1990 mitsubishi GSX leaking and other issues

[teknicalissue]

Hello, i just purchased a 1990 Mitsubishi GSX with 260k miles for 1600. I don't know too much about cars but i'm still learning (just sold my b16 honda del sol).

The owner had said the he rebuilt the motor approximately 15,000 miles ago so there are no issues with that.

the owner also said that the slave solenoid might be leaking and that was about it.

Turns out i think the transmission is going bad (it grinds every time i go to 3rd) so it has its issues, but overall its running quite well.

Im a noob to dsm and even more of a noob when it comes to checks and maintenance. There is a leak (looks and smells like burnt oil) on the bottom of a car after its been ran. I just replaced the oil and i checked the dip stick and its definitely not burning oil. the oil seems to be coming from the oil pan but i'm not too sure why its dripping burnt when it isn't burnt.

Last but not least the car has little sputters (running at 12psi) and the headers tend to glow red after i run the car hard. I researched this and came to the conclusion that i may be running too lean/rich.

also i put the car up in a lifter and noticed that two brackets under the car that look like U's with black plasticky stuff (not the exhaust ones) that i don't know their name, are in really bad shape. I later figured out that because of those, my car makes a slamming noise on the bottom (center of the car) if i shift normally (i have to shift slowly)

I honestly don't know where to start or where to look for more issues, please advice.

although it has all of these issues, this is the greatest car i've ever purchased

 

[DSM1G90]

(could have pulled the MPI fuse - that would have kept the injectors from firing fuel into the cylinders..it's in the fuse holder that is attached to the battery positive connector)

You should have a button on the side of the tester to hold the highest reading after cranking. Sounds like the somewhat mechanic friend don't know how to run a compression tester as well..


Prob not doing it right then why your numbers are not looking good then ...

Good luck-DSM

 

[teknicalissue]

(could have pulled the MPI fuse - that would have kept the injectors from firing fuel into the cylinders..it's in the fuse holder that is attached to the battery positive connector)

You should have a button on the side of the tester to hold the highest reading after cranking. Sounds like the somewhat mechanic friend don't know how to run a compression tester as well..


Prob not doing it right then why your numbers are not looking good then ...

Good luck-DSM

ok thats fairly understandable (and another small light of hope for my dsm)

so i leave all plugs and wires in their places (except for the one im checking) currect? and i also pull the MPI fuse so it wont start instead of unplugging the spark plug wires from the coil pack.

is this right? i hope its just something stupid that im doing

I send the guy an email about what had been done to the motor and he said this:

Both where. Block if I recall was bored .20 over. Topline pistons and bearings in std compression. Balance shafts removed. Head was hot dipped. New valves, springs, 3rd gen lifters.

he also said that he would be happy to provide receipts...i think im doing the compression wrong

 

[teknicalissue]

Good news everyone!
It turned out that the mechanics compression utility was not working so i borrowed one from another shop, and these are the readings

1. 160
2. 155
3. 155
4. 170

let me know what you guys think =)

Also... would crossing wires on 2 and 3 (the owner had the wires crossed when i bought the car...).. would that cause any damage thus resulting in the low 155 compressions?

EDIT2: I should i also mention that i have found an exhaust leak.

When i buy the AFPR, what psi should i set it to if i wanted to run stock so i can make sure everything is running ok before i start modding?

(in the sake of proving to everyone im not just asking questions, heres what i have deducted from research)

With my 255 wally i should be running the pressure at 19.2 in order to get it to stock like flow. how? well according to this website: here
my stock pump does 102.2LPH at 43PSI
My wally pump is doing 229.02 at 43 psi

so in theory (and math) if my wally is running 43 psi at 229.02 then X would give me 102.2

(43 * 102.2) / 229.02 = X
X= 19.2

so through that i should be running my wally at 19.2 to match the 102.2 LPH my stock would have been doing

yes? no?

 

[4g63Powered]

Whoa, there... do NOT run that thing at 19psi.

Run the stock pressure.

 

[teknicalissue]

Whoa, there... do NOT run that thing at 19psi.

Run the stock pressure.

Thats what i was trying to figure out, isn't that the stock pressure?

 

[4g63Powered]

With the vacuum source taken off the AFPR, set it to 38psi.

 

[teknicalissue]

With the vacuum source taken off the AFPR, set it to 38psi.

ok perfect, perhaps a small explanation as to why remove vacuum and why 38?

also does the compression look ok?

 

[4g63Powered]

That's just the way to check it.

Compression looks fine.

 

[teknicalissue]

cool, ill post back with results as soon as i get the AFPR =)

Thanks guys (if you have anymore input feel free to chip in, ill be lurking around constantly)

 

[Clinical]

Yep compression looks good.

Not as skeptical now of the rebuilt motor, but then again most 200k mile DSM's have to of been rebuilt by now anyway.

 

[teknicalissue]

Just to keep everyone updated:

I checked the timing belt and it was new
I took out all of the coolant and added new coolant

everything seemed ok until i looked and the transmission

long story short, i need another one, my transmission is definitely not gonna cut it.

besides that, i noticed the the flex pipe is leaking exhaust (cause of my exhaust leak) so im gonna fix that, and i cleaned the bottom of my car to check for leaks.

 

[teknicalissue]

Question:

What kind of transmission do i have? 20 spline 21 or 23?

how do you tell? i tried looking but i couldn't find any info on it

Ive found some info... it says that i have a 22 spline (1990 eclipse) but all the websites i visit only offer 20,21,23

does anyone recommend a good place to buy transmissions? i tried a couple of salvage yards but found nothing =/

EDIT: Also, alot of people have told me that theres another problem besides the transmission.

when the car is in neutral (clutch in or out) and you rev it up, as soon as it hits 4k and up, the car makes a soft but loud metal grinding noise... best described as rubbing to round sheets of metal together in circles.

what could this be?

 

[Clinical]

Question:

What kind of transmission do i have? 20 spline 21 or 23?

how do you tell? i tried looking but i couldn't find any info on it

Ive found some info... it says that i have a 22 spline (1990 eclipse) but all the websites i visit only offer 20,21,23

does anyone recommend a good place to buy transmissions? i tried a couple of salvage yards but found nothing =/

EDIT: Also, alot of people have told me that theres another problem besides the transmission.

when the car is in neutral (clutch in or out) and you rev it up, as soon as it hits 4k and up, the car makes a soft but loud metal grinding noise... best described as rubbing to round sheets of metal together in circles.

what could this be?

Check your pulleys, make sure nothings loose and rubbing or hitting anything above 4k.

Buy your parts off jacktransmissions, or their rebuild kits and find someone who can do it. Don't pay out the ass for a rebuild.

Or if you have the money, get a rebuild from sheptrans and never look back.

 

[teknicalissue]

Check your pulleys, make sure nothings loose and rubbing or hitting anything above 4k.

Buy your parts off jacktransmissions, or their rebuild kits and find someone who can do it. Don't pay out the ass for a rebuild.

Or if you have the money, get a rebuild from sheptrans and never look back.

Already checked.. it sounds like its coming from the middle of my trans and block.. (plus nothing is moving because it happens when im in neutral both clutch in or out) when it gets in gear the noise disappears.


on a good note, i bought a transmission from a buddy of mine for $275

hurray for people upgrading their cars and not knowing what to do with the stock tranny's

I hope its the tranny thats giving me all of my headaches, after the tranny install tonight, i should be getting the AFPR soon to check if its the fuel pump thats messing everything up. Besides that, i gotta fix that flex pipe, carrier bearings and look for that stupid leak (i have not been able to find it still!! ) everytime i look under my car its all soaked again =(

I am now confused

I took the car up to a tuner and asked him about running too rich because my headers glow bright red... he just told me that that's happening because I'm running too lean. he raised the boost and ran it around town, came back and showed me the heaters.

surprisingly they were even brighter than before. How is it that I'm running too lean if i have that fuel pump and stock regulator?? i thought i was running rich

@.@

 

[viprez586]

EGT Explained

A good explanation of EGTs(exhaust gas temperature) and why a raise in EGTs from running rich will make your manifold glow.

Most people think running lean will do this - they're wrong, although it is horrible for the engine's health.

1Gs run as rich as 9.3:1 Air/Fuel Ratio(AFR) from the factory, that's practically shooting liquid gas out the tail pipe!
With a healthy motor and an AFR of 9ish under a WOT pull - I would not doubt the manifold would be glowing perfectly normal. I discovered my manifold glowing once after I got it running top-notch on my 1G (which at the time only hard intercooler piping).

Don't get me wrong though, you should address the AFPR.
Remeber 9.3:1 is for retards who put 87 octane in. A good tune should put you in the 11-11.5: 1 AFR neighborhood.

I'd be pissed if someone took my car out for a joy ride to show me that leaning my car out AND increasing boost will make my manifold glow. By doing that you're pushing no benefit and likely detonating thus retarding timing so bad the manifold glows.

 

[teknicalissue]

EGT Explained

A good explanation of EGTs(exhaust gas temperature) and why a raise in EGTs from running rich will make your manifold glow.

Most people think running lean will do this - they're wrong, although it is horrible for the engine's health.

1Gs run as rich as 9.3:1 Air/Fuel Ratio(AFR) from the factory, that's practically shooting liquid gas out the tail pipe!
With a healthy motor and an AFR of 9ish under a WOT pull - I would not doubt the manifold would be glowing perfectly normal. I discovered my manifold glowing once after I got it running top-notch on my 1G (which at the time only hard intercooler piping).

Don't get me wrong though, you should address the AFPR.
Remeber 9.3:1 is for retards who put 87 octane in. A good tune should put you in the 11-11.5: 1 AFR neighborhood.

I'd be pissed if someone took my car out for a joy ride to show me that leaning my car out AND increasing boost will make my manifold glow. By doing that you're pushing no benefit and likely detonating thus retarding timing so bad the manifold glows.

yea i wasn't too happy about that either... but i agree with him to an extent.

UPDATE:

Last night i unplugged the MBC and to my surprise, ALL of my issues disappeared, no red headers, no sputtering, no nothing.

I also figured out that im dripping some sort of odorless oil from a tube (ill post pics tomo hopefully but it is definitely the source of my dripping).

I bought transmission oil and the AEM wide band controller to correctly determine exactly whats going on with my engine.

I should bring this up as well... now that i unplugged the MBC, my boost gauge is showing that its pushing at 7psi.. i thought that stock psi was 12. could anyone tell me if 7 is ok? or am i having issues somewhere

I found my boost leak, the pipe to the BOV had no clamps and the tube is stiff and old.. i don't know if that would cause sputtering either

i bought the 7es spark plugs (with .28 gap) instead of the 6es that i got originally

and just for the hell of it, i got a nice little radio for 50 bucks to listen too when i drive my mini beast

 

[viprez586]

You're boost leak dropped you down to 7psi - likely. There's no harm in running lower boost - other then re-tuning for better gas mileage and efficiency overall.
I'd keep the 6es in. I still run the 6es - they look perfect - and I have a good amount of modifications done, granted I run 18psi daily. The guys who run one step colder plugs are pushing very high boost or have a noticed an issue with their plugs running too hot.
NGK.com - Spark Plug 411
NGKs website explains all the spark plug "reading" issues.

The odorless substance could just be excess moisture produced by the A/C system - if it still works. Otherwise shining a flashlight around the trans area quickly identifies if you have any green coolant leaks. Althought Coolant can leak in multiple areas.

Some MBCs are horrible and leak more then they should. Is it a cheapo? Is it hooked up correctly?(IE: single untouched pressure source from J-pipe or intake manifold)
12psi is fine, so is 7psi.

Fixing the boost leak should be #1 priority, it'll greatly affect how the car runs.
Here's some places to look that aren't typical of what people would think:
Injector O-ring seals
Turbo Compressor cover O-ring
Throttle body shaft seals
Throttle body gaskets
ALL vacuum lines
ALL intercooler piping
The intercooler itself (the aluminum usually corrodes around the connections)

The Trans temp gauge is pointless - your 5speed - you don't need to worry about the temperature of your transmission in a 5spd platform.
You can however use that gauge as a coolant temperature gauge. I plan on picking one of these up as well cause the factory gauge is very inaccurate and I like keeping my coolant temps in check at all times. That and I hate my cheapo cyberdyne gauge blinding me at night and glowing my entire interior blue at night.

 

[teknicalissue]

You're boost leak dropped you down to 7psi - likely. There's no harm in running lower boost - other then re-tuning for better gas mileage and efficiency overall.

agreed

I'd keep the 6es in. I still run the 6es - they look perfect - and I have a good amount of modifications done, granted I run 18psi daily. The guys who run one step colder plugs are pushing very high boost or have a noticed an issue with their plugs running too hot.
NGK.com - Spark Plug 411
NGKs website explains all the spark plug "reading" issues.

I went with the 7's because another DSM'er suggested that it was runing too hot and it was causing the engine to detonate.... when your a noob, its hard to tell the difference between good advice and crapvice.. i did research it and i did know it was for higher mod cars... and yet i still listened

The odorless substance could just be excess moisture produced by the A/C system - if it still works. Otherwise shining a flashlight around the trans area quickly identifies if you have any green coolant leaks. Althought Coolant can leak in multiple areas.

i think its gear oil the cars been dripping for a while now and my oil level seems to be ok... also the stuff thats leakin is heavy-ish and super black.. tastes a little tiny bit like oil... but not as strong a taste as motor oil (yes.. i got desperate because it was odorless).

Also my transmission is giving me more issues (perhaps... low gear oil??) the shifter "feels" like its going in to 2nd 4th and reverse... but its not. its not grabbing right at all. this is why i think my tranny is leaking, nothing else has gone bad because of the leaks except the tranny.

Some MBCs are horrible and leak more then they should. Is it a cheapo? Is it hooked up correctly?(IE: single untouched pressure source from J-pipe or intake manifold)
12psi is fine, so is 7psi.

agreed, after bumping the psi back to 12, no sputtering and it runs quite well... yes the MBC is cheapo, i am indeed planning to buy one as well.

Fixing the boost leak should be #1 priority, it'll greatly affect how the car runs.
Here's some places to look that aren't typical of what people would think:
Injector O-ring seals
Turbo Compressor cover O-ring
Throttle body shaft seals
Throttle body gaskets
ALL vacuum lines
ALL intercooler piping
The intercooler itself (the aluminum usually corrodes around the connections)

ALL of the vacuum lines are old and cracky so i will replace, the gaskets look fine

i will check the O rings though.

The Trans temp gauge is pointless - your 5speed - you don't need to worry about the temperature of your transmission in a 5spd platform.
You can however use that gauge as a coolant temperature gauge. I plan on picking one of these up as well cause the factory gauge is very inaccurate and I like keeping my coolant temps in check at all times. That and I hate my cheapo cyberdyne gauge blinding me at night and glowing my entire interior blue at night.

i like the good advice don't get me wrong... but where did we bring up trans temp?

ALTHOUGHHH i am looking for a 3rd gauge i have a boost and wideband... what other one do you think i should be running? if need be i can hook up 4.

 

[viprez586]

I went with the 7's because another DSM'er suggested that it was runing too hot and it was causing the engine to detonate.... when your a noob, its hard to tell the difference between good advice and crapvice.. i did research it and i did know it was for higher mod cars... and yet i still listened

Just read your plugs to get a good understanding, silver aluminum flakes means your detonating.

i think its gear oil the cars been dripping for a while now and my oil level seems to be ok... also the stuff thats leakin is heavy-ish and super black.. tastes a little tiny bit like oil... but not as strong a taste as motor oil (yes.. i got desperate because it was odorless).

Also my transmission is giving me more issues (perhaps... low gear oil??) the shifter "feels" like its going in to 2nd 4th and reverse... but its not. its not grabbing right at all. this is why i think my tranny is leaking, nothing else has gone bad because of the leaks except the tranny.

, understandable. Yes there is a slip-yoke seal that was part of a safety bulletin, you can find more info about it on vfaq. (This would address a leak not really a grind however since it's part of the T-case)
3rd gear grinding is likely just a synchro issue, but fluid level and condition should be regularly checked and maintained.

agreed, after bumping the psi back to 12, no sputtering and it runs quite well... yes the MBC is cheapo, i am indeed planning to buy one as well.

You don't need a fancy one, just go with something reputable IMO.

ALL of the vacuum lines are old and cracky so i will replace, the gaskets look fine
i will check the O rings though.

Best way is to double check everything, they could look physically okay, but leak.

i like the good advice don't get me wrong... but where did we bring up trans temp?

You said you bought a trans temp and wideband. I figured you wanted to monitor your trans temp - the gauge can be used for multiple applications however.

ALTHOUGHHH i am looking for a 3rd gauge i have a boost and wideband... what other one do you think i should be running? if need be i can hook up 4.

Well you've got the temperature gauge - which i would recommend using as coolant temp.
Next important one would be oil pressure - make sure you get an electrical sending unit type.
Otherwise EGTs is good but kind of redundant for tuning - but never hurts. "They" say if you don't have a wideband tuning with EGTs is a good substitute - since it directly relates to timing and AFR.
It's completely up to you.
My favorite is the factory boost gauge converted to knock sum - that way i don't have to plug in my datalogger. Of course you need ecmlink or an EPROM chip tune to do this. This really wouldn't be ideal for you though since the modifications you have don't really call for some tuning device like these.
Just FYI, don't waste your money on an SAFC, dsmlink(ecmlink) is by far the best bang for the buck.
(I had my SAFCII left over from previous car)

 

[teknicalissue]

Just read your plugs to get a good understanding, silver aluminum flakes means your detonating.

now to buy 4 more plugs

, understandable. Yes there is a slip-yoke seal that was part of a safety bulletin, you can find more info about it on vfaq. (This would address a leak not really a grind however since it's part of the T-case)
3rd gear grinding is likely just a synchro issue, but fluid level and condition should be regularly checked and maintained.

eh its w.e, like i said im gonna get the new tranny i bought put in there soon so im not too devastated on destroying this one =P

You don't need a fancy one, just go with something reputable IMO.

true, the MBC that came when i bought the car seemed alright but still there is no brand name or any info at all... plus it was zip tied to the fan.. as i said i need to do some work on the car =P

Best way is to double check everything, they could look physically okay, but leak.

yep yep, gonna check out some more today maybe there's more leaks

You said you bought a trans temp and wideband. I figured you wanted to monitor your trans temp - the gauge can be used for multiple applications however.

hmm.. im having a moment, i cannot find it anywhere where i said trans temp . im sooo lost

Well you've got the temperature gauge - which i would recommend using as coolant temp.
Next important one would be oil pressure - make sure you get an electrical sending unit type.
Otherwise EGTs is good but kind of redundant for tuning - but never hurts. "They" say if you don't have a wideband tuning with EGTs is a good substitute - since it directly relates to timing and AFR.

i have no temp gauge =P, soo.. get boost AEM wideband, and Oil pressure? does that sound right?

It's completely up to you.

if it was completely up to me id have the autozone narrow band rich lean gauge with the 20 dollar boost gauge and oil temp gauge

My favorite is the factory boost gauge converted to knock sum - that way i don't have to plug in my datalogger. Of course you need ecmlink or an EPROM chip tune to do this. This really wouldn't be ideal for you though since the modifications you have don't really call for some tuning device like these.
Just FYI, don't waste your money on an SAFC, dsmlink(ecmlink) is by far the best bang for the buck.
(I had my SAFCII left over from previous car)

hmm.. thats pretty cool using the old gauge as a knock sensor.. and yea i will be buying dsmlink at some point or another

 

[viprez586]

I bought transmission oil and the AEM wide band controller to correctly determine exactly whats going on with my engine.

Are you just stating that bought transmission gear oil, not a gauge for monitoring temperature?

Boost gauge is a must.
Wideband is crucial for tuning.
Some would argue what's next important. I'd say oil pressure gauge - but please don't cheap out and run hot oil into your cabin - get the electrical sending unit type.

If I were you I'd concentrate on the issues at hand first. If you have to replace something - that can be replaced with an "upgrade" great - then do it.
First fix the little things, then worry about all the goodies later.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Oil pressure, wideband, boost, i have those i believe its the top three, oil pressue gauge, i have one now never liked the stock one anyway. The one i have now is more accurate.

 

[teknicalissue]

Are you just stating that bought transmission gear oil, not a gauge for monitoring temperature?

yes sorry for the confusion =P

Boost gauge is a must.
Wideband is crucial for tuning.
Some would argue what's next important. I'd say oil pressure gauge - but please don't cheap out and run hot oil into your cabin - get the electrical sending unit type.

ok oil pressure it is (it was just a miscellaneous question, i don't want to stray from the true topic of the thread, my mod sense is tingling)

If I were you I'd concentrate on the issues at hand first. If you have to replace something - that can be replaced with an "upgrade" great - then do it.
First fix the little things, then worry about all the goodies later.

agreed, it was just a curious small question, my goal for tomorrow is to put that new tranny in after that im going to get new tubes for the turbo to kill the leaks and such.

i am hoping the guy sold me the car so cheap because of its crappy trans

 

[teknicalissue]

UPDATE:

Talked to a legit mechanic today and he pin pointed some stuff i need to definately fix

carrier bearings are bad (i knew this)

i have 2 bad U joints

my flex is leaking (i knew this)

my oil pan seal is the cheapo type so thats leaking

my front and rear crank seals are leaking as well

at least i know more of what is going on.

Also i installed the wideband today (hurray) and im gonna take the car of a test drive tomorow, what exactly am i looking for?

 

[viprez586]

The lower the number the richer, the higher the leaner. WOT & Lean do not mix.

Idle and cruise AFR dancing around 14.7- 15.7 - it doesn't have to stay there solid. Just cycling or dancing.

WOT - since it's probably aiming for the factory 9.3:1 AFR it should be down there(pig rich). Anything above 11.8:1 and let off the throttle immediately since you'll probably be pulling timing anyways.
Ideal AFR if you have a method of tuning would be 10.8-11.5 AFR - or until you have no knock.


(Before someone shouts off remember the aggressive 1G timing maps here. 24* of timing advance makes some good power but not a lot of room for a leaner A/FR.)
This is why I recommend a logger to watch timing, knock, and I like to watch IDC(injector duty cycle) as to figure out how close I'm really pushing my fuel system.

If you feel like your going no where and your AFR is good/safe you're probably picking up knock some how. Don't continually do this since it causes high EGTs and can damage stuff in the long run.

I'm probably missing something but I'm on lunch break and about to run out the door.
G'luck!