1990 mitsubishi GSX leaking and other issues

[teknicalissue]

Hello, i just purchased a 1990 Mitsubishi GSX with 260k miles for 1600. I don't know too much about cars but i'm still learning (just sold my b16 honda del sol).

The owner had said the he rebuilt the motor approximately 15,000 miles ago so there are no issues with that.

the owner also said that the slave solenoid might be leaking and that was about it.

Turns out i think the transmission is going bad (it grinds every time i go to 3rd) so it has its issues, but overall its running quite well.

Im a noob to dsm and even more of a noob when it comes to checks and maintenance. There is a leak (looks and smells like burnt oil) on the bottom of a car after its been ran. I just replaced the oil and i checked the dip stick and its definitely not burning oil. the oil seems to be coming from the oil pan but i'm not too sure why its dripping burnt when it isn't burnt.

Last but not least the car has little sputters (running at 12psi) and the headers tend to glow red after i run the car hard. I researched this and came to the conclusion that i may be running too lean/rich.

also i put the car up in a lifter and noticed that two brackets under the car that look like U's with black plasticky stuff (not the exhaust ones) that i don't know their name, are in really bad shape. I later figured out that because of those, my car makes a slamming noise on the bottom (center of the car) if i shift normally (i have to shift slowly)

I honestly don't know where to start or where to look for more issues, please advice.

although it has all of these issues, this is the greatest car i've ever purchased

 

[teknicalissue]

The lower the number the richer, the higher the leaner. WOT & Lean do not mix.

i see... for some reason i thought it was the other was around

Idle and cruise AFR dancing around 14.7- 15.7 - it doesn't have to stay there solid. Just cycling or dancing.

well... in idle its showing im running super lean.. but im guessing thats because of my flex pipe leak

WOT - since it's probably aiming for the factory 9.3:1 AFR it should be down there(pig rich). Anything above 11.8:1 and let off the throttle immediately since you'll probably be pulling timing anyways.
Ideal AFR if you have a method of tuning would be 10.8-11.5 AFR - or until you have no knock.

got it

(Before someone shouts off remember the aggressive 1G timing maps here. 24* of timing advance makes some good power but not a lot of room for a leaner A/FR.)
This is why I recommend a logger to watch timing, knock, and I like to watch IDC(injector duty cycle) as to figure out how close I'm really pushing my fuel system.

If you feel like your going no where and your AFR is good/safe you're probably picking up knock some how. Don't continually do this since it causes high EGTs and can damage stuff in the long run.

I'm probably missing something but I'm on lunch break and about to run out the door.
G'luck!

well now i have to fix my flex pipe (i installed it after the flex pipe) in order to get accurate readings.. there is no way i am running super idle (numbers show ---).

I do have another question, i am having a hard time finding rear and front crank seals. are they the same things? could someone post up some links? i am really lost =*(

 

[95weclipse]

well the front seal is behind the timing cover and you have to take the timing cover off then the timing belt and then the crank pulley

as for the rear seal when you go to pull the trans out do this right away

all it is when you pull the trans off pull the clutch off the fly wheel youll have i think its 4 bolts that hold it to the fly wheel then youll have whats called the pressure plate which will come off first then out will come what is called the disc pull both of them togather then youll just have the fly wheel, then youll have 6 bolts holding the fly wheel to the back of the crank shaft pull that off then you have to pull off the starter shim and that will reveal the rear main seal its called youll have to get a good puller to pull the seal

then you want to get a small block of wood and GENTLY tap the seal around till it gets started DO NOT get it crooked when it gets started just go from top to bottom a few times then go side to side and alternate back and forth between the two

 

[viprez586]

RockAuto Auto Parts

PartsDinosaur, Phoenix, Arizona, wholesale engine parts and kits

Both places I used for my engine rebuild, Both great websites and customer service.

Any exhaust leak before the sensor will show you really lean - correct.

 

[teknicalissue]

i see.. well i bought the rear main seal and the oil pan gasket.. i need help looking for both axle seals... do we even have them?

EDIT: NVM asked my mechanic to look for them.

im excited!! i should have the tranny in by this sat =D along with a few fixes here and there

 

[viprez586]

Good stuff, I assume your talking about axle seals on the transmission side? Otherwise it's just CV boots on the other end.

Just a tip, people get upset here about little things like using "u" for you and improper gramma. It goes for good reason however because it makes things much easier to read and understand.
Don't want to put yourself on the hot seat.

 

[teknicalissue]

Good stuff, I assume your talking about axle seals on the transmission side? Otherwise it's just CV boots on the other end.

Finally got that transmission out and to my surprise, a clutch and pressure plate covered in oil. im going to safely assume its either because of of the tranny or rear main seal... The transmission was leaking ALOT of oil, once i took the long black flat piece of metal, you could literally see a slow drip continuously (when the car got cold it stopped)

while im down here, what are some other things i should look for?

Just a tip, people get upset here about little things like using "u" for you and improper gramma.

sorry but i had to giggle at the improper gramma's thing XD when i read it quick i thought you were saying improper grandmas so i was a bit confused.

i do get, and if i do do that, please point it out, i usually do it when im mad or excited

It goes for good reason however because it makes things much easier to read and understand.
Don't want to put yourself on the hot seat.

agreed

 

[dented_coffee]

You said do do! Sorry dude I just had to point that out .

 

[viprez586]

Finally got that transmission out and to my surprise, a clutch and pressure plate covered in oil. im going to safely assume its either because of of the tranny or rear main seal... The transmission was leaking ALOT of oil, once i took the long black flat piece of metal, you could literally see a slow drip continuously (when the car got cold it stopped)

It's from the rear main seal. The mechanic told you it was leaking.
You have to replace your clutch disc now since oil saturated into the material - this will cause the clutch to slip. Clean everything really good with brake cleaner.

G'luck man.

 

[teknicalissue]

so... transmission is in everything is in clutch bled out, seems ok.... UNTIL.. i turn on the car and try to move it

I push the clutch
put it in first
Slowly release the clutch
and as its about to grab.... *GRIINNDDD*

happens in all the gears and car wont move at all..

now for those of you who haven't seen my other post..

i tried to tow my AWD dsm on a front wheel strap trailer and locked my rear tires.. but once i stopped i reversed it and it became unlocked and took it back to where it first was... SO my next question is..

would this unfortunate event have anything to do with this mysterious grinding?

 

[dented_coffee]

Good stuff, I assume your talking about axle seals on the transmission side? Otherwise it's just CV boots on the other end.

Just a tip, people get upset here about little things like using "u" for you and improper gramma. It goes for good reason however because it makes things much easier to read and understand.
Don't want to put yourself on the hot seat.

I can't beleave no one caught this comment. We have a seal on the points where the axles attach to the trans, rear diff. We also have inner and outter seals on all 4 wheels to protect the wheel bearings exept the FWD they have one seal on the rear hub.

When you had the transfercase off did you inspect it? Did the wheels lock up and slide on dry pavement? Having that happen can and will cause damage. Mach-v makes a sticker for the AWD vehicles that gives a warning to AWD and never towing with 2 wheels on the ground or sever drive tarrain damage will result from it.

I would inspect the transfercase, rear diff, axles and the splines on everything that connects to another part on the drive tarrain.

Best of luck to you on your DSM.

 

[zatomz]

... never towing with 2 wheels on the ground or sever drive tarrain damage will result from it...

Its only fair that I call you out for your improper "grandma", wouldn't want to set bad examples.
I would like to give kudos to the OP, this reminds me of when I first started working and learning on my DSM. I creates a bond that, to me, is unmeasurable. I laughed so hard when you said you tasted the oil (I have been there!) Now the DSM will be in your blood forever. Welcome to the sickness

 

[dented_coffee]

Its only fair that I call you out for your improper "grandma", wouldn't want to set bad examples.
I would like to give kudos to the OP, this reminds me of when I first started working and learning on my DSM. I creates a bond that, to me, is unmeasurable. I laughed so hard when you said you tasted the oil (I have been there!) Now the DSM will be in your blood forever. Welcome to the sickness

Hey dude. I now know that my spelling was a bit off on the reply . At least I didn't tell him that it was a muffler bearing that was rattling and grinding or something . I'm like half asleep right now so I'm sorry if I sound like an ass to you.

I never taste new oil to tell what it taste like. Nor have I seen someone do it . I know some people smell the oil but there checking for gas and crap like that in it.

 

[teknicalissue]

thanks so much for the replies, i took the car to a mechanic (AGAIN) and they said it seems like its def the transfer case but they'll check to see what else is wrong today... the age old myth of your pockets getting lighter the day you buy a dsm is actually coming true XD

i hope its the transfer case and just the transfer case.. not anything else

 

[teknicalissue]

and as i drvie past my mechanics place... i notice that he hasn't even looked at my car..... ughh this waiting is killing me...

 

[teknicalissue]

UPDATE:

So i got pissed off, towed the car to my place, fixed it and now the car is moving =D

now i have another issue, im getting white smoke.. but i don't know if its my head gasket going or something else (see second pic below).

heres a vid for my white smoke: YouTube - DSM blown head gasket?
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another issue im having is that theres a hose for the coolant that i don't know where it goes.

Heres a Pic:

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The last issue im having is that one of the harness plugs broke (don't ask me how ) and i did a mickey mouse fix on it but i took it off because it wasn't working right.. where would i find this plug?

Heres pic:

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i think thats for the tempature switch (IM NOT TALKING ABOUT THE SENSOR! IM TALKING ABOUT THE PLUG FROM THE HARNESS!)

 

[92AWDHX40]

the plug looks broken correct.

 

[teknicalissue]

yep, its broken

 

[92AWDHX40]

i actually may have one i stock up on stuff like that. ill look.

 

[teknicalissue]

sweet, let me know =)

 

[92AWDHX40]

ill pm you in a bit i have a box of wire s and harness parts for the 1g.

 

[teknicalissue]

kk, do you think that plug has anything todo with me burning coolant?

 

[92AWDHX40]

no that is for a sensor for your coolant temperature, loss in coolant,could be blown hg, or leaking somewhere.