2g alternator pinout

[dwdsm]

Doing a wire tuck and almost finished but.... whoops I cut out the alternator relay and now have no idea on what my options are for wiring up the black/yellow wire and the red wire from the alternator plug. From what I have seen just the red is to 12v ign. and the black isn't needed because it's the dummy light. Any help would be great.

 

[luv2rallye]

Usually wierd things happening is either a bad ground somewhere or a partial short. Disconnect battery and unbolt engine fusebox and look at the wire nest underneath. Sometimes fuses blowing or wierd stuff is due to wires shorting under here to other wires or to metal or just melted.

 

[dwdsm]

I found the problem to the fuel pump. I had a hot black/w white stripe going to the ground on the ignitor module. That's why it was getting hot. I'll have to test it to see if it's fried..

 

[dwdsm]

OK now as far as I can tell no spark and that's it!I'll check the wiring and hopefully will find the problem. I have the old green top cas. I have it wired red power, black ground, yellow to crank angle sensor pin, and white to cam angle sensor pin.

 

[gofer]

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[dwdsm]

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[dwdsm]

I have a choice of 3 blue wires on the back of the dash harness that go to the left inst cluster connection. Not sure where to connect it. The good news is thanks to both of you and all your help, the car is now running and everything is looking good! The alt wire is the last connection I need to make.
-OK just realized that I could look up the wiring dia for the alt relay and figure out witch of the 3 it is. I'll try that but will then need to see if it's working. Not sure how I'll do that.

 

[dwdsm]

All is wired! Starting putting it back together enough to drive it around today!

 

[gofer]

Good to hear Dave, I assume its RESOLVED then?!

 

[dwdsm]

Good to hear Dave, I assume its RESOLVED then?!

yes, yes, and well, no. The car is back together mostly and I drove it a few miles this weekend. So yes but it's breaking up so bad at 8psi (around 4,000 rpm) that I need to do a boost leak test and while I'm at it throw in another o2 sensor. I also have my doubts that the knock sensor working due to not getting any knock when it broke up. I tried hitting the back of the block with a wrench while logging to see if that would set it off but no luck. I doubt it can pick up that frequency of sound. At least it's running so that's half the battle! I'll have to post a pic because it look nice and clean.

 

[GAMEOVER]

any updates? this thread has helped me.

 

[dwdsm]

yes actually, I need to be better when I've resolved things to type follow ups! I'll finish this post tonite with some pictures and such.

 

[dwdsm]

OK well a bit late but here is an engine bay pic.
I do however still have issues. The car is missing no matter how much fuel I throw at it. It also is throwing a code cyclinder 3 missfire after a half hour or so of just cruising. When it throws the code it will shut down cyc 3 and run the other cyclinders super lean. I have no idea... Injectors are on their way to FIC to get checked as we speak. Hopefully sitting for a year #3 injector got gummed up or stuck somehow.

 

[dwdsm]

Got word from FIC today. Notta, zero, zilch... crap. So the injectors are fine and now I need to find out what the hell the issue is.
I'm going to swap ecu's next.
Then boost leak test again.
swap MAS.
Then tear back into wiring harness.

 

[gofer]

The ECU's injector drivers rarely go bad, actually come to think of it I don't think I've ever seen a case of it here or on link forums. I'd check the resistance/wire integrity coming from your injector resistor pack (silver rectangle) mounted on the firewall behind the intake manifold. I say wire integrity because the way the harness comes out of the resistor pack is a bit strange and its pretty common for those wires to be crimped at a weird angle causing an intermittent connection.

 

[dwdsm]

I was thinking about it today and I would think that it has to be. A. A leak after the MAS, however this is unlikely because one cylinder is different then the others and from the plugs it's rich not lean. So unless there is a dead rat stuck in one of the runners then that couldn't be it.
B. A disruption in signal to the injectors, specifically #3, could be ECU (although as gofer stated super unlikely), could be many of the other electrical components. I did touch a hot wire from the alternator to the coil pack accidentally one time. Roasted an igniter, which was an expensive mistake. That is what happens when someone helps you and you both thought the other one went back and disconnected the battery!
C. A possibility of spark being weak in #3 causing a rich condition in one cylinder.
The ECU I think is seeing a lean car over all and compensating until the point one cylinder is so rich it shuts down. Maybe that's why when I shut the car off it resets and runs properly at cruise for a while.

~I've checked and resealed the manifold.
~I've checked the signals at the injectors.
~I've boost leak tested.
~I've bench tested the coils.
What's next?
Could all the regular grounds sharing one grounding bar make a difference?
I will retrace the grounds and power wires and make a wiring layout to post here when I get a chance.

 

[gofer]

Test your ignition suppression resistor or more commonly known as the injector resistor box with a multimeter before you start chasing wiring...
Check resistance between the following pins at the connector, a reading from 5.5-6.5 ohms is what your looking for.

-Pin 1 to Pin 3
-Pin 4 to Pin 3
-Pin 5 to Pin 3
-Pin 6 to Pin 3​

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[dwdsm]

Test your ignition suppression resistor or more commonly known as the injector resistor box with a multimeter before you start chasing wiring...
Check resistance between the following pins at the connector, a reading from 5.5-6.5 ohms is what your looking for.

-Pin 1 to Pin 3
-Pin 4 to Pin 3
-Pin 5 to Pin 3
-Pin 6 to Pin 3​

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I tested the resistor box (the male plug/not the one shown) and all pins showed between 6.3 and 6.5 ohms.

 

[dwdsm]

Ok, i went for a cruise tonite and the car was running great... untill I actually needed some fuel under boost that is.... So I drove it untill it dropped it's #3 cyclinder and tested each plug wire for spark. They are all working so that's not it. I tried to swap ecu's but apperently the v3 cable doesn't like to work with an old v2.5 ecu. ?? So it's not the injectors, It's not ignition, I may swap the resistor pack with my buddies.. then it's either wiring or ECU. unless the MAS could be doing this but I would think it would throw a code. Iguess it's at least narrowing down.

 

[dwdsm]

To further update.. I tried swapping ecus with my friends and I could get my laptop to link up. apperently the v3 cable doesn't like v2.5. hell, I don't know.
I did swap out resistor packs and notta.
worthy of note, I had my turbo timer burn out along with the wideband set up popping the small 1v fuse I had in there. I upped it to a 5v and it seems fine now. I haven't checked the timer fuse yet.
I took a couple of logs and I'll put them up on the ecmlink site.

 

[dwdsm]

ahhh it's fixed! All this time it was the coil. It tested fine but was not working under load! Thanks Calan!