20 degrees of timing

[DSM_JAY]

So after a boost leak test, rebuilding the throttle body, replacing the throttle body gaskets, putting in a known good IAC, Brand new TPS, retiming the motor which helped alot had 12in/hg of vacuum now almost 19. I have 20 degrees of timing and 1400 rpms and unning rich at idle. It doesnt mater what i do, adjust TPS, biss screw, throttle stop, this dam thing just adjusts itslef back to 1400 rpms and 20 degrees of timing instantly. The IAT and the ECT are reading fine, they were my first thought after everything else. I did also see what it would do when I put it in drive, the rpm's fell to like 900 and it kinda felt like it wanted to die runnng realy rough. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!

 

[gofer]

Whats your WB look like at idle and after you put it in drive?

 

[DSM_JAY]

bounces between 11 and 12.5

 

[gofer]

I guess I should have included this in my first post but in your logger whats your front o2 reading in volts (it should cycle between .2 & .8) and your MAF reading in Hz (it should be around 35 & 40)

 

[DSM_JAY]

Well my logger decided to stop working on me about two weeks ago so all i have are PIDs frm my scanner. and front O2 sensor bounces from .060-.760 and unfortunately it only gives me a gr/sec on the maf and thats 5.70 I dont even know if you can convert that. all these readings are at idle in park

 

[gofer]

Your mods list is next to empty so an updated one would benefit for sure.

Your front o2 sensor should be cycling, try unplugging the damn thing while its idling and see if your idle changes at all... it might be keeping your car in open loop and running rich. If unplugging your front o2 sensor changed your idle try unplugging your MAF, of course after you plug the o2 sensor back in, and see if it changes anything. If both of these CHANGE your idle I'm going to guess your running a walbro 255 fp and the stock fpr and experiencing over run?

Thats too bad your logger stopped working, its going to be alittle harder to T/S but its still do able.

 

[DSM_JAY]

Not much to add in the way of mods, there is no AFPR however have never looked at the pump ive never changed it but i took it out and is ther anyway to tell if its a 190 or 255. its a 6 bolt head on a 7bolt block, adj cam gears at 0, I just installed them. not running a MAP sensor , I did the Taboo speed shop Vacuum delete. However The idea of the FPR got me thinking mayb its just bad anyhow. Seein as how I will wait for an answer on the pump I cant start it yet when I do I will try pulling the O2 sensor and maf, and I will get back to you

UPDATE... I did some research on m own, hunted around for part numbers after I took my fuel pump out. I went to a few websites and found part numbers for both the 190 and 255 pump, and I have the 255, never knew it. The past owner put it in and never told me. I never thought to check it. By the way if anybody come across this the 255 part number is GSS342 the 190 is GSS250. so I will update everybody as soon as i can find a fuel pump.

 

[gofer]

Don't get a fuel pump, the fuel pump you've gots working perfectly fine. You need to get a adjustable fuel pressure regulator (afpr) because your stock ones being over ran.

Good job tracking down the P/N's of the walbro fuel pumps by the way, its not too bad once you start looking.
Walbro 190: GSS250 or GSS278
Walbro 255: GSS315 or GSS317
Walbro 255 HP: GSS341

 

[DSM_JAY]

But the fuel pump is cheaper than the regulator, Aeromotive anyway I dont wunna buy junk. wont getting the stock pump fix the problem. Unless I missed something.

 

[gofer]

I guess not, your just going backwards then most on this site since its a tuning site. I've got no problem with you rocking it stock though, go for it and get a stock pump... Just be aware that it might not necessarily fix the over run issue if the fpr is completely shot. A 1g fpr will work on your 2g fuel rail FYI and its less susceptible to over run too however I still wouldn't run it with a 255 fp.

 

[DSM_JAY]

No I understand the idea behind the fuel pressure regulator bt i need the car for the morning the pump was easier to get at the time. It did in fact work though, I think has a slight over run probably due to the stock FPR getting a work out. although after 5 minutes of running it started missfiring again and then the alternator took a shit, good thing I had a spare. I do however want to thank you for your time, I have my car back thanks to you. And at some point if you dont mind im put up there in my friends list.

 

[gofer]

You said you had a spare alternator however, the 2g OEM is only a 60A. Most cases DSM'rs will modify a Saturn alternator by grinding their block and doing a rewire to get a higher amp alternator on their car to keep the headlights from dimming when the blinkers on, etc. etc. If you go to a parts store and order a '97 Galant A/T alternator it will bolt & plug PERFECTLY in place on your 2g like OEM but its 90A rather than the weak 2g 60A. Just a trick I learned from a good friend...

I enjoy helping fellow DSM'rs around the site since thats what has made my car last over the years.

 

[DSM_JAY]

And when I put the 97 galant alternator on it wont have any bad or adverse effecvts on the car at all, cause i was thinking I do have a stereo so the added amps would be nice