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Price on all thermal arc products just went up 5.5%!

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Hey guys, i am looking very heavily into replacing my torch on the longevity 200sx, The machine has an m16 male fitting on it, and the default torch hose is a female m16(x1.5?) 1 piece, why can i not just get an m16 brass plug and drill/tap the middle For whatever size fitting is on the end of this torch

Miller Diversion Direct Connect 25' WP 9 TIG Torch USA Weldcraft Compatible | eBay

as long as the flare end is tight against the machine, and the brass fitting carries the current through the hose, it will work right?

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Guessing that this is an m16, because of seeing it somewhere that i cannot recall, and that an m14 drain plug fit right into the threads fairly loosely.

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Yeah i was asking you. :) what tungsten and did you stop at all to reposition? Or go straight through.

I was using 3/32 thoriated tungsten. I had to reposition about 4 times per section.
The exhaust is 3.5" so it is pretty big.
Some more progress today.
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so i started making a home for my new miller. heres how its coming along so far.
 

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so the head of my legacy 17 torch ripped today exposing a broken copper element .im really glad i didnt strike an arch.

anyone else have this happen to them? im really disppointed as now im done for the weekend. =(
 
I'm shaving and polishing my valve cover. It's on it's way, but i have two -10 fittings for it. Any amperage range recomendations with the valve cover? Any tips on cast aluminium? I'm hesitating welding on it cause i havent done aluminium for a looong time and dont wanna make it look like ass after all this work. Take a look, lots of hours of sanding left.
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I'm a little farther than that so far :)
 
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so the head of my legacy 17 torch ripped today exposing a broken copper element .im really glad i didnt strike an arch.

anyone else have this happen to them? im really disppointed as now im done for the weekend. =(

Yeah that happened to me a few weeks ago, torch bodies are easy to replace an only around 30 bucks. A non flex head isn't meant to flex :p i picked up a flex so it wouldnt happen again.

Gamble i might be interested, the shop i got my new torch body from has this useless valve on there. Useless cause my machine is all auto post flow etc..
 
Yeah that happened to me a few weeks ago, torch bodies are easy to replace an only around 30 bucks. A non flex head isn't meant to flex :p i picked up a flex so it wouldnt happen again.

Gamble i might be interested, the shop i got my new torch body from has this useless valve on there. Useless cause my machine is all auto post flow etc..

part ## ?
 
Hit me up if you guys want it.
It's sitting in a box.

For the valve cover on the diversion 180, crank it it the max! Clean clean clean clean clean clean that valve cover. They have lots of oil deep in there. I would go over it with the torch for awhile and no filler, just let the AC clean it. Wire brush and go back and forth.
A map torch to start and brush if you have it. When you use the tig torch you will see how much shit comes up. You can never get cast aluminum clean enough, especially one that gets hit with oil.

Last time I did a water pump it was cast alumium I put it in my old powder coating oven at 425 for 45 min and then wire brush. Welded up great, but then again it never saw any oil.
 
It's pretty damn clean it's all gonna be sanded flush, my other problem is my fittings are anodized :/ and i know that shit doesn weld well, wire wheel get rid of it? And what do you mean to the max? I'm only on a 110 volt outlet. So what. Really like 100amps?
 
On 110v you won't be able to do it unless you have a lot of preheating
 
The diversion 180 will max at 125 amps on 110v which is not enough. I tried it when I forgot my welder. You need a lot more. Or it was my lack of experience. From what I remember I couldn't even get a puddle.

Anodized is fine. It will just turn a black color after your done. Don't breath in those fumes though.
 
Yeah i dont want a blac color, haha i think I'll wire wheel the anodizing off. I think I'll hold off for a while on welding it. I'll enjoy the soon to be nice n polished and shaved vC.

Probably a high duty cucle at 125 amps on 110 eh?
 
Duty cycle is how long you can weld in a 10 minute period. You need more amperage than the 110v allows.
 
What I did was after using a disk grinder with a flapper wheel on the letters I used a nice file loaded with buffing compound so the aluminum didn't clog it. That got me down to a pretty nice and flat finish then I finished up with a 2" scotch brite wheel on an angle grinder. For the AN fittings, they were annod but I took a wire wheel to clean them up like you said. And the prep for the VC was clean inside and outside with a wire brush and acetone. What really helped me was a super tight fit so there wasn't a gap between the fitting and vc. Pre heating will definitely help but I didn't have I do anything extravagant, just like if I was welding any other priece of AL. Don't forget to clean the welding rod and have a clean piece of tungsten. Good gas coverage and a lot of patience will be key. If all goes well it should look like this.
I've done a couple Vcs and they turn out good. These are two that I've done.
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