1995 Eclipse GS-T

[cswindel]

This is the Build Thread for 1995 Eclipse GS-T. Reply below.

 

[cswindel]

The tear down process begins for the rebuild and goal to reach 350hp.

I have found some concerning things along the way. The car was burning some serious oil when I got it. Started looking around at parts and noticed an excessive use of sealant and gasket maker. Current major concern is with the tear down of the bottom end and the pitting, gouging and wear marks on the pistons, rods, bearings and cylinder wall (pictures to follow).
It's terrible because the Arias pistons are very nice (more than what I would need). However I don't know where to go from here. Need to see what the machine shop can do about the scratch in cylinder 1 and go from there. If I need to overbore I will get overbore pistons but was looking to do the 2g pistons with 1g rod setup for cost and that is really all I need for the power I want.

 

[chrysler kid]

That intake manifold is very.....different.

Also good sign is that head is new, bad sign is the block was painted blue, then painted black, which means its already been out of the car atleast 3 times now.

 

[cswindel]

That intake manifold is very.....different.

Also good sign is that head is new, bad sign is the block was painted blue, then painted black, which means its already been out of the car atleast 3 times now.

I'm not sure what brand the manifold is but my guess is that it was a custom piece. As far as the head I am happy with it and the parts look good in it. Still not sure about the coolant lining the head gasket (as shown in pic) and the droplets in the oil pan when I pulled it (after I broke through all the sealant gooped up) but could just be from it sitting a while. Most of the parts I plan to reuse as they are all fairly nice condition other than the pistons.
Need to take the block and head to get pressure/leak tested and resurfaced. Almost there as I almost have both the head and block torn down.

 

[cswindel]

Just a progress/parts/reference dump of photos. Current biggest concern is the pistons and if they are salvageable by some machining (I know this is a stretch but they are Arias)
Everything else from what I can tell is still usable. Checked the rod clearance before I pulled them and they are still within service limits.
IF YOU SEE SOMETHING SAY SOMETHING
I am still new to all this and I will take all the guidance/knowledge I can get.
Next big move is to get the head and block machined/resurfaced, check if the crank is balanced and the banged up piston revival.
Need to check if the balance shaft delete was done legitimately and check the oil pump tolerances. (Is there supposed to be oil squirters?? So many questions I still have). Not sure if I want to overbore (for larger pistons or do the .02 everyone does) but still need to measure bore and piston size to see if there were any discrepancies.
This is my first time doing an engine rebuild so please hit me with any info. I do plan to use all the parts I can as I'm only going for 300hp. Thank you all.

 

[cswindel]

In a bit of a mental bind and trying to figure out where to go next. Still confused about where the excessive oil burning problem stemmed from and why the pistons were so damaged. The build looks pretty fresh based on the parts and gaskets. My only guess is oil feed/drain issues due to all the sealant and contaminants in the oil.

I am wondering if I need to take it to a machine shop (seems like a bad idea not to right?). Original plan was to get block and head resurfaced on any of the possible surfaces the machine shop could, get crank checked and maybe see about the pistons(but those are probably too far gone). The engine had a MLS head gasket previously but I plan to run a composite. With the original seals holding fine and with running a composite head gasket in the future is the machine shop necessary? I don't know why the piston skirts show wear marks but could be due to out of spec pistons or overheating. If honing is needed I figure I could do that part or take it to the machine shop. Depending on if the 0.02 overbore that is thrown around a lot is worth it or if I go with larger pistons will probably determine if I go to a machine shop.

Also may need a new turbo since I'm having a hard time finding someone to rebuild mine. This build seems to be quite custom to the turbo so this will be some money unless someone here is able to rebuild turbos.

Looking to save money and time but build it right. Don't have a lot of time where I'm at before I move so I am really trying to get this thing ripping soon. Thank you and please leave some input, it is appreciated!

 

[cswindel]

Got around to measuring the cylinder bore and turns out I'm already over-bore from stock specs. Will be more interested now in taking to machine shop to check for cracks rather than just some resurfacing. Did not do a compression test before taking apart but could have been skewed anyway due to its condition prior. A bit more confused now going forward. Will definitely be limited on piston options and will need to look into proper gap/clearances for overbore.

 

[cswindel]

Just another parts dump/reference archive post. Still need to measure turbo to figure out exactly what I have but all in due time. First need to figure out if 86mm pistons are a viable and realistic option over other options (like getting a stock short block). Don't know what to do with this Microtech ECU either. It isn't bad but seems rudimentary. Then again I'm not familiar with ECMLink (have speed density setup from the looks of it so will need to be able to run that. Don't want MAF anyway)

 

[cswindel]

Back at it thanks to @Junglejim23 and getting me some 86mm Nippon pistons ridiculously fast!

Working on getting the cylinder head cleaned out and ready for the machine shop

Had to improvise a little with this spring compressor...

Makes pretty easy work of getting the valves and springs out but concerned about the "pop" sound it makes when retainer breaks loose.

Also concerned about other things...the cylinder head looks pitted in the water/oil jackets in some areas and this stuff on the valves.

Things are coming along none the less. Hoping to get the head, block, crank, girdle, rods and pistons to the shop soon.

 

[Junglejim23]

In a bit of a mental bind and trying to figure out where to go next. Still confused about where the excessive oil burning problem stemmed from and why the pistons were so damaged. The build looks pretty fresh based on the parts and gaskets. My only guess is oil feed/drain issues due to all the sealant and contaminants in the oil.

I am wondering if I need to take it to a machine shop (seems like a bad idea not to right?). Original plan was to get block and head resurfaced on any of the possible surfaces the machine shop could, get crank checked and maybe see about the pistons(but those are probably too far gone). The engine had a MLS head gasket previously but I plan to run a composite. With the original seals holding fine and with running a composite head gasket in the future is the machine shop necessary? I don't know why the piston skirts show wear marks but could be due to out of spec pistons or overheating. If honing is needed I figure I could do that part or take it to the machine shop. Depending on if the 0.02 overbore that is thrown around a lot is worth it or if I go with larger pistons will probably determine if I go to a machine shop.

Also may need a new turbo since I'm having a hard time finding someone to rebuild mine. This build seems to be quite custom to the turbo so this will be some money unless someone here is able to rebuild turbos.

Looking to save money and time but build it right. Don't have a lot of time where I'm at before I move so I am really trying to get this thing ripping soon. Thank you and please leave some input, it is appreciated!

Look for Justin w. https://m.facebook.com/justurbos

 

[cswindel]

Quick little update but the cylinder head is cleaned out and the block is on its way! Should have block, head, crank and pistons to machine shop this weekend!

 

[cswindel]

Got the block, head and crank back from the machine shop and got cracking on this rebuild. Wanted to check some measurements though and it looks like the crank had been cut previously so I'm down 0.01" on the main journal (measured at 2.23" and spec is 2.244") and down 0.02" on the rod journal (measured 1.75" and spec is 1.771"). Will need to get bearings to match but for now swapping the damaged Arias pistons for Nippon pistons. Orientated the bearing recess on the rod and end cap so they are both on the exhaust side. The bolts and bolt holes on the rods were terribly dirty and I have no idea what the previous builder did. Also uncovered some more contaminants that remained in the pistons and under bearings so something was very wrong with the oil/overall build process aside from the excessive oil burning problem. Unfortunately I am without wrist pin locks so I'll have to find some for 22mm wrist pins but not a big issue. Next step is more block cleaning and gapping the rings.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Making Progress!!!
If there are wrist pin locking grooves in the Nippon pistons, I would look at these locks but make sure there is a locking groove in the pistons wrist pin hole first. I'm not sure that Nippon grooves them for full floating or not but these are for 22mm pins.
Marty

Manley .054 Round Wire Lock (Set of 8) | eliteracefab-com

Manley .054 Round Wire Lock (Set of 8) eliteracefab-com

eliteracefab.com

 

[cswindel]

Making Progress!!!
If there are wrist pin locking grooves in the Nippon pistons, I would look at these locks but make sure there is a locking groove in the pistons wrist pin hole first. I'm not sure that Nippon grooves them for full floating or not but these are for 22mm pins.
Marty

Manley .054 Round Wire Lock (Set of 8) | eliteracefab-com

Manley .054 Round Wire Lock (Set of 8) eliteracefab-com

eliteracefab.com

Thank you Marty always appreciated! Will definitely take a look into those thank you!

 

[cswindel]

So far so good with the piston and rod assembly. Used some wiesco spiral locks that worked very nicely with the Nippon pistons and almost have all the rings gapped and installed on the piston. The 2nd ring, middle ring, has been measuring a gap of 0.032" right out the box which was strange to me because the manual says service limit is 0.031" and to not use rings exceeding 0.039". I figure I'm fine considering this won't be too serious of a build but the 1st ring, top ring, I've been able to get a good 0.024" gap across the board so that's good. Now just need to source some undersized main/crank bearings that are impossible to find it seems.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Our vendor RTM has the bearings you need. Fill out the info section for your year of engine and then you needed to add your oversize bearings sizes.
Marty

RTM Racing :: MITSUBISHI / EAGLE :: DSM: 2g (1995-99) :: Engine :: Block Components :: Connecting Rods, Crankshafts, Bearings :: ACL "Aluglide" Bearings for 7-Bolt: DSM

 

[cswindel]

By no means have I quit working on this build I've just been using Tik Tok to make short videos to better document what I've been doing on the build in a short but effective package. Hand written notes have served me well but having a video to go along with it will pay dividends down the road. If you want to check out the progress search;

limitless.photography_

Can't wait to finish up putting the engine together but not looking forward to the wiring nightmare

 

[cswindel]

Decided to start uploading the build progress videos (finally). Just kept forgetting to start but here it is! The crankshaft install

 

[cswindel]

Crankshaft Install part 2

 

[cswindel]

 

[cswindel]

 

[cswindel]

Rear main seal install

 

[cswindel]

Oil Pump Part 1

 

[cswindel]

Oil Pump Part 2

 

[cswindel]

Oil Filter Housing Disassemble