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0 compression in 3 cylinders

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faulkner

Proven Member
191
1
Apr 22, 2013
spring lake, Michigan
Okay just finished 6-bolt swap in my 1995 GS-T. 7-bolt head, 6-bolt block.
everything checked out, cas wired right, with new plugs and wires. timing set perfect. NO START! Got fuel and spark no codes thrown. So did a compression test and cylinder closest to the timing belt held 130psi, than all the rest held 0!
re torqued the head bolts to 100. top-line head-bolts and brand new head gasket.
Also did a leak-down test and couldn't really tell where it was coming from since the leak was so big. but it was coming out of the other cylinders. Also since all headbolts were just re torqued and the leakdown didnt spin the turbo or intake from what i heard could it still be valves?? need help asap! thank you.
 
^^ Well most of the motors ive heard/seen of that walked usually take other things out along the way right. It's possible the motor walked the timing jumped and was just at the right place to tap a few valves. Could you really say its not possible? Especially if it walked while doing like a 100mph LOL!! But since the o.p. is asking us about bleeding the lifters, it sounds like that might have been his problem.
 
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^^ Well most of the motors ive heard/seen of that walked usually take other things out along the way right. It's possible the motor walked the timing jumped and was just at the right place to tap a few valves. Could you really say its not possible? Especially if it walked while doing like a 100mph LOL!! But since the o.p. is asking us about bleeding the lifters, it sounds like that might have been his problem.

Crank walk doesn't just happen out of the blue. I is something that gradually happens as the thrust bearing wears. I am not sure you know what crank walk is. Basically it is just excess thrust play on the crank. 99 percent of the time you will destroy the crank sensor before it gets real bad. I have torn down around 10 7 bolts with excessive thrust play and none had anything catastrophic that could cause valves to be bent.
 
Dude are you joking with me you must be LOL, don't insult me man! And most of the time what people say is crankwalk really isn't. I was just pointing out the possibility and nothing else, because it is a possibility, anything could happen and you can't say it can't. And dude if it slowly is getting excessive play eventually it will fail, well that last time could who knows cause a bearing to spin and then a rod to snap dude anythings possible. And for you to say its not is just foolish. Wad trying to help the o.p. open his mind to figure out what really happen, and look at every situation that he had. You can get off the high horse now and come back to reality! We obviously figured out he didn't bleed his lifters before start up, so most likely the cause.
 
Dude are you joking with me you must be LOL!! And most of the time what people say is crankwalk really isn't. I was just pointing out the possibility and nothing else, trying to help the o.p. open his mind to figure out what really happen. You can get off the high horse now and come back to reality!

No high horse here. Just speaking the truth. Crank walk is just a worn thrust bearing, nothing more, nothing less. When it gets to a certain point the crank sensor is destroyed and the engine no longer runs.
 
okay cool i will try that. and a felpro headgasket a good choice?

Go with oem mls head gasket. don't waste your time or money with any composite head gasket. Also anytime you pull a head off any block have it checked for being wrapped and if it is have the machine shop deck the head and go throw the head. Save yourself time and money by doing it right the first time. Don't rush just to get it done. Plus topline head bolts. again put a set of arp head studs. your going to stretch those bolts blow out a head gasket
 
^^ he should only be using mls of the block was properly decked and head as well. If they aren't than the mls Is useless and probably won't seal good. So if nothing is decked composite is the best option.

Bryanwheat- Anyway, so what if all that happen at 140mph. The excessive play finally is enough to take out the crank sensor, but before all that it was bending the trigger plate which who knows somehow cuts into the timing belt and it breaks then what. In that crazy scenario you still going to say its not possible?
 
Anyway, so what if all that happen at 140mph. The excessive play finally is enough to take out the crank sensor, but before all that it was bending the trigger plate which who knows somehow cuts into the timing belt and it breaks then what. In that crazy scenario you still going to say its not possible?

Well it only takes a few mm of play before the crank sensor is destroyed, so I see it as very highly unlikely.
 
Let's get something straight here- the ONLY way crank thrust wear could effect anything in the head is if the movement was SO excessive that it derailed the balance shaft belt and caused the timing belt to break. On a 2G 7-bolt, the thrust wear would wipe out the crank sensor and shut the engine down long before it moved enough to cause the balance belt to fail. Considering the timing belt is the only thing that links the crank to the head, it's theoretically impossible that as much as 1/8" or less of crank thrust movement is going to result in bent valves.
 
The excessive play finally is enough to take out the crank sensor, but before all that it was bending the trigger plate which who knows somehow cuts into the timing belt and it breaks then what. In that crazy scenario you still going to say its not possible?
Metal trigger plate > Plastic crank sensor.

Anything's possible I suppose, I've seen lots of crazy shit in my day- but upon tearing down said engine, anyone with even the smallest bit of mechanical knowledge would say "holy balls, this timing belt is screwed...I'm pretty sure I have some bent valves" and then check the head before choosing to re-use it.
 
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