I replaced my clutch and fly wheel on my manual 1997 eclipse GSX and the throw out bearing. I got the car all assembled, transmission is in, and shifter linkage is on. I didn’t move or touch anything to my shifter linkage or clutch pedal and I wanted to try and see if all the gears go in. The car has no transmission oil and I haven’t started the car at all yet I just wanted to see if it’ll go into gear when it’s off. All the gears work but it won’t let me go in 5th, it feels like it’s almost there but won’t click into place. Reverse is a bit hard to go in but no 5th gear. Im just hoping I don’t have to remove the trans again

Sometimes the gears don't want to mesh properly and the trans just needs to rotate a bit. Usually disengaging the clutch is enough, but if your new clutch/flywheel combo isn't disengaging, that might be the reason. Are you working the clutch when running through gears? Did you mess with the hydraulics at all? What brand of flywheel and by chance you take measurements of the step beforehand?

dwb said:

Sometimes the gears don't want to mesh properly and the trans just needs to rotate a bit. Usually disengaging the clutch is enough, but if your new clutch/flywheel combo isn't disengaging, that might be the reason. Are you working the clutch when running through gears? Did you mess with the hydraulics at all? What brand of flywheel and by chance you take measurements of the step beforehand?

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I’m pressing the pedal down and I’m running through the gears. I did not touch anything related to the pedal like the fluid or alignment or anything. Just removed the bracket at the top of the transmission. For the flywheel I have a 11lbs xtd flywheel. I unfortunately did not measure the step beforehand

Do you have the shift cables bracket reattached to the top of the tranny? If not it can move while shifting and allow the inner core to get longer/shorter affecting shifting.

I haven't heard great things about xtd, mostly just cheap ebay stuff. I'm not saying that's your problem but I'm not saying it's not your problem either. At this point I would fill the trans and verify everything that's accessible - all your trans bolts are tight, shift cables installed properly, etc. and test how it works with the engine running. Just don't force any gears or try to drive if it feels like it's dragging. At that point, if it's dragging, bleed out the hydraulics and maybe tweak the master cylinder push rod for more travel and retest.
You can also snap a pic of your resting clutch fork position in the trans cutout where it meets the slave rod and post it up here - that might give us some clues before you really start digging in.

luv2rallye said:

Do you have the shift cables bracket reattached to the top of the tranny? If not it can move while shifting and allow the inner core to get longer/shorter affecting shifting.

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I have it attached at the top, all I did was unbolt it and put it back on how it was when I unbolted it. I noticed the bracket can move back and forth and I can tighten it while it’s tilted forward or when it’s tilted back idk if that affects anything

dwb said:

haven't heard great things about xtd, mostly just cheap ebay stuff

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Facts - cheap - but crazy reliable use XTD on all my cars.

OP disconnect your shifter cables and manually shift it from trans with engine off
Just to verify

You may also need to bleed clutch a lill more

DumbtruckDSM said:

I have it attached at the top, all I did was unbolt it and put it back on how it was when I unbolted it. I noticed the bracket can move back and forth and I can tighten it while it’s tilted forward or when it’s tilted back idk if that affects anything

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If the cable casing is allowed to move while shifting (because it's not held firmly in place by its bracket), that can move the inner cable inside the casing which will move its shift lever (or prevent it from moving far enough) which might be your 5th gear shift problem. It doesn't take much movement.

Okay so I took the 5th gear cover off and looked at everything, it looked like it wanted to go into 5th gear but the fork didn’t slide back enough. So I grabbed a rubber mallet and whacked it like 2 or 3 times and now my 5th gear works. Now I have a new issue where I was going to test drive it and now the car won’t go into any gear and reverse grinds when I try using it

Your clutch isn't releasing. Have you tried bleeding the hydraulics?

DumbtruckDSM said:

Okay so I took the 5th gear cover off and looked at everything, it looked like it wanted to go into 5th gear but the fork didn’t slide back enough. So I grabbed a rubber mallet and whacked it like 2 or 3 times and now my 5th gear works. Now I have a new issue where I was going to test drive it and now the car won’t go into any gear and reverse grinds when I try using it

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Hopefully that’s from a bad or badly bleed slave or master

You whacked the fork ?! Hopefully you didn’t cause this issue by whacking the 5th gear assembly.

miliman13 said:

Hopefully that’s from a bad or badly bleed slave or master

You whacked the fork ?! Hopefully you didn’t cause this issue by whacking the 5th gear assembly.

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Okay so I adjusted my clutch pedal, adjusted the rod, and bleed the clutch master cylinder and my car still won’t go in gear when it’s running. I did notice that when I tried to put it in gear the car started to roll forward and the rpm’s started to drop a little. The fork at the bottom is leaning towards the passenger side

Fork should be on driver's half of center (unfortunately this requires pivot ball shims):
And: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/extended-slave-cylinder-rod-question.443848/#post-153059797

But first read "Step Two:" to complete proper clutch bleeding here: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/clutch-will-not-disengage.460266/#post-153268772

here’s an image of it. So it something worn in the trans? I only replaced the clutch and fly wheel I didn’t touch the fork and all the other stuff because I assumed since it worked before why not after the clutch and flywheel replacement?

That fork is definitely too far to the passenger side. Either the geometry is incorrect (fork bent or severely worn, trans not seated against the engine block, throw out bearing incorrect/broken), there's "pump-up" pressure from the slave, or last but not least, the flywheel step height is incorrect - it's not always guaranteed a new flywheel will be machined properly.

This is a good sign

Chances are your trans is butter smooth
But as stated that fork is to far over it should be near center, it’s probably bent if it’s OEM, you will have to drop tranny - I just did it recently sucks but w/e.

Never miss an opportunity to install a new OEM TOB.