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1000 miles and it crank walked?

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50trimgst

10+ Year Contributor
151
2
Sep 6, 2010
Mt.pleasant, Pennsylvania
RESOLVED. Ok so my motor has abought 1000 miles on the new motor. On my way to work my clutch does not disengage. It has a cheap clutch master cylinder but my peadal has not changed. It happend all at once
 
Last edited:
Did you check crank end play before saying your motor walked...?

.002 - .0071 with an absolute max of .0098
 
sounds like a clutch problem. does it go into the gears when the car is not running? if it does, then it's probably a pressure plate failure. if you loose some of the fingers; it will make it very hard or impossible to disengage/engage the clutch.
 
JFC

There is a 99.9% chance you don't have crankwalk. Check your clutch fluid and the adjustment on the master cylinder.
 
Again, & people wonder why "every 2g CW's" :toobad:

If you are talking 95-97, it's because they do. I have torn apart a ton of 4g63's, and i'm surprised when a 95-97 doesn't have visible thrust bearing wear.

That being said, you can't claim crankwalk every time the crappy dsm hydraulic clutch system has a problem. Go to harbor freight, buy a dial indicator, and magnetic base, and post up the endplay. Easier yet, if the thrust is worn enough to cause the clutch to not work, you can push the crankshaft in and out with your hands with very noticeable movement.
 
If you are talking 95-97, it's because they do. I have torn apart a ton of 4g63's, and i'm surprised when a 95-97 doesn't have visible thrust bearing wear.

That being said, you can't claim crankwalk every time the crappy dsm hydraulic clutch system has a problem. Go to harbor freight, buy a dial indicator, and magnetic base, and post up the endplay. Easier yet, if the thrust is worn enough to cause the clutch to not work, you can push the crankshaft in and out with your hands with very noticeable movement.

Well yeah... anything with miles on it is going to show some wear. It's a bearing, after all... they can and do wear out. "crankwalk" is when this bearing prematurely fails. I'm sure this has been covered a bazillion times over. I now have 3 95 engines... none of which have had this problem.
 
The symptoms I've read is the clutch sticking causing engagement problems all at once but the threads I read the more I dougbt it's cw sorry for jumping the gun. I normally don't do that. My pedal feels normal not like it normally does when I've had a master fail. Tho I'll check into it tonight.

The symptoms I've read is the clutch sticking causing engagement problems all at once but the threads I read the more I dougbt it's cw sorry for jumping the gun. I normally don't do that. My pedal feels normal not like it normally does when I've had a master fail. Tho I'll check into it tonight.



Ok lunch break go out and everything is normal? I'm baffled
 
Well you said you have a cheap master cylinder so that is a problem for one. It's almost certainly going to fail much sooner then an OEM one so I would replace that regardless. Other then that, do as everyone else already suggested.
 
No offense, O.P.- but this is the most ridiculous thread I've read in a while.

You can't diagnose crankwalk without actually measuring crank end play, FYI.

well you could.Like my buddys 2g i didnt have to measure it ### i could see it move a good 1/8 inch just by grabbin it and pulling and pushing. But most cases i do agree just cant assume
 
do: put OEM parts on your dsm.
don't: put crap autozone parts on your dsm.
 
ok mitsu master on and the pedal is very firm. it goes to far and hits a brick wall. all adjustmats have been made.
Is this hard spot in the system syptoms of a failed pressure plate?
 
ok mitsu master on and the pedal is very firm. it goes to far and hits a brick wall. all adjustmats have been made.
Is this hard spot in the system syptoms of a failed pressure plate?

When a spring pops out of the disk it can cause those symptoms. I had to drive 200 miles home before with a clutch that didn't work from a popped spring. The pedal doesn't travel all the way, it gets stuck as you describe.
 
^I DID THAT FOR QUITE SOME TIME, BUT IT GOT REALLY ANNOYING CHANGING THE DAM THING WEEK AFTER WEEK.

As for the OP Check these videos:
<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/vYJxQyjIhUw?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/vYJxQyjIhUw?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>
Proper Clutch Adjustment

You might wanna check this one out too!:
<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/omAw-TgCYzM?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/omAw-TgCYzM?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>
PIVOT BALL SHIMMING

Best bet is that assuming you properly bleeded your clutch line, you never adjusted your pedal. Well best of luck!
 
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