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2.4 Liter G4CS build thread

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Atuca

Supporting Member
1,145
303
Jan 6, 2007
Central Valley, California
Well I know it isn't what you guys who deal with it all the time would consider amazing, but it snowed for the first time in 15 years in cities around california this past week. Its been COLD! :|

But I did still try and get some work done. Defying the cold with the light from my craftsman lamp, I finally got the firewall respectable. It isn't perfect, but after hours of scrubbing with goo gone, cleaning the brush and the residue, and repeating, I think I may have to call it good. At the point you can see goo, it is high enough up that the dash would be in its way quite a bit. I mean look at how much goo gone is left. I bought the bottom for the sole task of cleaning the residue form the sound deadening, and now half the bottle is gone. BUT, it worked!

I also did some work on the Thottle Body. I swapped over the TPS from the 2g TB onto the 1g. I noticed that the 2g TPS had 4 wires, instead of the 3 the 1g had. I guessed that is what the one wire "sensor" was on the throttle cable stop on the 1g was for. I am not sure if this is used in conjunction with the BISS screw for adjusting idle, but I will probably substitute it with a screw just for a cleaner look instead of a unplugged in connector. I also gotta figure out if I want to bypass the FIAV or not. I will have to do more research on what I am going to do about eliminating the heater core to give the coolant a way to go when the thermostat is closed. I think the FIAV might be a way the coolant can go?

I couldn't find the speaker plugs for the dash on a junk yard car in the months I looked. So I got the idea to modify the speakers for the same use. I got some out of a junk car and went at it with a dremel. Simple, and effective. I also got some inserts for the fog lights switch, cruise control, defroster switches from an unequiped junk jard car as well. I will paint them black before they go in.

I think I am basicly done with the interior rewire. I rewired the fuel pump again, moving the actuator next to the seat belt, and running just the wires through the stock gormet. As part of the rewire I removed all the wiring not needed anymore by the fuel pump. I also removed the wiring for the fuel tank pressure sensor (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...ns-equipment-under-driver-seat-connector.html). It really is nice getting rid of all that useless wire.

I also got an FP 255 fuel pump for 50 bucks during the black friday sale. I am not sure if I am going to use this or not, but for the price I wanted to at least have it in my opinion and ponder. Opinions appareciated: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/356516-forced-performance-255-fuel-pump.html

Then I worked on cleaning up some valve covers, my 1g fuel rail, trying to fix my shifter (which if I can manage to come up with a solution I will post entirely on it...) and that is it. I am starting to run out of things to waste time on for "free" work. I am going to have to get working on my engine one of these days :)

Until next time!
 
Looking good! You got me thinking about the 2.4, maybe in the future.
 
atuca said:
I also did some work on the Thottle Body. I swapped over the TPS from the 2g TB onto the 1g. I noticed that the 2g TPS had 4 wires, instead of the 3 the 1g had. I guessed that is what the one wire "sensor" was on the throttle cable stop on the 1g was for. I am not sure if this is used in conjunction with the BISS screw for adjusting idle, but I will probably substitute it with a screw just for a cleaner look instead of a unplugged in connector. I also gotta figure out if I want to bypass the FIAV or not. I will have to do more research on what I am going to do about eliminating the heater core to give the coolant a way to go when the thermostat is closed. I think the FIAV might be a way the coolant can go?

I thought I explained this to you the other day!

The 4 wire TPS has nothing to do with BISS and adjusting idle. You'll just use the BISS screw - that's it.

Good luck finding a screw to replace the idle switch sensor. I can't figure out what thread pitch it is, as I've wanted to tap some of the holes in ones I've rebuilt. I just broke off the metal tab to make it look cleaner.

I told you my suggestion on keeping the FIAV and utilize the ISC. However, if you're not doing cold starts, then it might not be as bad. The worst case scenario is you block it off, have issues, and have to reinstall it. The block off/bypass plates are pretty cheap (I forget company I recommend off hand). I'd probably do the coolant thing as Eric mentioned in his thread.
 
How did you just break off the tab? Doesn't the tab hold the sensor and act as a stop for the throttle cable?

I figured since you can screw the sensor more or less through the tab there, it could be used to adjust the idle, but than again that could make the throttle always open even with your foot off the gas.

Guess I didn't think that one through. :ohdamn:
 
Just bend the tab back and forth once or twice and it should snap off at the base very easily.

The tab just sticks out of the sensor and only acts as an electrical connection. The other end of the idle switch is the throttle stop (the black end). It holds the throttle cable bracket open just enough to keep it from sticking after you go from WOT to shut in an instant.

This should be one of the last things you install after you rebuild. You thread it in, adjust it, then tighten down the nut that's on it.



I told you to just send it to me and I'd rebuild it :p
 
What a salesman!

Only reason I am working on this kinda stuff is because I am trying to hold off machining my engine. I know soon as I do that and start putting the engine together I am gonna find more things I gotta spend more money on.

Its a never ending spiral of doom! ROFL
 
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