Resolved 1G ECU wire question

[90EclipsePos]

So removing the safc2 that was in my car and switching to dsmlink, I notice 2 wires that have possibly been modified but not positive may be factory just want to get input before I go further with it.

It is pin 9 (detonation sensor) and pin 2 (diagnosis data transfer select terminal) both white but down further look to have black wires coming off of them. Is this normal?

Could this be something with when the car was switched from automatic to manual?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[DogWhistle]

Neither of those wires, to those pin positions, were specific to either an automatic, or a manual.

From your description, you’re saying if you follow the wires back into the harness, they are soldered/crimped onto black wires? Often, owners will use whatever wire they have available.

The knock sensor wire is supposed to be shielded (braided jacket). If the wire — either color — isn’t shielded, a previous owner either ran their own, or abandon the correct wire.

It’s hard to get your head around what other people were thinking when they butcher these harnesses.

Take your time and trace them down. Your car will run so much better for it.

 

[chrysler kid]

The factory harness is a bit retarded on it's own, they are known to have a few loops of extra wiring in them wrapped in electrical tape

I can see where the connections have been tapped and they have heat shrink on them so you should be alright. The white wire I believe was ecu constant power it's a commonly tapped location

 

[90EclipsePos]

So I didn't cut the tape back past to see how they were connected. I have no reason to believe what they did was wrong if they did splice it or if it was factory. It just seemed out of the norm from what I would expect to see. As far as the white with the heat shrink that was my patch job from removing the safc2 that was installed. I'll have to check my other car when I swap the ecu back in it if it's similar. Now trying to figure out why my o2 sensor doesn't seem to cycle on dsm link.

 

[Vegas Smith]

Post a log of the event.

 

[90EclipsePos]

I will get a log today. Still figuring out dsmlink so might take me a few. It basically stays at .06 or lower for a long time after I went for a drive it would move around only when the throttle was hit but would never cycle up and down. Thinking the o2 is bad because how much fuel the previous owner had dumping into it. I also am going to check if it's going into closed loop.

 

[Vegas Smith]

Gotcha. That's certainly a possibility that sensor is dead. All you need to do to capture the log is obviously start streaming or capturing (capturing means it automatically saves after you end it) and stop the stream/capture and save it somewhere.....then post here

 

[90EclipsePos]

Here is a log with a lot of idle time and a small drive. Looks to me like it isn't going into closed loop.

 

[90EclipsePos]

So finally got back out to the car today. So if all settings for the car to be in closed loop are met and dsmlink still shows it isn't in closed loop is this caused by a bad o2? My o2 still doesn't cycle on idle but does move while driving.

 

[Vegas Smith]

Hmm, you know the car is locked in open loop in ecmlink, right? You need to uncheck that box in the misc tab.

 

[90EclipsePos]

Hmm, you know the car is locked in open loop in ecmlink, right? You need to uncheck that box in the misc tab.

Yes I did notice that today and felt like an idiot. That still did not help but I changed the o2 with one I had laying around and did solve the issue now into my next issue why one fan isn't coming on. Thanks for everyone's help. After I find out more on that wire I wss posting about I will report my findings

 

[Vegas Smith]

So the problem is fixed? I'm confused.

 

[90EclipsePos]

So the problem is fixed? I'm confused.

Yes after swapping out the o2 sensor it finally went into closed loop. Still oscillate up and down slowly so going to buy a new one and swap in.