1G issues

[force-fed]

This is my first DSM, I do not know if I am excited or scared.It is a 1993 Talon TSi AWD 98485 miles on speedo.Anyway got the car at a steal so I took it. Anyway I took the car for a spin and noticed that there are a few issues,

1.I have to get entirely off the clutch pedal before the clutch engages and once the turbo passes the 0 mark on the boost gauge it accelerates without increasing speed. I did some research and thought it to be the center diff but with the car on jack stands all 4 tyres spin, no wierd sounds

2. When the car is cold, there is the rattling, type sound coming from the valve cover area near the exhaust cam. Doesn't seem to be a loose heatshield since it stops when the car warms up (2-5minutes)

3. Oil falling on the alternator, how is that stopped?

4. There is significant vibration on the body, steering wheel when accelerating? Are DSM mounts weak?

5. smoke coming from the exhaust manifold near the ps pump.

I am really looking forward to peoples opinions especially to number 1.
Thank you very much

 

[leakyfaucet]

If you mean the engine RPMs go up but the car stops accelerating, then you have a dead or poorly adjusted clutch. If the clutch is still good (unlikely), there is a screw you can tighten to adjust when it grabs. I would recommend a haynes manual, as it shows you how to do this as well as most other important things.

 

[motoman358]

1. Sounds like either your clutch is blown or way out of adjustment and slipping very bad. First try adjusting the clutch (pretty sure there is a step-by-step in www.vfaq.com), if that fails I would assume the clutch is bad.

2. The rattling sounds like it is the lifter tick these cars are known for. The are priming with oil for the first couple of minutes thats why they are ticking. You can swap a set of revised lifters in from a 3g and it would most likely cure that, but personally if it doesnt bother you too much i would just leave it until it is worse (like making the noise all the time). There are also some thing you can use to clean out your engine like seafoam and ATF that could cure your lifter tick, just search lifter tick.

3. Oil on the alt is probably a bad valve cover gasket. Easy fix, just replace it with a new one. The stockers get hard from heat cycles and eventuall start to leak.

Ill get to number 4 and 5 in a few minutes, I am at work now an we just got kinda busy.

 

[motoman358]

4. The vibration could be caused by many things, the mounts, as you stated, could be one of those things. It really depends on the speed at which you feel these vibrations. It could come from tires that are not balanced, mismatched tires, possibly the driveshaft or halfshafts, bad suspension, bad ball joints and tie rods, or allingment issues. If it shakes really bad when under a load I would first look at the mounts. If it shakes bad at speed I would look at the tires and balancing/mismatching issues.

5. The smoke fromt the exhaust manifold could be cause by a leaky power stearing pump, leaky valve cover dripping on the manifold, or even just a blown manifold gasket. I would check these things in the order I listed them.

 

[force-fed]

Thank you very much. I did some tinkering around and I let it idle till warm and noticed that there was still a rattling coming from the engine at 2-3000 rpm. When I isolated the sound to the timing belt cover, so i pulled that and noticed that the timing belt is loose (you can pull it up and push it down considerably) Now I know that they use a belt tensioner, Is there some way to adjust this to increase the belt tensior so that it doesn't hit the belt cover(it hits the top and lower belt cover). Any help with this would be appreciated.

I did an oil change,and added some valve and lifter cleaner, so far the noise has changed (sounds like a Honda idle) I do not know if this is normal, kind of tolerable. but i noticed the valve cover gasket is leaking gonna change it, get the bottom pan out and reseal it.

I noticed the oil line to the turbo there is an oil leak right at that bolt (please recommend a fix) and the power steering pump line is doing the same thing and dropping onto the damn alternator.

Once this is done I am attacking the clutch next, I see oil traces around the transfer case next to the driveshaft. How is that fixed?

 

[force-fed]

Thanks a lot for your responses guys, I appreciate it.

 

[force-fed]

Ok, I noticed that when the car gets to operating temperature the T-belt tightens and all noise goes away even those from the lifters. Neat, but I still have to deal with the valve cover issue and the clutch. While the tranny is out for the clutch replacement are there any issues I should take care of with the trans?

 

[hereitcomes]

Probably want to change the gear fluid as well. I used GM synchomesh and it took away a 5th gear grind for me. It was the partial synthetic $8 a bottle and the full synthetic is around $13 I think.

 

[eclipsh]

Look closer at the transfer case. If the oil is coming out of the CV joint you need to take the car in for the recall.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19280&highlight=transfer+case+recall

That'll tell you everything you need to know on it.

I'd agree with the other answers on here so far.

Also, I think there is a fix offered by Mitsu for the leaking power steering.

Searching the NHTSA can be helpful. www.nhtsa.dot.gov