Much Needed Win...

I've been working on little things lately. Since the Shootout, I've noticed some power hesitations (that I'm still looking into), and fixing boost leaks. Thanks to DustyLandrum, I finally got new throttle body gaskets from AO Customs. Even bought a new silicon gasket for my turbo j-pipe since I blew that gasket out at the Shootout. Turns out one of the bolts backed out and left the engine bay. Replaced those three gaskets and installed the FMIC that came with the car. Just had to get a few extra pipes to make it work out. Repositioned my oil cooler to accommodate the pipe routing, and will finally get the cooler lines actually connected with my next oil change. I changed my oil as well, for the first time since dropping in the engine. I have around 220 miles on the engine, and the oil came out pretty clean. I haven't opened up the filter yet though. Went on a test drive after getting the new gaskets and the FMIC installed and I'm still having the weird power hesitation. Normal driving seemed fine though. At stop lights though, the idle was surging quite a bit. So today I decided to replace the BISS and its o-ring. Already had new ones so I figured why not. While letting the car warm up, I decided to connect my scanner to the OBD port. No real reason, just decided to do it. I finally got it to communicate with the ECU! I just bought a new harness from another member here and won't have that until this weekend, but this proves the harness does work, just need to figure out why it hasn't until now. Found out I have 3 trouble codes all related to idle control, so that explains a lot on its own. I ended up swapping the IAC and MDP sensors with spares I had. That along with the BISS have stabilized the idle for now with no surging. More later...

When it rains...

Been a few long months since an update has been worthy. Last time I managed to stabilize my idle, and then received the replacement wire harness for under the dash. To make the story short, it didn't quite go the way I was expecting. The harness came from a GS Spyder, which meant there were vehicle options that car didn't come with that mine did, such as the power mirrors and floor lights. I decided to swap those circuits from my original harness to the GS harness. Figured that would be simple, just unpin and repin, and it was simple. Got the harness installed, then found out the headlight and and wiper connectors were different too. The wiper connector was a simple connector swap. The headlight connector wasn't. My harness had 2 connectors, the GS harness only had 1. Kinda game over with that harness, and I couldn't even start the car with it fully connected. That was back in October, tonight I found out why it wouldn't start. Anyway, the 2 harnesses have been sitting in front of the car since October, with a new plan... Haven't had a lot of time for the car, and what time I made got interrupted, so it's taken time. I found someone local parting out a GST Spyder, so I bought the harness from him for $75. Got it installed tonight, still no start.... I thought it was a problem with the GS harness being somehow incompatible. Wrong... somehow the ignition fuse was blown. Swaped it out and started the car.

Unfortunately I got nothing but failure from that point. The diagnostic port STILL doesn't work, which was the entire purpose of changing the harness. Found out my clutch master is leaking on the pedal side of the firewall, and there's a leak somewhere on the transmission too, not sure yet if it's the trans or the clutch slave. Could be either... or both. I have an oil leak somewhere now too, but the biggest problem is I ended up with a puddle of fuel under the car, from the engine bay, and no wet areas anywhere on the fuel lines, rail, filter, nothing....

So the car somehow went to shit while sitting for the last few months doing nothing. The only possible spot I could see any fuel potentially leaking from was the #3 injector. But only because the connector looked clean compared to the other 3, but that doesn't explain the large puddle under the car, and there was no drips anywhere, or wet metal. For once I am completely confused as to how I'm leaking fuel.

Other than that, I'm now back to scratching my head about the diagnostic port too. Highly doubt 2 harnesses are bad, maybe even the original wasn't bad after all. No idea what more to try.

Man that is a bummer and believe me I have been there. The harness issues my only recommendation at this point would be to get out the wiring diagrams and just start checking continuity and what not at the diag port. Regarding the leaks, good luck...

Did you check the door lock fuse in the drivers footwell to make sure it’s good. That’s the fuse for power to the oobd port

Yeah, checked that fuse. The problem isn't really "connection", but rather communication.

spyderdrifter said:

Yeah, checked that fuse. The problem isn't really "connection", but rather communication.

Click to expand...

Sorry your build thread is long and I didn’t see it in the previous page

Is it a Dsm link ecu? What communication is it, you posted codes but haven’t specifically said the exact problem

No Link yet, didn't want to drop money on Link until I have the diagnostic port issue fixed.

The codes I was briefly able to get were all for idle control issues that I have since fixed, but are irrelevant to this issue. I have since put in another ECU and have the same issue on no communication. So I have now swapped ECUs, and the entire wire harness and have the same results. I need to look through my spare parts to see if I have a spare ETACS to rule that out for being my problem.

spyderdrifter said:

No Link yet, didn't want to drop money on Link until I have the diagnostic port issue fixed.

The codes I was briefly able to get were all for idle control issues that I have since fixed, but are irrelevant to this issue. I have since put in another ECU and have the same issue on no communication. So I have now swapped ECUs, and the entire wire harness and have the same results. I need to look through my spare parts to see if I have a spare ETACS to rule that out for being my problem.

Click to expand...

Have you made sure this isn’t a problem with the code reader you are using? Some of the newer scanners just don’t like old Mitsubishi data coding. Do you have an old basic code reader you can verify that the issue is present ?

chrysler kid said:

Have you made sure this isn’t a problem with the code reader you are using? Some of the newer scanners just don’t like old Mitsubishi data coding. Do you have an old basic code reader you can verify that the issue is present ?

Click to expand...

I have verified the scanner works in my truck, and 2 other cars. I've had the scanner since 2014 and it worked perfectly on past DSMs.

I haven't done much of anything since my last post aside from install the shifter I bought from FIBA and begin rewiring my gauges a new way. A couple weeks ago I did decide to mess with the OBD issue again and depinned the entire connector in order to reset all the pins for better contact. Still no change. Today I put the interior back in enough to drive down the road to O'Reillys and see if their scanner would communicate, and it did. It wasn't one like mine where it displays the codes on the scanner, but he had to take it back into the store and check that way. Regardless, he gave me a P1105 code which I already fixed after getting back home. I did also find my fuel leak about a week ago, and it was the #3 injector. Was just bad o-rings, and I bought a new set which also came in today.

Guess I'll buy another code reader and see if that works with this car. My current one still works on every other vehicle I plug it into, so not sure what's going on with it.