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2.0 to 2.4

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dcprimo

Probationary Member
1
0
May 23, 2008
hatboro, Pennsylvania
i have a 94 nt 2.0l dohc and someone had suggested to me to swap out my head for a newer 2.4l head... has anyone heard of this and or have any info on doing so?
 
I dont know right off... But I think I read before that there are oil or water passages that differ from the 4g63 and 4g64 head/block. And that the 4g64 head was a few milimeters shorter than the 46g3. I am not too sure if there is too much info about doing the swap but I'm sure the Search feature may yeild something.
 
I don't think that a 4g64 dohc head will fit on a 2.0 block.
I know that they swap (i did it also) 4g63 block to a 4g64 block, but the 4g64 block has 5 oil drain holes on the block, and the 4g63 doesn't.
So i don't think a 2.4 head works on the 4g63 2.0
Corect me if i'm wrong
 
What would be the point of this? Most of the displacement if from the bore and stroke, not the head. Putting a 2.4 head on a 2.0 block wont change your displacement at all if any if it worked. Thats my main point. You will still be a 2.0 whether is single or dual cammed your wont see any gains.
You'll be better off with a turbo intake cam, exhaustmani, oilpan, water pipe, waterneck, throttlebody, elbo, IC pipes, Sidemount, downpipe, and turbo.
 
To be honest with you the 4g63 DOHC head has bigger intake ports than the 4g64 so it would be best to use it rather than swapping. If you had a 4g64 block I could see a reason for putting the 4g63 head on it but vise-versa the point would be moot.
 
Yes people have dont the 64 block with a 63 head. But they seem to have alot of headgasket issues. Best bet would be a 63 2.0 block with a 64 crank anbd a 63 head. 2.3 stroker ftw!
 
I bought an entire 2.4L Stroker build unassembled. It is a 7 bolt 2G series. FFWD and SBR both claim this engine will handle, hold up to 900HP !!! FTW !! :)

Now to find a 4088.
 
good for you, back on topic. To the OP, It really woulnt be worth it to do all this to a 1GNT, you'll be better off selling it and buying a Turbo 1G becuase they all are nearly the same price. They cost and headache of turboing your 1gnt or swapping heads, you could of boght one already turboed.
 
ive been on this mad quest to find a 6-bolt 4g64... i was thinkin on jus settling for the 7-bolt but im fearin the crankwalk. plus the older 6-bolts are a lot stronger than the 7-bolts anyway...
 
Eh... No.. You're wrong. Do some more research. I wouldnt be putting a 7 bolt 4g64 crank in my engine if that were the case.

I wouldnt be building a 7 bolt stroker engine if that were the case (also).
 
yes the only car with a 4g64 DOHC was the 1994 GS but it is very rare and i have only seen one.

even N/A the head swap from SOHC to DOHC gives you a little power, it opens up the air flow. but is it worth the trouble for about 20-25 HP no not really. cost effective would be turbo or get a turbo car.

just because the 2g came with their crankwalking 7 bolts, doesn't mean the 7 bolt cranks suck. i know my 7 bolt crank in my galant doesn't have a problem. people have run over 350hp on the 4g64 7 bolt crank

and one of the best variation or the motors is the 64 bottom end and the 63 head. 2.4l of seriously mean motor. only down side is iy can't rev like a 4G63.


but back to the op, it's not going to do anything if you change the head to the 64 it's piontless.
 
The crankwalk issue wasnt even about the crank. People seem to think the crankshaft was the cause/reason of the crankwalk. It basically is a simple term used for failure of the thrust bearing which causes the crank to waller and allow it to "walk". Some claim using better bearings fix it, others claim adding a second oil squirter to help with lube will fix it, and some claim that using cryogenic treated crank and bearings fix it. I wouldn't know if these "fixes" do work or cure the problem of the overgrowing crankwalk issue in the 4g63 but one thing I can tell you is that crankwalk is inevitable on ALL engines. If I were worried about this "crankwalk" issue I sure wouldnt be building a 2.4L Stroker (7 bolt)
 
SOHC on a 2L, yes it can be done and no it won't be easy to make work well. The CR will be very low, I'm guessing around 5:1 to 6:1, and there is virtually no aftermarket support for the SOHC head.

Putting a DOHC head on a 2.4 block without changing stock 2.4L pistons yields very high compression, between 11:1 and 12:1 from what I understand. Putting the SOHC head on a 2.0 without any machine work and stock pistons/rods would have the opposite effect, lowering compression greatly.
 
The crankwalk issue wasnt even about the crank. People seem to think the crankshaft was the cause/reason of the crankwalk. It basically is a simple term used for failure of the thrust bearing which causes the crank to waller and allow it to "walk". Some claim using better bearings fix it, others claim adding a second oil squirter to help with lube will fix it, and some claim that using cryogenic treated crank and bearings fix it. I wouldn't know if these "fixes" do work or cure the problem of the overgrowing crankwalk issue in the 4g63 but one thing I can tell you is that crankwalk is inevitable on ALL engines. If I were worried about this "crankwalk" issue I sure wouldnt be building a 2.4L Stroker (7 bolt)


yes sir you are correct. another reason for making it walk is ussing heavy clutches. From what i have heard the oil squirters work well in preventing crankwalk.

6 bolts can crankwalk as well as any engine. but the way things worked out the 4g63 7bolts where more prone to walk.
 
ive been on this mad quest to find a 6-bolt 4g64... i was thinkin on jus settling for the 7-bolt but im fearin the crankwalk. plus the older 6-bolts are a lot stronger than the 7-bolts anyway...

A little late, but. There is a 6bolt "4g64" 2.4L. It is called the g4cs. It comes in hyundai chasses. Search through the stroker tech a little more. You'll find some info on it.

The blocks are less prone to crankwalk. But primarily, they come with the same stronger 6 bolt rods and wider diameter headbolts that can tolerate much more cylinder pressure than 7 bolt head bolts. Your headbolts are reusable if they check within spec. This will save you money and with the g4cs bottem give you a 500whp capable stroker longblock (with stroker pistons installed of course). All with the nice amenity of less than 1/10 chance of crankwalk vs. a 95+ 7 bolt (4g64).
 
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