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Resolved 2G AWD Fuel Sending Unit Plug Removal

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Pale Horse

10+ Year Contributor
62
0
Oct 8, 2011
Williamsport, Pennsylvania
Hey guys,

Trying to remove the white plug from my fuel sending unit in order to have AN fittings welded on. I can see the underneath where it appears the metal is "pinching" or holding onto the white plastic receptacle but any attempt to "unpinch" it by bending the metal with a flathead just gouges the receptacle.

Any ideas?
 
It's a bit of a bastard, but it can be done. We've tried several methods, but we've had the most success drilling the pinches out. (In our case, we "cheat" by using a flat-tipped drill so that there's no drill point to dig into the plastic). But really, anything that will remove the metal surrounding the pinch without destroying the plastic is fair game. By the way, the connector seals on an o-ring near the top, so you're not destroying any seal by drilling out those "pinches".
 
I've been trying to bend the pinches out and haven't had any luck. I'm using eyeglass screwdrivers and tiny flatheads. Insane20 what did you use? This metal is relatively thin but it's still fighting me pretty good.
 
I've never been able to bend the metal pinches. I've tried several times and failed always. Drilling them isn't a bad idea though. I might try that the next time.

In the past, I've ground out some of the plastic to allow the plug to come out. And when reinstalling it, for retention, I simply JB Welded it back in. I've never had an issue with this method even though I wouldn't mind finding a better way to do it.
 
Paul, I was actually considering grinding down the plastic as well. I've been digging at this thing for over two hours and I don't think I've bent it so much as 1*.
 
Well, I got it off. I tried for three hours to bend the pinches out with everything I could fit in there to no avail. Drilled them out and it came out without a fight.

Deburred the inside below the O-ring sealing surface. I will JB weld the bottom of it once I reassemble it, though the O-ring should suffice by itself. I knicked up the connector as well a little bit with the drill but but it's nothing major, it will still function 100%.

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No doubt, I was trying to be careful but the drill bit didn't stop haha. Thanks for the advice man. AN fittings are being welded as I type this!
 
Can you post a pic of said tool?
I suppose, but that'll only tell you part of the story. At least as important is that the sending unit be held absolutely firmly and that the mechanism spinning the tool be absolutely firm and capable of spinning the tool at the appropriate speed. If any one of those three is missing, it will show in the results. In this case, the equivalent of fancy drill press was used.
 
I'm sure Paul's looks a lot better than mine but you don't necessarily need all that. Just be careful when drilling. I tore mine up a little bit but it didn't affect the plug at all. Where the pinches are, the plug is extra thick so you can hit the plastic and not phase the plug. Obviously I was trying not to but with a hand drill, a sharp bit and holding the sender with my left hand it was the best I could do.
 
Of course I realize that not everyone has access to fancy tools and fancy machines and Pale Horse is absolutely correct that the plug has lots of meat and much of its structure is not essential to sealing or electrics or anything else, so there's really no need to get fancy, other than for aesthetics.
 
The tool I used is called either an end mill or a slot drill (which are more or less the same thing). They come in all kinds of different sizes, styles, materials, etc, but (for example) a high-speed steel, 3/8" diameter, 2-flute (or 4-flute) slot drill/end mill would work fine. Any industrial machining supply shop would carry them.
 
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