1g head on 2g block full build *pics*

[Tecni]

Ok so finally I got together all the parts I needed to begin assembling my motor.
So far the parts are:

Calico main and rod bearings
Eagle Rods
ARP head and main studs
Wiseco race ready dome pistons .20 over
Felpro rebuild gasket kit
Valves, springs and retainers from REV (portworks)
Cometic Head gasket
Schwitzer 76mm turbo
RC 750cc injectors

I might be leaving a couple of things out...

Please scroll down for resized pics!

Hopefully I'll be dropping the motor in sometime this week and getting the manifold made soon after. I'll post updates.

 

[Spln_Hrd]

Also the 1g head on a 2g block, what studs did you use? The 2g's are 11mm and the 1gs are 12mm. Did you drill out the block and have it retapped for 1g studs, or did you come up with anything to fill the empty space on the 1g holes for the 12mm studs?

Just interested because it would suck if you had a poor alignment between the head and block.

 

[brandonzero0]

I still assume the dowels would line up the block and cylinder head.still allowing him to use 7bolt head bolts or 7 bolt arp studs.

 

[daren_p]

Looks like you did a pretty good job of getting that O2 housing to fit with the alternator so close but I'm thinking an abrupt bend like that is going to hinder performance (slower spool, less top end). Its almost like hitting a wall right after the turbine wheel, which I couldn't imagine being good for exhaust flow. I think I would be getting an alternator relocation bracket (mounts alternator on back side of the block, where AC normally is) so you could get a proper 3" O2 housing on there, with a nice bend. Just my .02, other then that, looks good so far

 

[ChunkyLover53]

I would like to say it looks like you did a good job.

 

[Tecni]

yeah that down pipe is just to get me by for now. I'll look into other options later on.

 

[Tecni]

Also the 1g head on a 2g block, what studs did you use? The 2g's are 11mm and the 1gs are 12mm. Did you drill out the block and have it retapped for 1g studs, or did you come up with anything to fill the empty space on the 1g holes for the 12mm studs?

Just interested because it would suck if you had a poor alignment between the head and block.

I'm not sure I understand what you're asking. The ARP studs fit just fine. I didn't have to modify anything.

 

[Tecni]

Here's a little update... Needs a drop ASAP

Evo XIII enkei's w/ Yokohama AVS ES100's 245/40/17

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[Tecni]

Making brackets for FMIC

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[VETTE_50_TH]

Techni,

Is it just me, or that first pic you have look like there is no way that the cold side of the turbo where your j pipe runs off look like it would never bolt on? Or it just me?? That turbo outlet is pointing straight to the front of the car, then it in the next pic it is shown with the piping connected to it. Even if it was not bolted on, it seems like there is no way that is would fit. Does anyone seem what i mean.

http://i22.tinypic.com/r88cwo.jpg to --------> http://i21.tinypic.com/2cckos8.jpg

James

 

[Lonnie gandee]

You got some big parts.

It looks like he still has a/c, so moving the alt, is not an option..

I think part of the problem is the ex mani. Everything looks too tight. Looks like the radiator needs modified as well..

Good luck.

 

[Tecni]

I'm not sure I get what you mean. In the 1st pic the cold side housing is clocked a different way than the 2nd pic. If I would have left it like it was in the 1st pic it would have complicated the intercooler piping too much. I actually managed to make a straight shot to the U bend before the I/C.

Let me know if this is what you meant.

Techni,

Is it just me, or that first pic you have look like there is no way that the cold side of the turbo where your j pipe runs off look like it would never bolt on? Or it just me?? That turbo outlet is pointing straight to the front of the car, then it in the next pic it is shown with the piping connected to it. Even if it was not bolted on, it seems like there is no way that is would fit. Does anyone seem what i mean.

http://i22.tinypic.com/r88cwo.jpg to --------> http://i21.tinypic.com/2cckos8.jpg

James

 

[Tecni]

yeah I kept the AC and the down pipe is definitely improvised to fit the need but as soon as the car is up and running, I'll have something else made.

I'm going to be running a 1/2 sized radiator with a hardcore fan.

You got some big parts.

It looks like he still has a/c, so moving the alt, is not an option..

I think part of the problem is the ex mani. Everything looks too tight. Looks like the radiator needs modified as well..

Good luck.

 

[asexton6969]

I agree with daren p. The downpipe will severely hurt your performance. I was going to suggest the alternator relocation as well but daren beat me to it. Other than that, it looks great. I don't imagine the longer dump tube will hinder you at all. My cousins and I are starting a fabrication shop and my o2 dump is somewhat long, probably longer than yours and I notice no ill effects on my evo 16g. Good Luck and I'll try to keep an eye on your thread to see what goes on. By the way, what did you do about the head stud issue. Hopefully you took the time to drill and tap for the larger studs.

 

[asexton6969]

2g heads are a 11mm bolts with a 12mm head. 1g's are 12mm all the way. So around you bolts, you have "room" because the bolts aren't in close contact. Understand?

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Techni,

I understand exactly what you did now. YOu rotated the cold side to make the inducer point down instead of straight. I looked at one, and saw it pointed forward, and then the next it pointed down. Forgot you could do that. Confused the hell out of me.

James

 

[Tecni]

, yeah you cand flip it which ever way you like on either hot or cold side.

To solve the down pipe issue I will be left with no choice but to cut a chunk of about 3/4" from (where the vband flare is on the hotside) the exhaust housing and weld another vband closer to the exhaust blade. This will allow the downpipe to make a a much smooter bend.

I'm not sure if you guys follow.

Techni,

I understand exactly what you did now. YOu rotated the cold side to make the inducer point down instead of straight. I looked at one, and saw it pointed forward, and then the next it pointed down. Forgot you could do that. Confused the hell out of me.

James

 

[Tecni]

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[MidShipCivic]

You're going to kill your alternator.

 

[GofaST4life]

You're going to kill your alternator.

i agree...all that heat is going to fry it...just my .02

Great build by the way...keep it up, i wish i had the money, time, tools, did i say money yet to do that to my car...

 

[Tecni]

You're going to kill your alternator.

Its getting heat wrapped... It will be fine.

 

[Tecni]

Its getting heat wrapped... It will be fine.

Ok, so I decided to route the I/C piping to the bottom...

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[1gentalonfan]

build looks great i cant wait to get started on mine its a little different and on a 1g but hopefully something like that will turn out from it

 

[bowtiebuba350]

Its getting heat wrapped... It will be fine.

you would be suprised how much the heat wrap dosent help to save your alt, belive me i know im on my second one because i have the a/c in my car as well stil

 

[1gentalonfan]

just noticed that the bov is after the gm maf which means its still venting air thats already been accounting for. are you running the ecu programming that auto compensates or did you jsut forget that??

 

[DsmDave95]

just noticed that the bov is after the gm maf which means its still venting air thats already been accounting for. are you running the ecu programming that auto compensates or did you jsut forget that??

i noticed that too, isnt suppose to be maf-t then bov.