Spyder 1999 Spyder gs 2.4L SOHC, Crank but no start

[BadIrene69]

I recently inherited a 1999 spyder gs (2.4L 4g64 SOHC) with the 5 speed manual trans. The car sat untouched in a garage for about 8 years before It came to me. Here's a break down of what I have done so far:

Before trying to start it:
Replaced: oil, oil filter, coolant, trans oil, break fluid, clutch fluid, power steering fluid, spark plugs, spark plug wires, battery, fuel pump, siphoned old gas, replaced with new gas. Gave each cylinder a shot of fogging oil knowing they were likely bone dry.

At this point I tried to start it, the car cranks but would not turn over. I noticed that cylinder 4 was getting some oil around the spark plug so I decided do a compression test, every cylinder came back within 8-10psi of each other. Decided to replace the valve cover gasket and spark plug gaskets. I inspected the timing belt, still looks like it is in fine condition, and is under tension. Cranked again, this time it sounded like maybe 1 cylinder fired then it died. Only cranks after that.

Unsure of exactly where to go from here. From what I have been able to find online sounds like it could be an issue with the fuel pump relay? Ive seen suggestions to bypass, but I have had a hard time locating it on the 2.4L spyder. When I replaced the fuel pump and hanger, the replacement pump did not come with a hole for the fuel tank pressure sensor, could this be the issue? I also tried the screwdriver trick to check the injectors, kind of difficult to tell over the engine cranking noise, but it sounds like they are all ticking. Lastly, when I turn the key to the on position, I get a short "buzz" sound from around the intake manifold, might be totally innocuous but I figured I would throw that out there.

Any suggestions on where or what to check next??

 

[pauleyman]

I would try a little starting fluid. If it fires you know it's a fuel problem. You can check to see if the fuel pump runs as you can likely hear it with the same screwdriver method when somebody cranks the car and you listen at the fuel filler neck or better yet remove the backseat cushion and listen at the fuel pump itself. There is a fuel pump check connector on the firewall and you can manually fire the fuel pump without cranking. At least then you could determine if the fuel pump is getting fuel to the rail. It doesn't tell you if the fuel pump is running during cranking. ECU needs a signal for that to happen. Fuel check connector bypasses all that and directly fires the fuel pump relay located next to the ecu under the stereo if memory serves.
If you find the check connector you can listen to the pump while the car is quiet and if you get some hose undo the fuel return line at the regulator and put on 5 or 6 ft of hose into a bucket. You'll know for sure if fuel is flowing through the rail. Keep in mind you're now dealing with raw gasoline so take any precautions necessary. I assume you're knowledgeable based on your post above and what you've done already.

Here is a page from the service manual.
Here are the service manuals for the car

2G 1997-1999 DSM Electrical Factory Service Manual

This is the 1997-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse / Eclipse Spyder Factory Service Manual covering:Electrical - Volume 2540 pages - 24MB -- use the link below to access.Here is the direct link from my Google Drive - You must be registered to see element.

www.dsmtuners.com

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-dsm-factory-service-manual-chassis-and-body-volume-1.517364/

Read carefully as the manuals contain information for 2.0 turbo. 2.0 non turbo and 2.4 spyder.

 

[BadIrene69]

Thanks for the info, and the service manual links. Those are very helpful. I took your advice and gave the starting fluid a try, sure enough she fired right up, died relatively quickly but as you said it’s a good indication that lack of fuel is the problem. Next up I will give the check connector/hose and bucket a try and see if I have flow. One other thing I came across was slightly low voltage at the fuel pump connector (10.6v) not terribly low but still should be closer to the 11.5-12v mark. Not sure if that is adding to my issues but a physical flow test should point me in the right direction.