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16g flapper help

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Empir3 X

15+ Year Contributor
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Oct 13, 2006
Centerville, Ohio
I just received a fully ported 16g from a private sale on the classified section of the site, and upon inspection i have noticed that the flapper seems to have been pressed to far in. A sliver of the waste gate passage hole is visible when the flapper is shut. Can i just go to a machine shop and get the flapper pressed back 9-10mm or what should i do.....Its a big disappointment due to the fact its holding my build up, and I am not sure what to do with my car already taken apart.



Any ideas thoughts will help

Thanks, Alex
 
So if you move the flapper with your hand it will cover the hole completely? If thats what is happening you can just weld the flapper to the arm so it will open and close fully if its doing what I think it is. My buddy also over ported his turbo and the flapper would catch in the hole and not cover it, he just did a little welding and it works fine, good luck!
 
So if you move the flapper with your hand it will cover the hole completely? If thats what is happening you can just weld the flapper to the arm so it will open and close fully if its doing what I think it is. My buddy also over ported his turbo and the flapper would catch in the hole and not cover it, he just did a little welding and it works fine, good luck!

No. without touching the flapper at all when it is closed there is a gap where you can see through to the other side. It cant be moved in any way to cover the entire hole as is, but if it could be moved back a bit it would work. I guess i did not clarify enough in the description.......Thanks though
 
No. without touching the flapper at all when it is closed there is a gap where you can see through to the other side. It cant be moved in any way to cover the entire hole as is, but if it could be moved back a bit it would work. I guess i did not clarify enough in the description.......Thanks though

I won't be a huge help here, but I've read threads with the opposite situation; the flapper shaft walked out of the housing (yours went in) leaving a gap when the flapper is closed. I forget the complete solution, but you might try searching around for similar threads. You might also try PM-ing Mr Peepers. He's been tinkering with WGs quite a bit lately and, unlike me, might remember the details.
 
I'm not sure I read that right, but I would think you could just install a 34mm flapper from SBR and port match the wastegate hole to that.

While we're on the topic of porting, make sure you port for boost creep :thumb:
 
yea just get a 34mm flapper, when i ported mine i opened mine up and put on the 34mm flapper
 
The only thing I can see pulling the flapper assembly back a little bit would be a slide hammer. There is a sleeve over the flapper arm that is pressed into the housing, and it took some good whacks to move my old one back into place. I just don't see any spots to hit on the other side without bending/breaking anything. (note: this is not what the arrow is pointing to in the picture)

I just tried prying mine back but it wouldn't even budge; maybe yours is looser and it's worth a shot. Otherwise, I would tack weld a slide hammer to the center of the lever pivot. You could make your own slide hammer if you had a welder, but I don't know what materials or resources are available to you.

To get the old flapper off you need to grind the top "button" away on the flapper itself(seen in pic), then it will be able to come out the other side. Install the 34mm flapper in its place and either tap on the top to mushroom the pin over or put a slit in the center and spread it apart. A center punch in the center of the pin etc. Either way, you want to keep the flapper from coming back off. You can now port the wastegate passage larger if you wish, but be careful not to create the same situation and go too far :p I would think it would be easier to port/check/port/check while the 34mm is still removable.

I won't be a huge help here, but I've read threads with the opposite situation; the flapper shaft walked out of the housing (yours went in) leaving a gap when the flapper is closed. I forget the complete solution, but you might try searching around for similar threads. You might also try PM-ing Mr Peepers. He's been tinkering with WGs quite a bit lately and, unlike me, might remember the details.

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hmmm ok. Well i guess what i am going to do is bring it to the machine shop tomorrow when i get out of school and see if they can do anything. The deal here is that even if i put a bigger flapper on, the arm is still pressed in too far. I wish i had a camera to show whats going on.
Thanks for the ideas and after i go to the shop ill report back on my findings.
 
I see how the flapper install works now Mr. Peepers. I wasn't sure until i saw i picture of just the flapper when i was searching for one. I found this one at a reasonable price: Slowboy Racing :: DSM :: Do It Yourself Parts :: Misc. :: 34mm Flapper (Just the Flapper)

So i guess after you grind off the top of the old one you can just slide the new one up after taking the old out, and then crush the piece coming through to keep it in place. If the machine shop can fix my prob for a reasonable amount ill have them do it but if not i guess ill but the bigger flapper and then use a file to port it out a little more (its already ported)
 
I see how the flapper install works now Mr. Peepers. I wasn't sure until i saw i picture of just the flapper when i was searching for one. I found this one at a reasonable price: Slowboy Racing :: DSM :: Do It Yourself Parts :: Misc. :: 34mm Flapper (Just the Flapper)

So i guess after you grind off the top of the old one you can just slide the new one up after taking the old out, and then crush the piece coming through to keep it in place. If the machine shop can fix my prob for a reasonable amount ill have them do it but if not i guess ill but the bigger flapper and then use a file to port it out a little more (its already ported)

I wouldn't use the word 'crush,' rather 'beat the s**t out of it with a ballpeen hammer.' It takes awhile. But I've gotten two of these from SBR, both have worked fine.

You may also want to invest in some carbide bits. Porting for boost creep is always a good idea.
 
i fixed the problem. I heated up the arm and bent it ever so slightly to cover the hole.

On another note j eclipse the turbo is well ported so creep should not be an issue. I have a 2.5" O2 housing im using as well.

Thanks for the ideas and help everyone :thumb:
 
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