I just took it for a small spin and we are back to square one. It's stuttering when I drive...

It might be worth going back through some of the typical simple stuff. I haven't followed too closely so I apologize if this has been done already or if I'm completely off base.

I interpret "stuttering" like possible spark issues. So new standard plugs gapped .28 - NGK bpr6es (I once tried 7's and had issues that were better with 6's). New spark plug wires. NGK have always been my go-to. Wires are a common issue so do this if you haven't already. Inspect the plug connectors inside the coil for corrosion. Run it in the dark and look for arching from the coil or plug wires or anywhere else for that matter. Verify your grounds are tight and clean. Intake manifold to firewall is an important ground - you don't want it grounding through the throttle cable, which could cause intermittent issues.

dwb said:

It might be worth going back through some of the typical simple stuff. I haven't followed too closely so I apologize if this has been done already or if I'm completely off base.

Click to expand...

That's a good call. Let me go back through this stuff and report back!

Do the basic "tune up". You know its probably needed anyway. Plugs/wires, new filters and such. Eliminate those as they are always needed then let's see what is still going on. I'm sorry if I didn't catch that you already did it, if so.

So I will just kinda give a summary of everything that I have done up to this point since this has been an ongoing issue and keep ppl from having to read through everything to figure it out themselves.

THINGS I'VE DONE:
-swapped my plugs from the 7's back to the ngk bpr6ext's and gapped them to .28.
-checked for arching in the dark.
-rechecked grounds and added a 10ga. ground from the IM cable adjustment to firewall. Just to be sure that I have all the grounds that are needed:

• battery ground
• ground from bellhousing to firewall
• the two engine harness grounds that are on the passenger side that go to firewall.
• the end of the harness ground thing that goes under the passenger fender.
• the ground behind the driver side headlight.
• ground from IM to firewall.
• the grounds under both seats.
• the ground behind the center console on the floor (I believe only has one from factory).
• grounds for aftermarket sensors (which I haven't tied to my ecu sensor ground pin and just have them grounded to chassis but don't think that's an issue)?
• ground for horn button.
• if any of the harness connector plugs provide ground instead of power I haven't listed them out, but they are all plugged in.

-pulled and inspected all harnesses excluding the one that runs to the rear.
-Opened ECU and confirmed that it is good from the God himself, Tom from ECM Tuned.
-deleted my FIAV by screwing the adjustment all the way in.
-bought a new IAC Valve.
-checked for boost leaks via smoke test.
-charged battery overnight to full.
-installed new knock sensor from Extreme PSI.
-installed new ignition switch from NAPA (though it doesn't click back into the office position).
-new AEM Fuel pump
-checked and cleaned coil plugs (though they weren't corroded).

CURRENT PROBLEMS:
-car doesn't always crank when turning key. Sometimes I have to turn it back and forth before it actually cranks.
-the stuttering issue that I have numerous videos of in this thread.
-inline fuse that is on the blue clock spring wire is still blowing.
-there seems to be a short in the interior fuse box somewhere because sometimes my gauge cluster will stop working and if I move that then it works again.

THINGS IT COULD BE (but I am honestly just guessing at this point)??:
-oil leaked onto my wb sensor and maybe screwed something up?
-starter solenoid shorting out sometimes?
-spark plug wires?

All right so I finally got all the stuff in and I swapped out my fuel filter and my spark plug wires with ngks. I did not get new spark plugs because those are new already. I also checked the ohms on the coils through the plug and both are reading 1.5 with spark plug wires unplugged and the car off.

I unfortunately didn't get a chance to go for a ride, however when I started it up it did sound slightly better but does still sound like the stutter is there.

Is there a chance that there is some sort of short or connection issue in the interior fuse box that is causing a voltage drop and then somehow contributing to this problem?

Also, please go back to my previous post because I edited where exactly the grounds are that I was checking and want to double-check that those are in fact all of them.


UPDATE: I found that my ISC valve seems to be making noises with the key in the on position when I wiggle the plug. I don't see anything that looks loose though and all of the connecters themselves seem tight.

I also found that with my ignition switch unplugged, my BR START wire has cont. with ground, but I have bypassed the starter switch by connecting the BR and BY wires on the starter relay together. I have heard that this can cause a false ground because of the resistance it receives through the starter solenoid?

I found that I never unplugged my clutch safety switch and I'm thinking that may be contributing to some of the cars no-crank problems. I was curious where the other plug goes to? I noted the 2 pin with the green/black and black wire plugs into a 2 pin with a black and blue wire. I tried to look at a diagram but can't seem to find where that blue wire goes to. Is that one of the wires that goes to that inline fuse that keeps blowing? Would my bypassing the starter switch cause any of these issues if I left my clutch safety switch plugged in?