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2.4 remain crankshaft 6 bolt

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Majority of discussion I've personally found suggests that the undercut cranks cut through most of the surface hardening that the factory applies. If you are just wanting a solid street motor that makes better low end torque then a comparable 2.0 then you are probably fine, but if you are planning on making some serious power (500hp+) you may want to find one out of a motor that was running and doesn't need work. I got mine from a Mitsu/Chrysler specialist junkyard in CA for about $250 shipped which is close to what a turned/reconditioned crank costs anyways. At the very least, if you are going to use a crank that has been turned down, don't use the shitty bearings they include. Find some tri metal ACLs that have been sized appropriately. The guys that run the 2.3l's hard actually buy two sets of the grooved race bearings so that they can have a full groove setup around the whole journal. GL with the build!
 
I would not run a cut crank. Many choose not to. Its a gamble, just put it that way. Im sure plenty have had luck but when you're dealing with such an important part why risk the chance the machinist or the crank cutter(?) got the specs off just a bit. I had this happen to me my first build. Machinist sent the crank to be cut and somebody dropped the ball. 300 miles, maybe less, and rod 3 started a-knockin again. We've all been through those moments, they suck. Especially when a new crank isnt that much


As stated: It has and WILL work fine for many people. Those of us who have had a raw deal with a cut crank are spooked by them!
 
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Ive been running mine hard and don't think twice about it, I chose to go this route and use some good bearings, just because and some said don't do it but hell ive done lots of things with my dsm others said wasn't a good idea glad I followed my intuition with 20 years of, research and just doing it, glad I went this route, especially when you don't have time to look for parts.
 
well a 2.4 remain 6 crank at my cost will only be 170 shipped to my store, and comes with a warranty. I have a slow boys gt14 that has been ported so on race gas I am looking at 500 whp. I will be ordering a acl race bearning
 
There is a difference in running a cut 2.0 crank, and a cut 2.4 crank. 2.4 cranks already have breakage issues because of not enough journal overlap. When you cut even more material off the journals, you get even less overlap.

I had to buy a whole 80's galant g64b engine to find a used 2.4 crank. It's getting to the point where an aftermarket 2.4 crank is the only option for a 6 bolt.
 
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