)
New tranny brackets, you will also need the hole left tranny mount.(the auto
brackets that bolt to the mounts are different)
Personally I would start inside the car. Tear out the old brake pedal, auto
shifter ect. You can also go ahead and remove the auto trans. ecu - it will
be sitting against the fire wall behind the radio, behind the engine ecu.
Once you have all the auto parts out of the car (pedal/shifter/ecu/shift
cables) you will be left with one cable. This is the cable that allows you
to remove your keys from your ignition once the car is in park. I just
pushed the cable in and taped it there. Next I'd put in your new shifter
cables and shifter assembly. After that I'd go and tackle the pedals. The
new brake pedal will bolt right up...In my car (96Tsi) I pulled out a
section of carpet and the holes for the Clutch were already there, but you
will have to cut out a section for the master cylinder to come through the
fire wall. This is pretty simple as there are dimples in the fire wall that
let you know were it should go. Once you have that drilled out, mount the
clutch pedal and master cylinder (the holes for the master cylinder
reservoir should be there already).
Under the hood I'd start by removing the old trans. torque converter and
drive plate. Bolt in the new flywheel clutch and new trans. This is all
pretty simple nothing you will have to modify. Mount the slave cylinder and
run the clutch line. Don't forget to bleed the line. Next the shifter cables
- attach them to the trans. Now the cv joints can be tricky. I've heard lots
of stories where people tried to use there old cv joints or axles and they
didn't fit...mine did so if your lucky yours will also. I used synchromesh
by Pennzoil for the tranny fluid. 2 1/2 quarts. The only thing you will have
to do with the wiring is jump your inhibitor switch. It's simple, it's the
biggest connector you will have left that will not plug in to anything all
you do is take a wire and jump the two black wires.. They are located in the
center row the first and last wire in that row.
Other than that its break in time...500 miles no launching
If I missed anything or have any questions just pm me.
From Thesickness and Dreamon
*EDIT* I get alot of questions on the 2G N/Ts this swap was done on a 4g63 Fwd sorry i can not answer questions on the N/T models.
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