1000+ HP clutch selection

[1gDSM4g63]

a tilton should hold at this power level also

and the ptt setup has proven strength, and does feel great on the street. Just because you think a light flywheel is weak doesn't mean anything, the only thing that does mean anything is proof, witch you have none of. Not trying to be rude but it appears that your are talking a little bit out of your level of knowledge.

Okay, I don't really care. It just my posting on a forum. All I'm telling you is that light flywheels is not the best choice of 950lbs of torque. If you watch the Fidanza, listen to ACT, read RRE opinion, or even both to do a little research you believe what you believe. People with high torque drag racers don't even consider going as light as Fidanza 8 lbs.

 

[kraka]

Devo Tuning is one of my local shops, so of course I will recommend the Quartermaster/Devo twin disc...

Just in case that isn't baller enough, there are a number of companies that make triple carbon plate clutches...I know my buddy ran a Triple Carbon Devo Tuning clutch on his 42r EvoIX, it sure as hell held the power and easily handled the 8,000 RPM launches....

I say its 'baller' because it comes with a price tag of somewhere in the $4500 range

 

[inneedof]

Okay, I don't really care. It just my posting on a forum. All I'm telling you is that light flywheels is not the best choice of 950lbs of torque. If you watch the Fidanza, listen to ACT, read RRE opinion, or even both to do a little research you believe what you believe. People with high torque drag racers don't even consider going as light as Fidanza 8 lbs.

but the ptt setup, witch you were arguing against is built for a lot-o-power, new turbo tuner, was not referencing the fidanza or the act flywheels

 

[thekellbeast]

I was talking about lighter than the Fidanza 8 lbs flywheel. I'm pretty sure Fidanza makes the lightest flywheel for DSM and I'm pretty sure it is possible to go even light with just as much strength as aluminum with a different material.

The weight of the flywheel isn't the only thing that affects how it drives. If you've ever watched the Fidanza tech interview on Streetfire, you would have seen their guy explain how two different flywheels, both weighing the same, can behave completely differently just based on how the weight is distributed. So an 8lb flywheel with the weight distributed towards the outside could behave more like a stock flywheel than a 12lb flywheel with its weight concentrated around the center.

Besides, the Fidanza flywheel is SFI certified, stock and some others aren't.

Is there some sort of driveability problem with Fidanza flywheels? I've never heard anyone complain. I might take a day or so to adjust your driving habits, but it's not the end of the world.

 

[SpeedAddict62]

Ok, I think you have the right idea, kind of. But the wrong reasoning.

Choosing a flywheel of the correct weight is based on the application, not just by how much power you are making. People generally don't go with super light flywheels in drag racing (or rock crawling) applications because they don't want to reduce the inertia (or maybe they want to increase it. This is covered in the Fidanza video you refered to, which can be seen here: Fidanza vid. I think this has more to do with not bogging the launch than "over-revving" (how could you do that anyway??).

You can't go too light, say, on a street car, because of the drivability issues, as stated above. Stalling when you push in the clutch, for example. The engine would decelerate so fast the ecu couldn't react fast enough. Obviously Fidanza thinks its found "as light as you can go."

Obviously, less rotating weight is going to help acceleration. Its going to take less force to spin a light flywheel compared to a heavier one. And its going to put less load on other components (crank, bearings).

Do you see these high horsepower applications using twin disk setups having any problems? Not one. And all the reviews I've read say they outperform the single disk setups.

I see no evidence to support the belief that lots of torque means you have to run a heavy flywheel.

 

[topstreet]

READ THE THREAD THE WHOLE THING!

Please read though the thread and pay specific attention to the posts I made referring to MOI or Moment of Inertia. Overall diameter has a much greater effect then overall weight does. It’s very simple: ANYTHING that will assist the cranks acceleration or allow easier acceleration is going to make more power. My beef with aluminum flywheels is that the one I had expanded (from heat) so much that it stretched the ring gear. The way I launch my car has a lot to do with that, but it still did it. Chromoly steel or just standard steel (not cast) like I have now, does not have the same expansion characteristics.

BTW: PTT twin discs are not rated for 900lbs of trq no matter which discs you use, and the only flywheels I have seen crack and break are heat cracked ones. This is going to be cause by a severely slipping clutch. Making the root of the problem the clutch, not the flywheel.

Hope this info helps,

Jake

 

[NewTurboTuner]

The standard PTT twin disk is rated at about 600 ft-lbs total. The Organic disks are rated at 400 ft-lbs a piece. That would be 800 ft-lbs in a twin. They have a disk rated at 600 ft-lbs a piece too, but usually for a single disk set-up. PTT also provides custom rated set-ups. 900+ ft-lbs is do-able, but they don't recommend it, because it'll beating up a drive train.

 

[topstreet]

Taken directly from PowerTrain Technologies website:

"For the most part, you can plan on approximately 300 lb.ft. of torque capacity per 7.25" disc. PTT metalic friction matierals stand up to extreme heat abuse better than organic friction materials do."

REFFERANCE THIS PDF FILE

Also make sure to read the section on MOI.

Quarter masters site is down right now, but I can specifically remember the torque capacity on the TWIN disc being 600 ft lbs, and the triple disc being 900.

Otherwise, if there is some developement that has occured I am not aware of it.

 

[NewTurboTuner]

Yes thats where I'm quoting from aswell.
That is the Sintered Bronze Metalic disk that you are refuring too.

They also have the Organic Disk
"Generalt you can plan on approximately 400 lb. ft. of torque per 7.25" disk"

And the Sinterd Iron Disk
"has a torque rating in excess of 600 lb. ft."

 

[topstreet]

Look at the fine print on it though. The Organic discs loose their coefficiant of friction (Cf) when the temp goes up. This doesnt make them very practical for anyone who actually needs 800+ lbs of torque capacity. DSMs need to be slipped to allow for a successful launch.

The iron disc is also mentioned in a single disc form. Those are just too grabby. Again, you are going to have a "great" time trying to get that one to slip.

For ANY practical purpass, the bronze disc is the way to go. Organic discs just do not respond well to the abuse. I am not saying it isnt possible, I am just saying it is not practical. This is just my opinion though. If you feel that strongly that the organic or iron discs will hold more power and do it in a usable way, then by all means go for it. I on the other hand am going to continue using my bronze discs because I know they can be slipped, hold over 600lbs trq, tolerate extreme heat and last too.