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1g head on 2g block full build *pics*

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Tecni

15+ Year Contributor
66
0
Jul 10, 2007
Orlando, Florida
Ok so finally I got together all the parts I needed to begin assembling my motor.
So far the parts are:

Calico main and rod bearings
Eagle Rods
ARP head and main studs
Wiseco race ready dome pistons .20 over
Felpro rebuild gasket kit
Valves, springs and retainers from REV (portworks)
Cometic Head gasket
Schwitzer 76mm turbo
RC 750cc injectors

I might be leaving a couple of things out...

Please scroll down for resized pics!

Hopefully I'll be dropping the motor in sometime this week and getting the manifold made soon after. I'll post updates.
 
you would be suprised how much the heat wrap dosent help to save your alt, belive me i know im on my second one because i have the a/c in my car as well stil

its a brand new discount autoparts alternator so if it blows thay will replace it for free.


As far as the BOV goes... no biggie. I'll move it upstream some.
 
...AND SHE PURRRRRS

<embed width="440" height="380" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://v1.tinypic.com/player.swf?file=6yoysdx&s=1"></embed>


I gotta adjust the fuel pressure a little bit and fix a few things. I also have to raise the idle since it keeps wanting to stall The BC 280's don't help the idle LOL
 
nice! lets see the moving video.


I can't wait!:D SOMEONE FIND ME AN SRT-4 RADIATOR :( or any radiator 28x13!

QUESTION: my idle i really choppy and the car stalls if I don't gas it a bit. Sould I just play with the throttle cable? Is there anthing else I should look for?
 
Very nice build. I know you have heard this before in this thread, but I would relocate the alternator. Very quality build though. If only I wasn't so broke.
 
Very nice build. I know you have heard this before in this thread, but I would relocate the alternator. Very quality build though. If only I wasn't so broke.

I'm just gonna triple wrap the thing and hope for the best. Its just gonna be my daily for a month or two while I swap a v8 into the G35. The alternator has a lifetime warranty from autozone. If it burns, I'll just bring it in and swap it for a new one. I know the right thing to do is to relocate, just dont wanna spend more money on the setup right now.
 
I hooked up 1/2 size civic radiator today and managed to get the idle under control. Tomorrow I gotta fill up the tanny with ATF, and hook up the down pipe to the cat back and it should be good for a test drive.
 
So the progress has been slow but I've taken care of a few things.
I fixed the water lines that I had ghetto rigged to work, fixed and extended the downpipe, made i/c brackets and relocated the BOV to the U-bend right after the intercooler.
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Next up I'll be eliminating all the window tint because its all faded to a purple-like color, I need to investigate why I'm not getting oil to the head, and I need to fix the leaky auto tranny or buy another functioning auto tranny or simply do a 5mt swap.
 

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I found why I wasn't getting oil to the head... The machine shop had removed the oil squirters and I never saw the empty holes when I was putting in the main bearings. Everyone and their mom swore up and down including some highly reputable shop owners in Orlando that the 2G didn't use oil squirters. WTF

Basically I ended up tearing the motor apart and throwing the squirters in. Next I put everything together and then the car wouldn't start. All the relays were clicking and the gauges would jump up and down but the car wouldn't start. It ended up being the emprom ECU that was improperly soldered. Then I had a coolant leak from an exhaust manifold screw hole and it was a helicoil that was installed improperly and it led me to buying a whole other head and swapping the entire valvetrain to it (the head had to be cut because I was running 1mm oversized valves).

So all in all it seems that anything that could have gone wrong with this car... has. Hopefully this marks the end of that and I get smooth runs from now on.

I'll be posting videos of the car running soon.
 
Ok, finally got around to fixing most of what was left. So far I had a custom 3" catback done, I didn't have space for the A/C condenser under the hood so I mounted it in front of the intercooler and extended the a/c lines all the way to the front, I hooked up an Innovate wideband, bought andhooked up the O2 sensors, greddy profec b-spec 2 boost controller, I'm running a fat 1/2 sized radiator with two fans, and ordered 98 headlights to match the front bumper.

The car runs like a dream. Even with 280 cams its 100% streetable and very smooth. I'd put up a video of the car running but I'm untuned still. I had someone sell me a bad EPROM ECu and then decided to stop taking my calls so I'm left with just a socketed ECU and no chip. If anyone knows where I can get the chip please let me know.

I haven't pushed the car hard but I did notice I was making boost at 2800 rpms =)
 
PPPLLLEEAAASSSEEE tell me that you aren't running WORM clamps on your IC pipes :tease: ROFL


... Get some T-Clamps in there PRONTO :thumb:


They are not the average worm clamps. They're full stainless steel and extremely heavy duty. No need to change them. I bet money they won't come off at 30psi. I'll let you know :D
 
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Also the 1g head on a 2g block, what studs did you use? The 2g's are 11mm and the 1gs are 12mm. Did you drill out the block and have it retapped for 1g studs, or did you come up with anything to fill the empty space on the 1g holes for the 12mm studs?

Just interested because it would suck if you had a poor alignment between the head and block.

2g heads are a 11mm bolts with a 12mm head. 1g's are 12mm all the way. So around you bolts, you have "room" because the bolts aren't in close contact. Understand?

I know you used a different head, but I just wanted to mention for everyone's future reference that the difference in the headstuds is not between 1G and 2G. It's between the 6-bolt and 7-bolt. There are 1G heads on some 7-bolt blocks (93-94).

Also, the build looks great, -that is all except for that downpipe...
 
I know you used a different head, but I just wanted to mention for everyone's future reference that the difference in the headstuds is not between 1G and 2G. It's between the 6-bolt and 7-bolt. There are 1G heads on some 7-bolt blocks (93-94).

Also, the build looks great, -that is all except for that downpipe...

Thanks. Also, the downpipe works really well. I have my alternator and A/C in stock locations and working perfectly. The car is untuned and makes boost at 3700 rpms with 9-10's on the wideband. I can't imagine how quick the spool will be when its leaned out a bit. :thumb:
 
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