The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

1G 1g brake braided lines

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BoostedTT91

15+ Year Contributor
285
7
Aug 2, 2004
Elysburg, Pennsylvania
So my talon has been sitting for awhile and finally motivated to get it back on the road again.
My ds rear brake line rusted through and it's been some time since I've had to repair one.
I'm thinking of just replacing the entire line with braided 3an line and my question is would I need any special fittings for the prop valve or would just 3an - m10x1.0 fittings do the trick?
 
Last edited:
Wonder what the difference is between Fwd and awd lines. I had my front subframe out a few months ago and there’s not a lot of room between the firewall and subframe. Hope there’s enough clearance to run those lines.
 
Is leak by the bracket that holds all the lines down? If so, why not just repair that section? All you need is NiCo line, some fittings and a flare tool.

Yea right by where it goes through the subframe and under the body where you can't get to it without cutting a bigger chunk out. It's been years since I've done brake line flaring and spent the last 2 days trying to get a good flare and keeps leaking. I honestly don't trust the flare and the cost to buy a decent flaring tool i could just replace it with a braided line
 
Using the NiCo line is the trick now days. That stuff is so easy to work with. Rent a double flairing tool from the auto parts store, watch a YouTube video on double flairing and replace what is needed. I did all of my rear lines last year because of the same issue and that stuff made the job so much easier!
 
Common mistake when flaring lines is that there’s not enough line or too much exposed when using the clamp tool. Exposed line should be the same length as the die being used. And double flare is always better.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Common mistake when flaring lines is that there’s not enough line or too much exposed when using the clamp tool. Exposed line should be the same length as the die being used. And double flare is always better.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Where do you get nico line at? I have been putting the line out to the first step in the die. Problem that keeps happening is the die keeps going crooked when flaring which then messes it up. No matter how i try it or setup it keeps going crooked.
 
Where do you get nico line at? I have been putting the line out to the first step in the die. Problem that keeps happening is the die keeps going crooked when flaring which then messes it up. No matter how i try it or setup it keeps going crooked.

I got a roll from Amazon and it’s cheap. Are you using a line cutter and cutting the edge straight? And you have to crush it as far as it goes. Is it not straight on the first run or when you double flare?

You’ll need the union

4LIFETIMELINES 25 ft 3/16 Copper-Nickel Alloy Brake Line Replacement Tubing Coil and Fitting Kit, 16 Fittings Included, Inverted Flare, SAE Thread, 0.028 inch wall thickness https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BMZ5FV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7TVQCNWAJB38NTDRSN7Q
 
@BoostedTT91 is it not straight after you double flare? If that’s the case, you’re probably not centered with the tool. During the second flare, I only snug it then center the tool, then start tightening.
 
Good advice! Thanks Tony!
 
I wanted to get a picture of what I mean but didn't get a chance today, ill take one tomorrow.

During the first flare when the die is in, it isn't staying level during the whole process. It will start to go crooked right away if that makes sense. I'll take pics of the steps on how I'm doing it and maybe someone can see what I'm doing wrong.

I ordered some NiCo line off Amazon which will be here tomorrow so I'll see how that works. Problem will still be the oem line on the car I still need to get a good flare on unless I just replace the entire line.

Thanks everyone
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I ordered some NiCo line off Amazon which will be here tomorrow so ill see how that works. Problem will still be the oem line on the car I still need to get a good flare on unless I just replace the entire line
If I were you, I wouldn't fight it and just replace the whole line. Its just 2 flairs. Practice and I no exacly what you are talking about on the crooked flare. I did it too. I did mine IN THE CAR too. I ruined the ends twice I think on 6 or 8 ends....whatever the entire rear system is.
Nice choice on the tubing, you will be glad it was brought up! :thumb:
My brakes blew out at home luckily, not at the track or street and the guys at my local parts store turned me onto it.
 
Here is how its turning out and the process im doing. No pic of the last step but you get the idea. I have a leak in only 1 out of the 3 connections now so I'm making progress. Gonna try making a new line with the NiCo line and see how it works
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Common mistake when flaring lines is that there’s not enough line or too much exposed when using the clamp tool. Exposed line should be the same length as the die being used. And double flare is always better.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

My bad. This is incorrect. It’s the other side length of the other side of the die.
 
Or are you referring to the tip of it? I don't have a chamfer tool so I've tried using a file and that pic i used a grinder. Just wanted to see if it made a difference
 
Or are you referring to the tip of it? I don't have a chamfer tool so I've tried using a file and that pic i used a grinder. Just wanted to see if it made a difference
Id bet that’s your issue. Get a line cutter at the parts store, it’s about $5
 
I have a line cutter. Just been seeing everyone says you need to taper it before flaring. Is that actually needed or just keep it as it is after cutting it
 
I have a line cutter. Just been seeing everyone says you need to taper it before flaring. Is that actually needed or just keep it as it is after cutting it
Just cut it and remove any bur. I’ve never seen or heard anyone using that method before. Think about it. You’re basically crushing the lines to have a good fit and when you use that method, you’ve removed about 1/3 of the material. Your flare after that method looks very thin.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top