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[1g AWD] Rear Shock Removal

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Tanro

10+ Year Contributor
2,458
90
Jul 22, 2009
Montgomery, Alabama
I have 2 1991 eagle talons I am trying like hell to switch the shocks on.

First car has KYB AGX but is not road worthy.

My daily has the KYB AGX off the front end on it, but I cannot get the lower part of the shock where it connects to the trailing arm free for anything. I just want to get them off so I have better shocks, and my drop springs are on them as well.

Currently the daily's front end has drop springs but the rear doesn't so it is riding a bit wierd.

Anyone have any ideas on getting that sonfabitch off the trailing arm without damaging either the trailing arm or shock? I have been hammering on it with a chisel, balljoint separator, big ol stick, etc for hours. I even took a 3 foot pry bar to it and nearly knocked the car off the jack stands.
 
I have 2 1991 eagle talons I am trying like hell to switch the shocks on.

First car has KYB AGX but is not road worthy.

My daily has the KYB AGX off the front end on it, but I cannot get the lower part of the shock where it connects to the trailing arm free for anything. I just want to get them off so I have better shocks, and my drop springs are on them as well.

Currently the daily's front end has drop springs but the rear doesn't so it is riding a bit wierd.

Anyone have any ideas on getting that sonfabitch off the trailing arm without damaging either the trailing arm or shock? I have been hammering on it with a chisel, balljoint separator, big ol stick, etc for hours. I even took a 3 foot pry bar to it and nearly knocked the car off the jack stands.

I had the same problem on my 92. I ended up dropping the entire rear suspension. then I could push the shock in, then they came off the bushing (but they came off!!!). Then I had to heat and cut the rubber/metal bushings that remained off. It was ugly, but when they rust on like that you gotta get ugly.

It actually only took me 30 minutes to drop the rear end. Not too hard, but real heavy. a good jack and a helper for balance is great.
 
when i did my rear shocks i had to use a gear puller to get the shock off the bushing and torch the bushing off... then take a grinder at an angle to the sleeve thats left behind and edge it off... like cut at an angle till it splits the sleeve and it will release itself haha... that the only way i could get them... its a pain... i would rather pull my trany again and trust me ive done that alot recently so its not that fun...
 
wow all i did was jack up the side i was working on, let the suspension hang. took the bolt out and used a pry bar to remove the bottom mount first
 
Yeah bolts came right out. These buggers have less than 5,000 on them. Just been on the car for about 3-4 years.
 
Bump. Seriously thinking of just pulling off the rear trailing arms and taking this crap to a shop unless anyone has an idea.
 
maybe heat it up with a torch?


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
 
spray lots of PB blast and get a big pry bar and pry down on it while pulling the strut assembly out. where do you have the jackstand located at? MAKE SURE you don't have anything else holding it down. Like i said if it takes too long to do it the short way, might as well do it the long way and do it correctly rather the F*ck up other components
 
What type of gear puller did you use?

I will have to look and see if I have one, memory fails me at the moment. If not I am sure I can rent one from Oreilly' s

And no the jack stands are well away from the suspension. They are on body, rear of the gas tank, with 6" square blocks of wood spreading out the weight.
 
Does anyone know where I can get the lower mounting bushing for kyb agx... I looked up some info and kyb doesnt list them in their size diagram but I know its in E2 (25 x 43) but cant seem where I can purchase.
 
I always use a torch to heat it until it's basically on fire. With the rear supported by jack stands give the shock a kick and that usually knocks it loose. If not, a cutoff wheel will make quick work of cutting the O shaped lower part of the shock in half, then it's cake to remove. Remember your anti seize when installing the new shock.
 
A lot of the suggested methods here are going to leave you with a pair of AGX shocks needing repair or replacement. If you can get the other suspension pieces loose you can just switch the rusted on shocks as an assembly from one car to the other. It won't solve your rust problem but it won't ruin your AGXs either.
 
A lot of the suggested methods here are going to leave you with a pair of AGX shocks needing repair or replacement. If you can get the other suspension pieces loose you can just switch the rusted on shocks as an assembly from one car to the other. It won't solve your rust problem but it won't ruin your AGXs either.

Judging by the OP's first post and the instruments of pain he's already tried, my assumption would be they are already in pretty sad shape. That's why I recommended the above methods, otherwise I would have said a 3 jaw puller.
 
I had the same problem when helping a buddy change his. We just soaked it in PB Blaster and used a pipe braced against the strut with a towel in between and gave it some good elbow grease. It eventually slid out to the end and a few final shoves took it off. Take some sanding paper over the mounting point when you do finally get it too to prevent further binding.
 
what a strange way to bring back a topic.....

when my rear shock seized to the trailing arm, i had to pull the shock off the lower rubber bushing where it was seized to the trailing arm, then remove the bushing, then used a grinder to cut the seized metal sleeve from the shock off the mount on the trailing arm. once i had cut into the sleeve it finally came apart properly. pain in the ass but you can do it with the car jacked up.
 
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