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1g AWD converted to manual rack questions

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LandoAWD

Retired
Supporting VIP
10,748
59
Jun 13, 2002
Chapel Hill, North Carolina
Question or questions...we'll see as this progresses.

I'm new to the world of manual steering, and love it...for the most part.

Issues:

1. I have a bit of side to side play in the steering wheel before the steering actually responds to input. I can be cruising along and just wiggle the crap out of the wheel with no effect on travel.

2. Bump steer. I love the response of the rack (apart from issue 1), but the bump steer (had a big 4wd for a while...pretty sure I'm properly identifying this) is insane on some seemingly mild road blemishes. I know my rear struts are on the way out...could this be the culprit or just a contributing factor?

Thanks for the time, and YEA, I did search.
 
Can't help you with question # 1, but on # 2 the struts could be a factor. I blame my bump steer issues on having negative camber in the front.
 
The universal joints on the column could have play. Most racks can be adjusted. I am not sure if this one can. It is like adjusted the gears in a rearend to bring the gears closer together or further apart. Most racks that can be adjusted have a place to put a wrench that looks like plastic. This will be near where the column connects to the rack.
 
These pictures were taken of my ranger but you get the idea of what I am talking about.

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Most of these look plastic. If there is one on our racks it is probably hidden kind of by the cross member. The pictures kind of suck but in the second one you can see where the lines connect to the rack(left side of picture). That is where the rack goes to connect to the column. This is around where it should be on the dsm rack. Let me know if you want me to try to get better pictures.
 

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Check for slop or hysteresis in your steering system - as mentioned.

Bump-steer will occur when the arc of the tie-rod strays far from the arc of the knuckle. The length of the tie-rod and the height of the end's mount to the knuckle will can be changed to help get these two arcs more aligned.

As well, Dee is right about the struts. The further the suspension travels during an impact, the more of an effect it will have on toe.
 
Also, if you want manual steering while having the power steering ratios but ease of turning of the manual rack convert it this way.

Does anyone have any feedback on this method. I was thinking I may give it a shot sometime. on a spare rack to see how it goes.
 
Does anyone have any feedback on this method. I was thinking I may give it a shot sometime. on a spare rack to see how it goes.

Yes it works. However since you're using a power steering rack and converting it I'd suggest to use a breather where the PS lines would go to release air pressure. The manuals have a galley inside it for that.
 
Chris, when I first put in my maunal rack in the car I had the stock tires and wheels. Everthing was fine. When I put the EVO VIII wheels and 245/17 tires on the car it went to wandering all over the road on rough roads. Is this what you are talking about?
 
David, yeah, that is what I'm talking about.

The meats are 225/50/16. I've grown more used to this since the initial post, had an alignment (dropped the rear with Pro-Kits), but it still does it.

Damn thing could drive itself with enough grooves in the pavement...
 
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