The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2G 6Bolt Swap Spark/Cas Questions

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

XiKeiyaZI

15+ Year Contributor
6,994
88
Dec 28, 2008
Goldsboro, North Carolina
So yesterday I swapped out my stock cams for a 264/272 Combo setup. The car idles fine, though it doesn't lope like I expected. Sounds more like a random miss. I also noticed something odd -

On coil packs, as I'm aware, the order is 4-1-2-3. I know there is a change in the 6 bolt swap where you swap plug wires, but I also have Link.

In order for the car to run, I have to swap my 1 and 2 plug wires reverse. So technically it's like I'm running 4-2-1-3. I've always felt the car should have more power than it does, but today I let it hit a little boost and it cut out like I had a HORRIBLE boost leak. There shouldn't be a reason for this just from changing cams, correct? Timing is dead on, everything looks fine. About to do a compression test.

What I'm curious about is - Could my CAS be 180* out and my 1 and 2 plug wires be backwards? I need a little insight, if possible.

Thanks.
 
So let me make sure i understand this correct.

With Link set for "Use Non CAS" and the plug wires setup in reverse - 3-2-1-4 as shown in the diagram.. do I still need to swap wires at the ECU harness?
 
Hey did you put link in at the same time as those cams? Sounds like it, may want to tune the car for best results. Also that degree combo doesn't produce too much of a lob for me either.
 
Link has been in for about 4 months. I've been able to get the base idle set - save for my ISC position - and it no longer hesitates. About to do that compression test.
 
We're looking at 155ish on the low side, and 170 on the high cylinders. Compression is GREAT in the cars.

Certainly not timing. =/
 
You need to swap more wires. the original 41-23 should be 32-41. Try that see if that makes it any better.

The wires that were on coil A must now be on coil B and vice versa. Order shouldnt matter too much just that they swap sides.
 
Gotcha missed that.

Plug wires, I have been seeing alot of cars with plug wires going bad. Like pulling a wire and seeing it spark in the spark plug well but not spark to the plug. Just from pulling them out and doing the plug swap you were talking about and then being bad.

Autozone or advance should had NGK wires for your car. I buy the 1g wires since they are $30 cheaper and a few inches longer.
 
Haven't done a plug wire change in a while, might as well do that. It's always a good investment.

As for a BLT, I'll have to hold off on that until I can get my hands on a compressor. I'll being going over all the couplers. I'm just glad I didn't tweak a valve. Then again, engine was free-spinning by hand, so there was never any contact anyhow.
 
BLT is still pending. I checked my ignition timing and I made a major mistake. I timed it from the CAMS and lined up the timing marks to be dead even. So I was, I assume, at 0? I advanced it a bit today during my lunch time and noticed that it didn't hesitate at take off near as bad. Once it peaks a bit, say over 2300, it wants to pull like a train. As it was before, it hesitated and stuttered up to 3-4k as if it wasn't getting fuel. Changing my ignition timing has helped this. I suppose I should have expected this considering I have larger than stock cams.

What should I be seeing at idle via Link?
 
As long as you lined up the inner timing marks on the cams and the dowel pins were at 12 o'clock, then you timed it right.

Do you have adjustable cam gears? Is that what you advanced? Or did you move the CAS? Did you remember to ground timing via link before checking?

I think link reads between 8* and 14* (or so) of timing at idle.
 
I'm talking ignition timing. I know my mechanical timing is right. Both through practice, patience, experience doing that dreaded but simple task, and my compression numbers. I made sure to ground the Timing pin via Link before changing it. Once it was where I thought it should be, I tightened the CAS and unground the pin.

I'll slap link back up when I get home and get a log. I think my timing is a bit too retarded for this setup.
 
Because.......I......completely forgot how the proper way to do it was. -cough-
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top