2G clutch line fitting

[assault187]

Let me start by saying I have searched for this answer on the forum but had no positve results, Found 1 person stating a size but it was never confirmed...



My car has been down for a week beacuse I need a new clutch line in order to finish what im doing....clearance issues with a self bent clutch line. I want to be certain (since local speed shops and auto parts stores are'nt) of what size the fitting is on the CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER and down low where it turns onto the rubber line by the tranny. I think its 3/16 fitting but no one I have talked to is certain what the size it is.

to make things simple Think of it as replacing the entire hard steel line from master to the rubber line...what size fittings are on each side???

Some tell me there both 3/16, some 1/8th, some say its metric, standard and so on....I want the car up and running by saturday so the info would be great!

 

[snowborder714]

I would try calling SBR as they sell a SS line to replace the hard line (http://www.slowboyracing.com/estore/product.php?productid=3886&cat=5303&page=1).

 

[DGajre777]

Don't know the sizes, but is there a reason why you are trying to re-invent the wheel?

There are 2 types of clutch lines:
1) The one that replaces the rubber line and the accumulator
2) The one that replaces the entire line from the master cyl to the slave.

Unless your stock line is leaking, what is the point of replacing a hard metal line and keeping the rubber line in there? And if you are just replacing the stock line and don't want to replace the rubber line (I don't see why you wouldn't), then just get a factory line from Mitsubishi.

As stated above SBR, is the only company that I know of that makes a complete SS line for DSMs. Here is the link - http://www.slowboyracing.com/estore/product.php?productid=3886. Just get the entire line and get it over with.

 

[absolute_DSM]

The slave cylinder fitting should be a M10x1.00 thread and the master cylinder should be a M10x1.25. The ID of the line should be 3/16" ID in which 6 ft of -4AN teflon lined SS line will suffice. (although -3AN is about 3/16")

I use a 180* on the slave cylinder and a 90* on the master cylinder. Both steel fittings.

Check www.anplumbing.com for part numbers and good prices. Call them with what you want to do and they will even build it for you.

 

[assault187]

Don't know the sizes, but is there a reason why you are trying to re-invent the wheel?

There are 2 types of clutch lines:
1) The one that replaces the rubber line and the accumulator
2) The one that replaces the entire line from the master cyl to the slave.

Unless your stock line is leaking, what is the point of replacing a hard metal line and keeping the rubber line in there? And if you are just replacing the stock line and don't want to replace the rubber line (I don't see why you wouldn't), then just get a factory line from Mitsubishi.

As stated above SBR, is the only company that I know of that makes a complete SS line for DSMs. Here is the link - http://www.slowboyracing.com/estore/product.php?productid=3886

Re-invent the wheel??... Im cutting a corner for the time being
I have the -4 SS line already. I need to know what size for the adapter fittings -3 to what?? Am I correct with 3/16?
As I stated, I need it for clearence issues . If it makes you happy I'll replace the entire line but thats besides the point. I asked if anyone was certain on the fitting size needed to thread out of the master clutch cylinder. Simple question simple answer.

Excuse me while I find alternate means of making fire...

 

[treebonker]

You can use -AN male to 3/8-24(10x1.0mm) inverted flare male brake adpaters for the master cylinder and the rubber hose.

Unless you have reasons to retain the rubber line/reservior assy just bypass all that and connect it directly to the slave cylinder with a 3/8-24 banjo fitting. The stock banjo bolt is too tall so you'll need to get a 10x1.0mm banjo bolt as well. There weren't any total replacement lines at the time so I mocked up my own and have been using it for 3~4 years now w/o any issues. The fittings arent cheap so you might want to consider buying the prefab'd line as suggested above.

 

[DGajre777]

Re-invent the wheel??... Im cutting a corner for the time being
I have the -4 SS line already. I need to know what size for the adapter fittings -3 to what?? Am I correct with 3/16?
As I stated, I need it for clearence issues . If it makes you happy I'll replace the entire line but thats besides the point. I asked if anyone was certain on the fitting size needed to thread out of the master clutch cylinder. Simple question simple answer.

Excuse me while I find alternate means of making fire...

It is a half ass way of doing it. Do some research on the purpose of replacing the rubber line and you'll see what I'm talking about. But your car, your money... do as you please.

 

[absolute_DSM]

You can use -AN male to 3/8-24(10x1.0mm) inverted flare male brake adpaters for the master cylinder and the rubber hose.

Unless you have reasons to retain the rubber line/reservior assy just bypass all that and connect it directly to the slave cylinder with a 3/8-24 banjo fitting. The stock banjo bolt is too tall so you'll need to get a 10x1.0mm banjo bolt as well. There weren't any total replacement lines at the time so I mocked up my own and have been using it for 3~4 years now w/o any issues. The fittings arent cheap so you might want to consider buying the prefab'd line as suggested above.

You seem to know whats right, does what I mention in post 4 seem correct?

 

[treebonker]

1.25mm pitch will not fit on the m-cyl and you need to use an inverted flare fitting commonly used in brake lines for a tight seal. For the line size -4 AN would be the way to go. As most -3 AN Teflon lined SS braided hose will have a similar I.D to the stock line but the nipple on the hose end has a much smaller hole. You should use a 90' hose end to dodge the reservior bracket at the m-cyl and whatever end for the s-cyl depending on how you want to route the line.

 

[assault187]

It is a half ass way of doing it. Do some research on the purpose of replacing the rubber line and you'll see what I'm talking about. But your car, your money... do as you please.

You MUST be dislexic, I dont care about the "performance factor" This is only to get the proper clearance so my battery will fit back in the engine bay since intalling a SMIM, The old cluthline was bent by me, afer the SMIM I couldnt fit the battery back in the engine bay with out sitting on the clutch line. I know the benifits ...Im no stranger to DSM's thanks for nothing.... I dont see the problem with using SS line I ALREADY HAVE (FREE) picking up 2 fittings to get this thing going, and afterwards I could Use a union and replace from the rubber part to slave...hmmm...sure saves me $75 huh...
There is ALWAYS more then one way to do things...1 piece or 2 peice $75 or $16 who the hell cares.

Anyways treebonker thanks for the input! It IS a 3/8 by 24 I appreciate your help. Now I can get this pig back on the road by tommorrow afternoon.

sorry to be But all I needed was an answer.

 

[george louis]

The slave cylinder fitting should be a M10x1.00 thread and the master cylinder should be a M10x1.25. The ID of the line should be 3/16" ID in which 6 ft of -4AN teflon lined SS line will suffice. (although -3AN is about 3/16")

I use a 180* on the slave cylinder and a 90* on the master cylinder. Both steel fittings.

La del cilindro maestro es de m10x1.0 estás equivocado en decir q es m10x1.25
(The one of the master cylinder is m10x1.0 you are wrong in saying that it is m10x1.25)